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3/8-24... on the front, without a doubt...looking at a package of bleeders as I type this...I just bought regular bleeder screws to replace the speedbleeders I put on less than a year ago.. Although, I'll have to say they were not the name brand Russel Speedbleeders they were Dorman....I thought they were great the first time I used them...I had to replace a brake line, due to it rusting, and coming apart where the hard line at the caliper joins soft line...I've had both of my factory brake lines come apart at that junction...not due to abuse...the hard line rusts under the soft line...When I replaced the passenger side line, and tried to bleed the brakes, nothing would come through the bleeder valve. In less than a years time the check valve in one of the Dorman speedbleeders was seized....I can't say anything about the quality of the ORIGINAL speedbleeders by Russel...When I couldn't bleed my brakes I thought I had some serious issue...turned out to be simple...Seems like I paid $12 for the Dorman version of speedbleeders, and I just bought a new pair of regular bleeder screw for $2.13....Unless you need new bleeders, I say save your money...slip a piece of hose over the bleeder screw, slide the other end into bottle with enough brake fluid to cover the end of your hose / tubing through a tight fitting hole in the lid...don't screw the lid on tight...the air you're bleeding out has to go somewhere...loosen the bleeder, pump the brake pedal, make sure your master cylinder doesn't go dry, and that your home made one person bleeder hasn't filled completely full, and is spewing brake fluid all over your driveway...
_________________ Black '05 Renegade. Front suspension: Frankenlift, Moog HD LBJ's, Audiboy cut CV's Rear suspension: OME 948's, 2 extra upper ISO's, Rancho RS 5000 shocks. 31X10.50X15 Duratrac's/ProComp 152's ARB bumper, Mopar skids, JCR stage III's, Reese hitch with tractor lights, Champion shackle insert, "homebrew" on board air, 1000 watt inverter
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