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Getting Soft On Me??
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Author:  FL RENNY [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Getting Soft On Me??

Ok so I have had my lift for about 5,000 miles now. And NOOOOO its not the front that I'm having the problem with for everyone who want to give me a big "I TOLD YOU SO" on the RRO-OTT lift (which I still LOVE by the way). I dont know if it's just me or what... but when I go over a bump, or hit a little something in the road, or maybe the rear wheels drop down into a little gap in the concrete that , that my rear feels "loose" or just not as stiff as it used to be. It's almost like a bottoming out feeling and sometimes sounds. If were to describe it in a couple of words they would just be "not as stiff, kinda weak." Anyone ahve any idea what could be the problem? I checked all the bolts on my shocks....and shot them up with a little WD-40 b/c they were squeeking annoyingly loud. .........thanks for the help!! :?

Author:  the1jferg [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:29 pm ]
Post subject:  New shocks?

Looks like ALL J's lift with Rancho's is worthy.

You need some good shocks. All others present a crappy situation!!!!

Since you are lifted, you need Monroe Reflex part# 911140 or the Rancho part# RSX17004. for 2002 dodge durango 4x4.

Better than the Rancho (to me), same company.

Swap them out once a month if you want because no shock last forever and everyone carrys them. Nothing but plus's ++++++

Rancho's have the same warranty.

Limited Lifetime Warranty

Tenneco Inc. warrants qualifying Monroe® products against defects and wear-out when used on private passenger cars and light trucks under normal operating conditions for as long as such purchaser owns the vehicle on which they were originally installed and TA continues to make the warranted product(s).

Qualifying Products
• Monroe® Reflex™ Shocks and Struts
• Monroe® Sensa-Trac® Shocks and Struts
• Monroe® Gas-Magnum® Shocks
• Rancho® RS9000X™ Performance Shock Absorbers
• Rancho® RSX™ Performance Shock Absorbers
• Rancho® RS5000™ Performance Shock Absorbers
• Suspension Components


Tenneco 's obligation under this warranty is limited to replacement of the worn-out or defective product in accordance with this warranty. Cost of removal and installation are not included, and any incidental and consequential damages are excluded under this warranty. This warranty does not apply to products which have been modified, improperly applied or installed on vehicles used for commercial or racing purposes.

To make a claim under this warranty, return the worn-out or defective product with the dated original receipt to the dealer from whom it was purchased or to a TA dealer for verification and exchange under this warranty.

OR,

Edelbrock (harder to locate like a Cooper tire) Great shocks.

Edelbrock IAS®, Strut and Extended Travel, Shock Absorbers Limited Lifetime Warranty Edelbrock Corporation guarantees for a limited lifetime each new Edelbrock IAS shock absorber including Strut & Extended Travel applications to be free from factory defects (except for finish and shock boot) from date of purchase, provided that the product is properly installed, subjected to normal use and service and that the product is not modified or changed in any way, negligence by customer or installer, or used for racing or competition purposes. Should a part become defective, it should be returned to the original selling dealer or shipped freight prepaid to Edelbrock Corporation. It must be accompanied with the sales receipt and a clear description of the problem. This warranty is void on shocks used in racing applications except for known, proven defects in material or workmanship. Edelbrock Corporation reserves the right to replace or repair the defective part and return said part freight prepaid. This warranty covers the replacement or repair of the product only and does not cover the cost of removal and installation. Damage or defects resulting from collision, improper installation, off-road use, road hazards or racing, are not covered by this warranty. The warranty for Edelbrock IAS shock absorber including Strut & Extended Travel applications extends only to the original purchaser only for the lifetime of the original vehicle in which it is installed

Goodluck

Author:  FL RENNY [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:55 pm ]
Post subject: 

So these Doechtech shocks aren't any good? The guy who installed them said they were great shocks. But if not they I will replace them. Anyone have a good place to order them from? Do they come with the bushings for my Renny? I'll install them myself as long they come with everything I need....for all the stuff everyone else around here does I better be AT LEAST able to replace my own shocks lol. Gotta earn my keep :lol:

Author:  the1jferg [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:59 pm ]
Post subject: 

They are a shock, but what make the situation real crappy is the ability to find them with ease.

You don't have to lift or take the rear wheels off to replace, just unbolt.


