Need some help, newly purchased KJ won't start.

Austerity · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:33 pm

I drive my KJ for a few hours this morning and everything was fine. Parked it for an hour and went to go to work. Turned the key, everything lights up, fuel pump makes noise, starter does nothing. Battery is brand new 12.9 volts.

Tried turning the wheel and putting it in neutral, nothing.

I had to take the wife's van, didn't have time to diagnose anything. I have a super busy week including building a home for the needy and can't go without the jeep. I would just like a quick run through of what I should look for and what I can do.

Any info is greatly appreciated.

Austerity · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:42 pm

Ok, so I pulled the battery and has it tested. It's good. Checked out the actuation rod. It's good. Pulled the shifter and disconnected the passenger side and then both wires in then. Nothing. Turned motor at starter. Nothing. Swapped relays, still nothing.

Any ideas?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:53 pm

Getting power to the starter soliniod?The main postive feed at the starter(large wire) should always be hot with battery voltage.The small wire at the soliniod should onbly have battery voltage when the key is turned to "crank" and that is it.

Austerity · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:05 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Getting power to the starter soliniod?The main postive feed at the starter(large wire) should always be hot with battery voltage.The small wire at the soliniod should onbly have battery voltage when the key is turned to "crank" and that is it.

I will check that tomorrow. I think it may be the ignition switch. I had noticed it was kinda funky, but then again I have only owned Toyota's so it is quite different. I had noticed that when removing the key I would turn it past the part where it can be removed to the part where the radio would come back on, and then the key comes out and I have to put it back in. I'm going to assume this is not normal?

I'm going to try that hot-wire trick at the relay to see if it will start, that should make it pretty positive that it is the ignition switch, correct?

lfhoward · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:15 pm

tjkj2002's idea about the starter solenoid getting power sounds good, and so does your idea about the funky ignition switch. The only other thing I could think of is to check the fuse for the starter solenoid. On my KK it is a 40 amp green fuse in position J17. Not sure if yours is the same.

Austerity · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:21 pm

lfhoward wrote:

tjkj2002's idea about the starter solenoid getting power sounds good, and so does your idea about the funky ignition switch. The only other thing I could think of is to check the fuse for the starter solenoid. On my KK it is a 40 amp green fuse in position J17. Not sure if yours is the same.

Thanks for that info. Does anyone have a PDF or file with the fuse/relay locations on a 2006? I don't have an owners manual.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:30 pm

You can download a PDF of the owners manual here:
http://www.jeep.com/en/owners/manuals/

It's great that Jeep is posting them online for free!

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:00 pm

Checking the power to the starter soliniod also tells the condition of the ignition switch.Though it has been known to happen where the plastic part that moves the ignition switch in the colunm has been known to break on KJ's,not a common issue but has been a few cases.

Austerity · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:24 pm

Replaced ignition switch and ignition actuator rod. Ignition actuator rod was broken, ignition switch replaced because I need to rely on this Jeep.

Jeep starts up fine now, but the key has to be turned ALL the way and with quite a lot of pressure to start it, near enough to bend the key.

Replace the key cylinder?

Austerity · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:29 pm

lfhoward wrote:

You can download a PDF of the owners manual here:
http://www.jeep.com/en/owners/manuals/

It's great that Jeep is posting them online for free!

I assumed I would have to pay for it and didn't even look! Thanks

Austerity · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:03 pm

I can't seem to find any information on this anywhere. What would cause the key to turn easily and normally in the lock cylinder, but require quite a bit of force in the last position to get the starter to engage?

It travels to the 4th position quite easily, but once it stops you have to actually put pressure on the key to get it to start.

Anyone?

Austerity · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:37 pm

Ok, so in the picture below of my ignition switch:

I loosed the one bolt that holds it down. I noticed that it twists a bit when the screw is fully tightened. I also noticed that if I twist the ignition switch slightly clockwise the Liberty starts without excessive force on the key. If I twist it slightly counter-clockwise, it will not start.

This switch is a brand new BWD, part # CS812 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... ion+switch)

- and -

The ignition actuator pin is a brand new Dorman 924-704 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... n+actuator)

Any idea what would be the proper way to fix this?

Austerity · **Posted:** Fri Jul 20, 2012 3:34 pm

Still having issues, it required far too much pressure on the key to start (although it would start). I solved the problem (in my eyes), along with the actuator rod problem by simply installing a push button starter. F$@K it.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:59 pm

Ingenious solution. :mrgreen:

Do you still need to insert the key to start it, or does the new button just bypass all of it? I'm thinking if there is a chip in your key, the answer would be yes.

Austerity · **Posted:** Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:53 pm

lfhoward wrote:

Ingenious solution. :mrgreen:

Do you still need to insert the key to start it, or does the new button just bypass all of it? I'm thinking if there is a chip in your key, the answer would be yes.

Yes, you still have to put the key in, but no need to get out the monkey wrench trying to get it to actually start. No longer do I have to worry about the key breaking, replacing the lock cylinder (if it binds up I can still get the truck started by having the key next to the cylinder), and no more worrying about the actuator rod breaking again. It's also kind of cool. I purchased one for an S2000 from the Honda dealership for $15..

Austerity · **Posted:** Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:53 pm

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Need some help, newly purchased KJ won't start.

Who is online