PACKAGE!!!

riptricket · **Posted:** Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:29 am

I have a huge and heavy package in the garage at home...
On saturday I will be opening it and installing them!!!

OH YEAH, THEY ARE MY ROCK LIZARD SUPER SKINK SLIDERS!!!!!!!!

MNKK · **Posted:** Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:30 am

congrats!

WoodysKJ · **Posted:** Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:57 am

Hey those were mine they got shipped there by mistake.

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:19 am

Can't wait to see a picture of it installed.

Hey pretty neet looking avitar you got there. :lol:

riptricket · **Posted:** Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:30 am

yes, it was a member on here that did it for me!

bbo · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2005 5:17 pm **Posts:** 382

[quote="riptricket"]I have a huge and heavy package in the garage at home...
On saturday I will be opening it and installing them!!!

[color=green][size=24]OH YEAH, THEY ARE MY ROCK LIZARD SUPER SKINK SLIDERS!!!!!!!![/size][/color][/quote]

I guess I have one at home too !!!

ooh yeah ... I am out of town till tuesday night ... :(

riptricket · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:51 am

my bro and i spent a little over 4 hours drilling and fitting the drivers side rail. still gotta do the driver's side on wednesday, and then have them line-xed!!! and done!!

Rock Lizard · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:03 am

riptricket wrote:

my bro and i spent a little over 4 hours drilling and fitting the drivers side rail. still gotta do the driver's side on wednesday, and then have them line-xed!!! and done!!

I guess you got it figured out and no problems after the call then? Wow, four hours for one side, I remember those days. First time takes forever. Troy and I have it down to about 1.5 hours start to finish now for the 05-07 (stupid plastic rocker covers) and about 1 hour for the 02-04. :twisted:

Dje Ryu · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:59 am

I guess I came out alright. Mine only took about 1 hour per side. Yes, I know I still need to get those pics for you, Marty. I might get that done today but, I gotta warn you, the salt has not been nice to them this winter.

riptricket · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:22 pm

well yes, we had some trouble figuring it out, b/c of the small design change on the feet that connect to the frame, and then my bro kinda messed up the 7 holes to the pinch weld, not to say that your work wasn't excellent, but you know how the drill wanders (about .3 mm).

also we had a time constraint b/c i have two projects, 1 paper and 2 tests (business law and real estate practice) to study for, so i had to get back today, but we got one side done.

Had a quick question too... on the plastic that goes back over the sliders, do i need those black things that hold the plastic in? b/c we broke every single one getting it off?.? and i know that i have to cut some of that plastic, but do you have any close-up pics of how to cut that plastic piece?

Thanks for the help!!! I LOVE YOUR WORK MARTY!!!!

Rock Lizard · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:43 pm

Throw those plastic spacer things away. Here are the old instructions. Not much for changes on the new design, just put the frame rail mounts between the overlapping steel and everything else comes easy.

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/instructions.htm
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/i ... s_05kj.htm

riptricket · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:00 am

how do the self-tapping bolts work? do i drill the hole a little smaller and then torque the hell out of the bolt to get it in??? i am confused on that!

Rock Lizard · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:24 am

riptricket wrote:

how do the self-tapping bolts work? do i drill the hole a little smaller and then torque the hell out of the bolt to get it in??? i am confused on that!

Drill the hole to 5/16", then use a ratchet and 9/16" (?) socket and screw the bolts in, they will tap the hole. Just take it slow and don't over torque them. When they are close to seated, just use one hand to torque them down and when they are nice and snug, good enough. If you overtorque them, then they will strip the threads. Not sure if you saw my links above with the install instructions.

Rock Lizard · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:28 am

Did you drill the holes in the unibody for the self tappers yet? If not, use that spring loaded center punch I included to mark your holes, start with a 1/8" drill bit for pilot holes, then drill with 5/16" bit. This will keep the bit from wandering. To get the holes about the right spot, the bottom edge of the rear mount will be about 3/8" from the bottom of the unibody.

riptricket · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:32 am

yeah we drilled it with the 5/16, so now what do i do? i have all the holes drilled, so now do i get it line-ex and then put the first 7 on the pinch weld on and then the self tappers on?

Rock Lizard · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:37 am

riptricket wrote:

yeah we drilled it with the 5/16, so now what do i do? i have all the holes drilled, so now do i get it line-ex and then put the first 7 on the pinch weld on and then the self tappers on?

So, the seven pinch weld holes are drilled, and the unibody holes are drilled and tapped? Sounds like a quick shot of some spray paint in the holes to prevent rusting, get your sliders lined, and bolt them up when done. You did do a test fit with all the bolts and tappers to make sure all was good for final mount? If all that is done, finish her up and go scrape that liner off on a big rock. :twisted:

riptricket · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:39 am

we didn't put the self tappers in... we are still confused on how they work? do we drill the hole to 5/16's and then on final install just wrench them in? is that all we do?

Rock Lizard · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:47 am

riptricket wrote:

we didn't put the self tappers in... we are still confused on how they work? do we drill the hole to 5/16's and then on final install just wrench them in? is that all we do?

Yep, final hole size drilled to 5/16". The self tappers are 3/8". Stick the end of the self tapper in the hole, and wil good pressure, slowly screw them into the hole. The very start of it will feel strange and the bolt might move around a little while trying to go in straight, but keep it straight as possible, and once the first threads get cut, then it goes pretty smooth from there. You can does this easier with the sliders out of the way, but atleast make sure you have the holes in the right spots to line up with the mounts. Not sure I can explain it any better. For practice, you might just find a spot somewhere else, like in the bottom of the unibody where it is the same thickness (lilke below where the other holes will be tapped), and do a practice run to get the idea, and you don't end up messing up one of the mounting holes. If you mess up or brake a self tapper, don't sweat it, I have plenty more I can send.

USPLibby · **Joined:** Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:29 am **Posts:** 377

I used a 3/8" thread tap that my dad had in his garage. It was easier and it makes a clean threaded hole especially in the thick part of the frame up front. I used an eight point socket to drive the tap.

PACKAGE!!!

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