2002 radiator replacement question

kj-dec · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:48 am

My 2002 has finally exhibited the driver side tank leak. Next weekend I'm going to take a stab at replacing it; I really don't want to pay as much as the dealer and the local shops around here want for this task.

I've read the many topics here and the complaints about how poor the service manual instructions are and have a couple questions;

- There was one mention of having to remove the top support (with hood latch) by drilling out rivets. Is this really needed?

- How interlocked are the AC condenser and the radiator? I don't want to risk damaging the condenser or losing the refrigerant. Any tips/tricks on the radiator removal and reinstall would be appreciated.

My KJ has the HD cooling and trailer tow packages so I'll also be dealing with the extra cooler and the engine driven fan.

Thanks for any info. I wish this was going to be as trivially easy as replacing the radiator in my '90 Dodge or the old Challenger were (seriously trivial with all that room to work in...)

Jax2A · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:48 am

kj-dec wrote:

- There was one mention of having to remove the top support (with hood latch) by drilling out rivets. Is this really needed?

- How interlocked are the AC condenser and the radiator? I don't want to risk damaging the condenser or losing the refrigerant. Any tips/tricks on the radiator removal and reinstall would be appreciated.

My KJ has the HD cooling and trailer tow packages so I'll also be dealing with the extra cooler and the engine driven fan.

I did not drill out the rivets. I removed the grilll and took out all the bolts (4 across the top and two down at the bottom) and removed the top support and hood latch drop in one piece. Didn't remove the cable either. There was enough slack to put everything on top of the engine while I worked on the radiator.

A tab on each side of the condenser fit in plastic slots on the radiator at the bottom and two bolts through tabs at the top. My condenser was bad so I replaced both, so I can't comment on trying to remove the radiator without removing the condenser.

My KJ did not have the HD cooling/tow package, so mine was probably easier.

The NAPA radiator was a piece of crap. Trans lines stripped with almost no torque on the fittings. Advance Auto radiator was much better and used a brass fitting with aluminum threaded insert for trans lines.

Good luck.

kj-dec · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:09 pm

Thanks for that info. I had been planning on Napa but will look at alternatives.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2012 8:34 pm

All the aftermarket radiators are junk,went through to many and one with less then 1000 miles before it started leaking.Soluction was a new OEM radiator,sure twice the cost but twice the quality.

Another hint is to remove the battery tray and remove the airbag sensors off the radiator side supports(after disconnecting the battery and let it sit for 10+ mins).

kj-dec · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 2:57 pm

Can anyone provide the OEM part number for my radiator? I haven't been able to find it online. 2002 early model built 12/2001 or 01/2002 (we took delivery 2/2002 and it was a special order). HD cooling trailer tow package Limited with 45rfe automatic trans and selec-trak.

Thanks!

surfRenegade · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 5:34 pm

There is a good how to video on YouTube. I cant access here at work, but do a search on there.

kj-dec · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2012 6:22 pm

surfRenegade wrote:

There is a good how to video on YouTube. I cant access here at work, but do a search on there.

Thanks, I'll check for that!

kj-dec · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:23 pm

Found the part number for the OE radiator

52080118AA

Now does anyone know if there is a difference between the 52080118AA and AB units?

kj-dec · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:09 am

Found the following online:
Part number superseded
Old Part Number 52080118AA
New Part Number 52080118AB

Also the best price I've found so far for OEM.

Part Name Cooling Radiator and components Radiator W/ac Auto trans
MSRP $385.00
Core $0.00
Online Price $265.65

Is anyone aware of a better price for a 'factory' radiator? That beats the local dealer but its still a big chunk of change.

Thanks!

Rich

Doolop · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:35 am

I just did the same thing last summer. I had to go to NAPA as it was only 189.00 still running and works great. I also had the plastic tank fail on the driver side. When taking the fan out you have enough play that you can pull it out with only removing the grill and its mounts.

Sent by using tin cans and string

kj-dec · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2012 3:52 pm

A different local dealer has them for $260. Trade off tax (ridiculously high here in the awful state of Ill Annoy) against shipping and its close. So I have one on hold.

I haven't been able to locate a decent video on youtube (or other) for the radiator replacement; there are some that show a little, but the youtube search is so generic that I found great videos for water pump replacement when doing a search on 'jeep liberty radiator'' but not a _real_ radiator replacement video. Hopefully it won't be too difficult. If someone has a link to a video that actually shows something useful I'd love to see it.

One other item; it turns out everyone lists two different belts based on length, depending on the size of the pulleys (or one of them) on the tensioner. Apparently there was a TSB recommending replacement of an older 90mm pulley unit with a 76mm unit. I'm not sure which size is in the Jeep (its original) but will measure tonight. Assuming I replace the tensioner (I am planning on replacing the belt as a matter of course) should I specifically look for the smaller pulley unit and its associated belt? Or stick with the big one if it is what is on the Jeep?

Thanks

2002 radiator replacement question

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