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 Post subject: Jeep Liberty 2004 Transfer Case Problems PLEASE HELP
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 2:33 am 
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Here goes the story. when we were on vacation we parked in a parking lot and when we went to back out it started to bind up we pulled back in and tried to back out again and it did the same thing so we pushed on the gas harder and it made a pop and that was it and it was fine. so we had drove it for about 20,000 miles after that and it came winter time so when we went to use the 4 wheel drive it did not go in right away and it took it about 300 feet to kick in and we also noticed that the 4 wheel drive full time light did not iluminate so we knew it had a problem so we took it to the nearest dealer and they had it for about a month before we got it back and they went into the transfer case and replaced parts that were bent and broken. they could not get the full time lite to iluminate so they replaced the ECU and it still did not fix it. so when they finally figured it out they said it the computer did not recongnize the sele-trac transfercase and than they gave it back to us. they said they fixed it but i am not shure how long it should take the 4 wheel drive to engage i think it should be instant because when you are stuck you need it right away. so when i got it back i wanted to test it out and it still does not work like it did when we first got the car. and after we got it back at night when you turn on the dash lights it looks like they forgot to put something back on because you can see all the warning lighst glowing like there is a white light behind them so you can see what all of them say at night and before we took it there at night your not suppose to see what all the warning lights say and they are not all suppose to glow.

I REALLY NEED HELP ON THIS IT IS REALLY STARTING TO MAKE ME THINK THAT WE GOT A LEMON

THIS is a 2004 Jeep liberty Renagade With select-trac and auto trans and a 3.7 V6 engine.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:45 am 
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The transfer case doesn't engage instantly and you have to be moving for the hubs and such to lock up. It should be fairly smooth in and out of engagment though, no pops.

The dash is not that hard to remove, just a little time consuming. You'll need a phillips, flat head, a small socket set and a torx driver. Disconnect the battery so you don't short anything out. Have a cup or jar to store all of the screws and nuts in so you don't lose them.

Carefully pull out the plastic plugs from the drivers side grab handle to access the torx screws. This will let you pull off that panel to access the next set of screws, then the next panel, etc. You'll have to pop of the little bezel panel under and behind the turn signal lever to expose a couple more screws that will let you completely pull off the main dash cover. Use the flat head to carefully remove this bezel.

You should now be able to see all the screws and bolts needed to pull off the instrument panel. There is a cable harness to pull of the back and the little lights for the various indicators just come out with a turn. They are sort of like "Christmas" lights, you can get them for about 90 cents at the dealer.

Reverse to reinstall. Make sure that the dash lights are snug and the instrument cable is all the way back in.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 8:57 am 
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Not a lemon, just the way it typical operates. Mine has done it a couple times till I figured out what was going on. I know it sounds weird, but that is the way it goes, it more of a truck transfercase than the 4wd used in most other SUVs.

The select-trac has a tendy to pop like that if it is not shift correctly. Its a little tricky and odd, but onces you understand what is going on it is fine. The t-case case was still in part-time 4wd and that is why it was binding. It finally slipped out with all the drive train binding and made a pop.

The lever works by loading a spring inside the t-case The spring does the actually shifting in the select-trac models(Command-trac is different). So if you are in 4 part-time and you build up some drive-train tension from binding, then the spring doesn't have enough force to slip here out of 4wd. It usually slips out a little latter and that is typically with a bang due to the sudden release of tension.

Quick fix is made sure you have a nice straight section of road (100-200 feet) to shift in and out of 4 part-time. This prevents any drive-train binding and allows it to come in and out easily.

Another thing that works sometimes. If you where in part-time and it won't come out. You can tell by it still binding. Then put here into full-time and shift back into 2wd when you a nice strait section. Also, putting here into 4-low and back into 2wd works also.



Also as far as the light is concerned all it tells you is the position of the lever. It does NOT tell you wether you are in 4wd or not. The light can be on and not in 4wd; or the light can be off and you are in 4wd. The light is kind of useless, I know. The computer does not control the transfer-case or 4wd in anyway. There is simply a little transfer case position switch that tells the position of the handle. You can go unplug the little 3-wire switch and the light will never come on, but you can still go into 4wd just fine. The ECU does not control 4wd, all completely manually operated.



Finally, I'm sure you are aware of this but just in case.

Part-time is NOT to be driven on dry roads or anywhere where there is good traction. It WILL bind. I know what the owners manual says, but I would not use it on wet or slippery roads either. Only use it when you really worried about getting stuck or 4-wheeling.

Full-time was really made for wet/slippery/snowy roads. In Full-time you will not have any problems with binding, it will not bang, etc. Just make sure you shift up to full-time in one motion and not stopping in part-time.

In short, use full-time only unless you are stuck or four-wheeling.



4wd does not always in-gage instantly, especailly in select-trac. Need time for the gear to mesh. Normally it does happens instantly though. That is what they always say shift into 4wd before you need it. And in case you where not reading above, don't rely on the light to tell you anything.

Just one clarification on the post above, contrary to UPSLibby there are no disconnect hubs on the liberty. They are always connected.



SUMMARY: Your KJ is not a lemon. Use full-time only, unless you are really stuck or 4-wheeling. Part-time will bind even on wet or slippery roads, so only use it unless you are stuck. If you need to come out of part-time find a nice straight section of road(100-200feet) and shift out of it when moving straight. The 4wd light only tells you the position of the handle, not if you are in 4wd or not. The computer does not control 4wd in anyway. Make sure you shift into 4wd before you need it.


Last edited by Eddo on Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 12:50 am 
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Location: altamonte springs, fla. (orlando)
eddo....you're an asset to this forum....thanks for sharing what you know....here and in other topics...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 11:59 am 
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Wow Eddo, this is a great write up. This should be put into a sticky or a FAQ.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:13 pm 
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Eddo tries to be an overachiever. :lol:

Jk eddo, great write up!

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