Rack and Pinion help needed

jklanier84 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:08 am

Hey guys and gals,
So i dropped the KJ off for a post-wheeling alignment... I was informed they cant align it because the rack and pinion is shot.
I've been leaking power steering fluid for close to three years now so I don't doubt its toast.

$800-ish to replace it. ($350 parts, $400 labor, $50 alignment.)
And right after we blew the tax return$$$

I found a new rack for about $250 and I'm contemplating doing this myself...
Im pretty confident in my mech skills having done the lift, radiator, water pump, complete front and rear brakes, etc.

However I've never done this before so I would love some advice, tips, tricks, or someone whos got a good reason why i should pay someone else to do this...

{2002 KJ 3.7 4x4 140,000mi Ironman Lift}

Thanks in advance!

John3:17 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:25 am

Here you go

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=60454&p=670792

NAMoulton1 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1054

I just replaced mine and the power steering pump about 3-4k miles ago haha. Assuming KJ to KK rack and pinion is the same here's the How-To I wrote up:

viewtopic.php?f=104&t=81063

jklanier84 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:41 am

Sweet! thanks guys, just went out and crawled underneath. looks tight, but i feel like i can do it with a little help.

NAMoulton1 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1054

Extra set of hands helps a lot...mostly with getting the unit in and out haha.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:13 pm

If the 2005 has the same part, which I think it does, I'll sell you a used one with 88k miles for cheap. I sent you a PM

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:43 pm

removing the rack is a bit<h!!! plenty of info on the internet about how to do it properly.

John3:17 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:46 pm

PALiftedKK wrote:

removing the rack is a bit<h!!! plenty of info on the internet about how to do it properly.

See the above posts - they are how to's on not only how to do it properly but more efficiently. The method in the FSM requires more disassembly and time.

jklanier84 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2015 11:14 am

Rockauto had one for $150 plus a $75 core charge. I got that and a new inline filter. Anything else I should do while I'm in there?
My plan is to take the rack out while i wait for the new parts so i can take my time and not resort to the BFH method...

offroadohio · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2015 11:30 am

No bfh needed.

Remove electric fan.

Remove.oil filter.

Removed serp belt.

Remove inner tie rods from rack.
Unbolt rack, unhook lines, and gently remove it from the top.

You will rub the radiator a little just be gentle.
I've done 3 this way and it takes me about 45 minutes now in kjs.

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NAMoulton1 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1054

I never took my tie rods off, they never got in the way...just the steering input shaft haha.

offroadohio · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2015 1:39 pm

That falls under "unbolt the rack"

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jklanier84 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:22 am

UPDATE;
okay, got everything unbolted/disconnected, got the old one out through the passenger wheel well, which sucked, and im ready to work the new rack in.
im not excited about having to pull the hardlines off the brand new unit, but it aint gonna happen otherwise.
here's the deal, i dented the boots of the old one pretty bad getting it out, no rips or tears, but if makes me worried about the new one sustaining damage when it goes in....
thoughts???

jklanier84 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:57 am

nevermind, im done, 45minutes later... :BANANA:

offroadohio · **Posted:** Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:34 pm

Guess you did go my route. Takes 44 minutes total to do from the top

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JeepMorrison · **Joined:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:34 am **Posts:** 1236

offroadohio wrote:

Guess you did go my route. Takes 44 minutes total to do from the top

sent on tapatalk

Hahaha 44 mins. 8-)

WhitbyKJ · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:21 pm

Or you can be like and drop the cradle... But that's takes a lot longer!

I dropped the cradle for a different purpose mind you

Winkster · **Posted:** Sun Jul 05, 2015 9:52 am

I did it the hard way:

Last winter I slid into a curb. It popped the right hub, but worse, it broke something in the Rack & Pinion. I just got around to swapping out the Rack & Pinion. The dealer wanted $3,100.00 to do it with a new rack and said it is a 10 hour job. Firestone wanted $900.00 using a rebuilt rack and said it is a 5 hour job. A rebuilt rack with a lifetime warranty was $150 from O’Reily’s.

It will take 2 people 3 to 4 hours, constantly working, to do this, baring difficulties.

You will need 2 quarts of good power steering fluid.
You will need 1 quart of fluid for the front Differential.
You will need Never Seize.
You will need an open end 18mm wrench cut to about 5” in length.
You will need an impact wrench with associated sockets.

How I did it.

1. Remove the battery, battery support and the turbo hose on the driver’s side.
2. There is a hose under the battery connected to a bolt, pry it off carefully, this is the vent for the front differential.
3. I took off the front grill, bumper and head lights, but it can be done without doing this. I do recommend popping off the painted grill so you don’t damage it.
4. Jack the Liberty up, put jack stands on the frame where the notch is and remove the front wheels.
5. Get a large container to catch the power steering fluid.
6. Use your special wrench to remove the two large fittings to the Rack.
7. Turn the steering wheel left and right a few times to get fluid out of the rack.
8. Center the steering wheel and lock it with a strap to the brake pedal. THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!
9. Remove the half axels (disconnect the Rack ball joint from the brake assembly).
10. Note: You may be removing the strap on the steering wheel to get the axles out, but you MUST be aware of where center is and put it back.
11. Disconnect the front drive shaft from the front differential.
12. Drain the fluid from the front differential and remove the front differential.
13. Remove the bolt holding the steering linkage to the Rack and pull it up.
14. There are 2 LARGE bolts, with nuts, holding the Rack in, remove them.
15. Slide the rack out the driver’s side.
16. Count the threads showing on each end of the rack and write on the box of the new rack.
17. Put each end of the Rack in a vice and remove the ball joint and retaining bolt.

Reinstall is exactly reverse.

1. Note: the fittings that go into the Rack are different sizes.
2. Note: Max Torque on the fittings going into the Rack is 20lbs.
3. Note: Make sure you put new O-rings on the fittings. If you didn’t get new O-rings with the rack, take one off and get them.
4. Make sure you follow the instructions that came with your rack to get air out of the Rack.
5. Make sure you put fluid back into the differential.
6. Take it to get an alignment ASAP.

Notes:

1. I took this opportunity to change from hardened steel bolts holding the drive shaft on to stainless steel bolts.
2. I used never seize on all bolts. None of the bolts need locktite.

offroadohio · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:32 pm

Wow that is alot.of.work that way

Rack and Pinion help needed

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