suspension ?

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:47 pm

Is it a body lift i see? there. about 1 inch worth?

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:49 pm

Nice knuckle Al! :wink:

gone_jeepin · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:53 pm

i remember Al saying one time that he fab'd up a "carriage thing" so that he has a 5 inch lift but engine and stuff was only at like 3 inches of lift

kj's are unibody so u can't have a body lift

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:02 pm

It looks like you have lowered the UCA mounting point for one...and have lowered the subframe (engine cradle) with a square tubing thing-a-ma-bob. The upper and lower CA's are definitely closer together than stock..so you probably lower the cradle an inch or so and the UCA mounting point 2.5" or so...

Do you think the RockKrawler lift in this thread would work ( being that it is 3+"s ) without relocating and lowering? Seems like alone it would put too severe an angle on the CVJoints and a stock UCA would be resting on the strut at rest.

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:08 pm

Right lower the UCA so that you can raise the body. Right? Someone help me out here, am I looking at this all wrong?

I see a space between the frame and the lower crossmember that I dont see on any other pics, maybe in the other pics it is just covered up.

Jeepin Al · **Posted:** Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:44 pm

The lower arms/engine cradle was lowered by 2 inches. The upper a-arm mounts were than lowered by 3 inches. This only can be done when the 2 x 2 inch 1/4 steel tube is in place. The unibody is cut to house the a-arms. Round holes are cut next to the a-arm mount to access the bolts. Nuts are welded to a-arm mount. The mount is a made out of 1/8 plate and essentially makes a box that is welded in place.

So what we have is the cradle, with engine, diff, rack, and shafts all lowered 2 inches. Than I have the frankenlift (2.5") and than the rock krawler clevis (3 to 3.5 inches). Therefore I figure I have around 5.5 inches of frontr lift. The back has 6 inch LJ coils.

The system work great today, we were out on High Blue trails, which are for locked and 33 inch tires only. I beat the living cr** out of the skids and lower a-arms on some really hairy rock sections. I did pop a rear spring, the upper tie broke at full flex. The top of my rear tire at full flex, spring un-attached can fall even with my rock rail, and let the uncompressed 16" spring pop out.

One rock out cropping was about 2.5 feet high, you needed to mount it crawler over the top and fall off the other side on to a bunch of smaller rocks, really intense and stress full. I did fall off one big rock into a tree, and dented my rear door a little.

What a day!!!

Very good guys! You guessed right! Very good Grass hopper!

And yes I think the rock krawler lift should work fine! Jeff Daniels Jeep has taken the CV joints apart and shorten them a little, eliminating the binding on the inside CV joint. That work will really support the rock krawler lift.

Al

Jeger · **Posted:** Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:07 pm

Nice work Al, so did dropping the Upper Control arm mounts eliminate UBJ contact with the front coil, it looks pretty close in the pic even with your arms on there.

Jeepin Al · **Posted:** Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:15 pm

I don't think it totally elinimated the contact, but it will hit the Daystar puck section that sticks out as a bump stop at full droop. And lowering the arms eliminated all the bump steer I was having.

Al

Jeger · **Posted:** Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:24 pm

I would say thats a good trade, So where's the pics of this beast?

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:33 pm

Was thinking about this lift and figured out it would be one of the easiest to remove if needed for warranty work. Just save the stock sway bar links and clevis and the rear springs.

suspension ?

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