Have you ever read the reviews on them?

They ALL wear out.

Author:  FL RENNY [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 2:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

What makes it so difficul to replace? Lift the Jeep, support the rear end, remove the wheels, unscrew 4 bolts, new shocks, new bolts.....and your done right? If its difficult to do I'd love some input I didn't think it would take but an hour at the most. ....? :?

Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 4:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

You do not have to take the tire off, but it makes it alot easier. Ive had mine off and back on in under 30min before, thats with leaving the tires on.

2 bolts per shock, 1 top and bottom and your done. Nothing special.

Author:  FL RENNY [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thats what I figured, have you ever experienced what I am talking about on the rear Jeepster?

Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 10:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

FL RENNY wrote:
Thats what I figured, have you ever experienced what I am talking about on the rear Jeepster?


Well, not really. When I first put my lift on, I noticed going around curves that it felt very loose, like I was going to spin out in turn 2, Hehe. I figured it was where the lift raised the rear up more than the front taking weight off of the rear. After a while I guess the rear settled and it went away, or I got used to it.

Usually a bad shock doesnt feel "Mushy", they will bounce. Try going out and jumping/whatever it takes, in the back of the jeep. When ever I put my weight on the back then get off, it slowly comes back up, thats how a shock works.

Author:  hillcountrykj [ Wed Mar 01, 2006 11:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

FL RENNY wrote:
So these Doechtech shocks aren't any good? The guy who installed them said they were great shocks. But if not they I will replace them. Anyone have a good place to order them from? Do they come with the bushings for my Renny? I'll install them myself as long they come with everything I need....for all the stuff everyone else around here does I better be AT LEAST able to replace my own shocks lol. Gotta earn my keep :lol:


I have the same shocks on my liberty. working great so far. about 9k on my lift so far.

Author:  kickit_in4wheel [ Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:11 am ]
Post subject: 

I have the ranchos with old man emu springs. they feel alot softer than stock- that's the good part. when passing over speed bumps, there is no banging sound, they just absorb, and rebound very smoothly. They handle very nicely, virtaully no of body roll or wobbling. But shocks are supposed to absorb the "shock" of irregular terrain. Unless they are sticking, banging, or feel loose, I'd say they are working fine. I'll be happy to go on a test ride this Sunday on the trail and give you my expert opinion...

Rick

Author:  the1jferg [ Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:53 am ]
Post subject: 

All shocks wear out. I never said they were a bad brand. Some of the best stuff is the biggest pain to obtain (Ryme Bomb)

I like to be able to run into any parts place in America, just about, and get replacements.


JeepJeepster said: "thats how a shock works"

I was under the impression the slower they rise up, the more wore-out they are. Mine spring up like a horny 18 year old.


I always Jumped on the bumper and if it bounced more than twice (cold) - replace
after doing that test once, it should only bounce once.

Somewhere in the stuff below it talks about sound, feel, topping out, and more.

Here is some shock info:

Q: How many miles do shocks and struts last?
A. It's hard to say how many miles a shock or strut will last since the amount of work they do (converting suspension motion to heat) varies by road conditions; however, suggested that they should be inspected once a year, or every 12,000 miles. For example: Unlike a tire, which rotates a specific number of times per mile, a shock absorber or strut may compress and extend several times per mile on a smooth road, or several hundred times per mile on a very rough road. There are other factors that affect the life of a shock or strut, such as, regional weather conditions, amount and type of road contaminates, driving habits, loading of the vehicle, tire / wheel modifications, and the general mechanical condition of the suspension and tires.


Q: How do I know when my shocks or struts need to be replaced?
A. During a road test, a technician may notice an unusual noise originating from the suspension system. The technician may also notice that the vehicle exhibits excessive bounce, sway, or dive during braking. This could warrant additional inspection. If the shock or strut has lost a large amount of fluid, if it is bent or broken, or if it has damaged brackets or worn bushings, it should be repaired or replaced. Generally, replacement of parts will be required if a part no longer performs the intended purpose, if the part does not meet a design specification (regardless of performance), or if a part is missing. Replacement shocks may also be installed in order to improve the ride, for preventative reasons, or to meet a special requirement; for example, load-assisting shock absorbers can be installed for leveling a vehicle that is often used to carry additional weight.


