Year? Miles? The rotor will only need to be reaplaced if it shakes when braking. I would change the caliper and call it a day.
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| Front Right brake hot n smokin HELP http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9484 |
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| Author: | MattyMac1 [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Front Right brake hot n smokin HELP |
Hi,Yesterday my wife was driving home from work and she said she started smelling smoke and the steering was acting funny like it was pulling to the right.. anyhow i told her to pull over and i would meet her. i got there and all i could smell was burning brake pad. the front right wheel was hot and the smell was strong. i hopped in and put it in drive. I could go forward and backwards but there was some real resistance there from the rt front. It wasn't locked on to the rotor but it was definitely squeezing it without toching the brake pedal. She was in traffic for a while coming out of Boston real bad stop n go stuff. I took the wheel off and the rotor cool down some and then tapped the caliper a little top loosen it. threw the tire back on and drove it home slowly about 1/2 a mile to my house.now its sitting in the drive way. Do you think the caliper needs to be replaced or the rotors and pads? the rotors do look pretty rusty on the inside. the pads look like they have plenty of meat. i was thinking the rotors could be warped and when they get hot are expanding a little and making the pads rub when the brake isn't applied.Let me know what you thin cause i need to fix this myself ASAP.. I refuse to bring it to a shop.. |
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| Author: | Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Year? Miles? The rotor will only need to be reaplaced if it shakes when braking. I would change the caliper and call it a day.
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| Author: | 4wdParakeet [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
but keep in mind that the rotor was probally super heated which could have warped it. Mopar sells a "Make it new" kit for about 150 and comes with new pads rotors, hardware. If you replace one side of the pads replace them both BTW. Rotors too. It's not hard to replace any of that though. Parakeet |
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| Author: | MattyMac1 [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
2003 Renny w/ 53k. not sure if they have ever been replaced before. But the pads do have meat on them.looks like the outside has more than the inside though... We have had a lot of rain and flooding over the past 2 months up here in Boston. i have gone through a lot of 2ft plus deep water on the streetsThough that might have something to do with it?. Next question, Can i get by just replacing the one caliper opposed to both. i would be changing the the rotors and pads on both sides so they should be working evenly? Do calipers seize and then release like that? that's why I'm wondering if its not the caliper? I thought when a caliper seizes its stuck on there and won't even let the wheel spin at all no? Thanks,,, |
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| Author: | PitViper [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I know this sounds funny but if all else fails change the break hose. This happened to my 93' gmc truck. After changeing the calipers on both sides I still had the problem. then somone told me that the inside liner of break lines sometimes collapse making the caliper stick. |
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| Author: | Sean [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 10:42 pm ] |
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there are some posts on here about sticking calipers... mine is one, they replaced the rotor, pads, and brake lines under warranty at 21K |
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| Author: | Jeep Dawg [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yea man, sounds you need to replace the caliper, and I would also go with new rotors both sides. |
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| Author: | 05kjrenny [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
mines a 05 renny replaced both rear rotors and pads and calipers in rear at 12,000 miles due to them sticking, if the pads got smokin hot it may have made them brittle |
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| Author: | Jeepjeepster [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
PitViper wrote: I know this sounds funny but if all else fails change the break hose. This happened to my 93' gmc truck. After changeing the calipers on both sides I still had the problem. then somone told me that the inside liner of break lines sometimes collapse making the caliper stick.
Ive heard this before. Crap gets stuck in the line and doesnt let the fluid back out. |
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| Author: | MattyMac1 [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi, i have the right front caliper off, how should i go about bleeding the lines. do i just have to worry about the front? Also can i clean those pins on the caliper mount that go in and out?thx |
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| Author: | WV(0)IIIIIII(0) [ Thu Jun 15, 2006 4:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
To bled the brake lines you will need a small probably 3/16 wrench and start from the right rear brake caliper. (Only after you have reinstalled everything, including the caliper on the rotor) Have someone pump the brakes until they are solid and hold the pedal. Loosen the bleder and let the fluid come out. Tighten the bleeder back up before the brake is released. Do this about 2 to 3 times per wheel. Bleeding order should be right rear, left rear, front right, front left. Do it in this order until the pedal is firm on the first push. Hope this helps. The pins are supposed to have grease on them to help with friction. |
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