papaindigo wrote:
It's not going to be easy but you need to pop the interior panel. IIRC there is a screw, behind a small trim plug, behind the door handle and one inside the hole in the top part of the arm rest. Remove both of them and then you are at the hard part as the door won't open. Normally you would use a trim tool or the universal substitute which is a 1-1.5" wide stiff blade putty knife to slid between the trim panel, usually at a bottom corner, to pop a couple of the trim pins loose (I typically work the putty knife behind the panel and then slid it along until it's adjacent to a pin before prying which takes some force. You can get an idea of where the pins are located with the putty knife on the other back door. Since you cannot come in straight from the side you will need to obtain or fab a tool like the putty knife but with about 1/2-3/4" of the tip bent at a right angle.
Once you get the panel off there will be a clip holding the lock/latch mechanism that needs to be removed. Remove the plastic water dam being careful not to contaminate or get that nasty black goo on anything as it stains wonderfully. Once that's done you should have access to pop the door open. I imagine you will need to replace the broken plastic regulator part (steiger performance is the best IMHO).
If panel removal intimidates you given the access issue I imagine a decent body shop can pop the panel for nominal charge, say 30 minutes labor.
Mine did this yesterday out of the blue. Window fell, door won't open. I removed the inner door panel, easy enough since I'd done it before to replace a speaker. Pulled the sound deadening white plastic away, and spent a few hours trying everything I could to get it to open, short of a torch or the jaws of life.
If looking at the inside of the door (driver side rear) then on which side is the mechanism that I need to pop the door open. I've tried all four sides to my knowledge, lubed it w/ WD-40, and I'm stumped.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.



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