Q: A technician pointed out that I have a light film of oil covering my shocks or struts, should they be replaced?
A. If the shocks or struts are functioning correctly, a light film of oil covering the top half of the working chamber does not warrant replacement. This light film of oil results when oil used to lubricate the rod gets wiped from the rod as it travels into the painted part of the shock or strut. (The rod is lubricated as it cycles in and out of the working chamber). When the shock / strut is manufactured, an extra amount of oil is added to the shock / strut to compensate for this slight loss. On the other hand, fluid leaking down the side of the shock / strut indicates a worn or damaged seal, and the unit should be replaced.


Q: I have replaced my shocks / struts several times within a few months due to excessive oil leakage. What is causing them to fail prematurely?
A. The main cause of oil leakage is seal damage. The cause of the damage should be identified and corrected prior to replacing shocks or struts. Most suspensions incorporate some type of rubber suspension stops called "jounce" and "rebound" bumpers. These bumpers protect the shock or strut from damage due to topping or bottoming. Most struts also utilize replaceable dust boots to keep contaminants from damaging the oil seals. To prolong the life of the replacement shocks or struts, these components should be replaced if they are worn, cracked, damaged or missing.


Q: What will happen if I don't replace worn shocks or struts?
A. Shocks and struts are an integral part of your suspension system. They work to prevent suspension parts and tires from wearing out prematurely. If worn, they could jeopardize your ability to stop, steer and maintain stability. They also work to maintain tire contact with the road and reduce the rate at which vehicle weight transfers among the wheels when negotiating corners or during braking.


Q: A service technician said my struts had failed and were leaking oil; however, my vehicle has gas charged struts. Could this be true?
A. Yes, gas charged shocks / struts contain the same amount of oil as standard hydraulic units do. Gas pressure is added to the unit in order to control a condition referred to as "shock fade," which occurs when the oil in a shock or strut foams due to agitation, excessive heat, and low pressure areas which develop behind the piston (aeration). The gas pressure compresses air bubbles trapped within the oil until they are so small that they do not affect the shock's performance. This allows the unit to ride better and to perform more consistently.


Q: I've had my shocks / struts replaced; however, my vehicle still makes a metallic "clunking noise" when driving over bumps. Are my new struts / shocks bad?
A. There is most likely nothing wrong with the replacement units, but a metallic "clunking noise" typically indicates loose or worn mounting hardware. If the noise is present with a replacement shock absorber, check that the mountings are tightened securely, and look for other worn suspension parts. Some shock absorbers utilize a "clevis" type mount, which must squeeze the sides of the shock's "mounting sleeve" very securely (like a vise would) in order to prevent noise. If the noise is present with a strut, then the upper bearing plate should be inspected and replaced if necessary. Old mounting bolts can stretch if over-torqued or if they have been loosened and retightened multiple times, resulting in a noise. If mounting bolts no longer hold their original torque, or if they have been stretched, they should be replaced.

Q: I recently had the struts replaced on my vehicle and now the coil spring rubs on the inner fender well when I turn the wheels. What is causing this?
A. When installing existing components onto a replacement strut, care must be taken to insure the upper spring seat is installed with the correct orientation to the lower spring seat or mount. The orientation of the upper spring seat determines the direction that the coil spring is bowed to allow for inner fender clearance. If the orientation is off, the spring may rub on the inner fender well when the wheels are turned or when the suspension is compressed.

Q: I am trying to install new shock absorbers on my vehicle; however, they are too short to install with the wheels hanging. Do I need longer shocks?
A. In most cases, no… many vehicles use shock absorber length to limit the suspension travel when the wheels are hanging in order to protect components from damage. For this reason, shocks should be installed with the vehicle suspension at normal ride height. Replacement could be performed on drive-on type ramps, over a mechanics pit, or on an alignment rack. Examples of components typically protected against damage from over-extension are: ball joints, tie-rod ends, 4WD half shafts / CV joints, U-joints, brake lines, ABS sensor lines, and height sensors. If the vehicle has been modified with an aftermarket suspension system, specially designed longer shocks are typically required.

Author:  Guyute1210 [ Thu Mar 02, 2006 4:19 pm ]
Post subject: 

Nice write-up ferg. That answered the questions I had...

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