My Jeep seems to be having too many problems. I get a clanking noise from the front end when I engage 4x4. I also get a rubbing noise from the rear when i turn forwards or reverse at all times. I have been having electrical problems and cooling problems. I was going to fix it up and just sell the jeep but now i'm worried it needs a new transfer case. I have also taken the jeep back to stock because of the problems i had with the lift and i was planning to sell the vehicle in order to buy a rubicon. But every time i fix something, something else breaks. Arrgh!

sounds like it's time to get the insurance wire crossed

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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3009803
2004 Limited (Rescue Jeep)
2 1/2 daystar lift 235/70/16
{Electric Stuttertone Emergency Horn}
strobe leds front and rear
2 way VHF radio (kenwood)
westin brush guard+ Hella 500's w/ 100w 3000k bulbs
back seat removed and shelf added
rolled and totaled dec 4 2010..(drunk driver)

Yeah, its just frustrating since i seem to be finding more problems then i'm fixing. The front end noise sounds like something is clanking or loose but it only does it when it is in 4x4. I'm starting to think maybe it is a CV issue. If it was a U-Joint issue then it would vibrate going down the road right? While driving on gravel it sounds like something is loose but only when in 4x4.

someone on here was talking about a clip that holds he axle in maybe check it out

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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3009803
2004 Limited (Rescue Jeep)
2 1/2 daystar lift 235/70/16
{Electric Stuttertone Emergency Horn}
strobe leds front and rear
2 way VHF radio (kenwood)
westin brush guard+ Hella 500's w/ 100w 3000k bulbs
back seat removed and shelf added
rolled and totaled dec 4 2010..(drunk driver)

no joke i seriously had this problem like a week ago. i thought it was my t-case about to shoot thru my floorboard! i pulled it into my shop and lifted it up only to realize that i hadnt done a very good job cleaning out the mud from around the drive shaft and muffler. it was rattling everything up under there. just something to check cause like i said, thats about what mine was doing. hope it helps. bad noises lick

Here is that clip you are talking about. It was posted by Troy (tjkj2002)
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=28922

I am having a big freaking problem too the last few months. CV's DS F+B Rear Diff's

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2003 KJ Sport JEEPZILLA Edition
American Flag flying high
Frankenlift removed =(
Moabs and plenty of pin striping
Flexable people don't get bent out of shape!
Current MPG 6" to a gallon
L.O.S.T. # BL065211
www.ItAtYourHome.com

The rubbing while turning could be realted to the tire size... With an all stock KJ - I have no rubbing issues. [just a random thought]

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02 Liberty Limited
Silver Outside & Taupe Inside
Heated Seats, Sunroof & Infinity speakers
USA Spec I-Pod adaptor, Mopar Sub, Garmin GPS
Tow Package, Select-Trac
Rock Rails, Tow Hooks

with the vehicle jacked up I ran it in 4x4 mode. The noise seems to be coming from the drive shaft entering the t-case. I even saw the drive shaft 'skip'. There is also torn rubber on the drive shaft near where it enters the t-case. Does this sound like a drive shaft and t-case issue or just one?

About the rear. I'm not sure what would cause this but with the vehicle jacked up i turn one rear tire and the other one turns with it. I tried breaking the tires loose and could only get it to break a little and the rubbing noise was heard then. It's like i have a locker on but it is open (or at least that's what i thought). Is this a rear diff problem? I'm not sure what would cause this issue.

Here is a picture of my rear diff that i took recently when i changed the fluid. It was making noises before i changed the fluid. Does it look like an open diff or a trac-lok? I thought it was open because i used to be able to move one wheel without the other one locking up. I'm wondering if it just needs friction modifier or something.

When you had it jacked up and turned the rear wheel, did they turn in the same direction?
Same direction = Track Lok
Opposite direction = Open diff.
You should have a green tag on the driver's side of the rear axle tube that says what it is.
If you have a Track Lok you'll need the friction modifier for it.

I don't remember what direction it used to turn but right now they both turn in the same direction. So it is a trac-lok then? Holy Crap Batman, i guess i better get some modifier in there.

I even saw the drive shaft 'skip'. There is also torn rubber on the drive shaft near where it enters the t-case
Well there's your problem. I think I have the same problem. I thought I killed the transfer case last winter but maybe it is the slip shaft part of the front driveline. I will check mine tomorrow.

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

Here is a picture of the drive shaft going in. You can see the rubber piece is ripped there.

can you PM me the pic. I can't see it . The hosting site is blocked for me.

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

My manual states that if the CV joints are damaged on either end of the front drive shaft then the entire front drive shaft needs to be replaced. Is this not too hard to do correctly or do i need to have a repair shop do that?

Easy job to replace the front driveshaft, and yes the boot looks torn from what you can see in the picture, that allowed dirt and water to enter and destroy the shaft, pull it out and see if you get the noise, bet you don't.
Check for the tag on the rear axle as well to make sure what you have back there.

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Tommudd and the others are correct on the front driveshaft. The rubber boot on mine going in to the transfer case was virtually gone when I took mine in to a driveshaft repair shop. Was getting some vibration issues. The repair shop told me they call these shafts "throw-aways" because they have to replace the whole unit. You'll want to get that repaired soon so you don't end up with transfer case issues with sand/dirt getting in with the rubber ripped. In my case the shaft was backordered, so I drove for a few days without it until the parts arrived. You should be able to tell if that is your issue by removing the shaft.

Also, if you don't see the Trac-lok sticker underneath, another way to find out is to visit your local Chrysler service dealer and have them print out your vehicle specs from your VIN number. It'll be a couple pages long and it will list the Trac-lok right in the spec list if you have it. That's what I did. Definitely want that friction modifier in there if you have the Trak-lock.

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2003 Jeep Liberty - Limited
2.5" Daystar Lift
BFG All Terrain 255/70R16 tires

If i take the front drive shaft off can i drive around without it and not cause dammage to anything else?

There is no sticker on the axle but the dealer told me that i indeed do have the trac-lok differential. I checked at Canadian tire for the friction modifier but could not find any. However i found some Quaker state Full synthetic 75W40 lubricant that says it is for limited slip differentials. Would this stuff work for the track-lok or would i still need to add the friction Modifier?

Also, the dealer wants $750 for a new front drive shaft. Does this sound normal to you? I read here that some have modified their front driveshaft to use u-joints and it is supposed to better. For $750 i was wondering if i could do this.

I'm not up on driveshaft prices, but you SHOULD get the friction modifier from the dealer. It's the real deal and it's what works for the Track-Lok.
I haven't heard of anyone using substitutes, but I wouldn't use any in my Track-Lok. The stuff from the dealership is only a few bucks.