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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:54 am 
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Liar Liar pants on fire... :oops: ...I made a mistake guys, the pinion you are looking at, the smaller one, is out of a late (86?) CJ Dana 30, the same as a YJ I believe.

I am looking into adapting the tubes (one side anyway) to a steel 30, but the real problem maybe is that the KJ may need the extra length to avoid driveshaft contact with something, as the exhaust, pan etc etc.

I have reinforced my front diff with a machined collar for the pinion, welded in place and a couple of plates, one of which is opposite of the side mounting bracket. 1/4 inch alum plate was welded on the diff.

I still have that Dana 44 I want to play with. I need to bring to a rear end shop to see if I can get flanges for it.

Image

Al

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:59 pm 
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Location: Harahan LA (the burbs)
OzLtd wrote:
jason thompson wrote:
I would try to use the standard 30 center and have some one build some outter tubes that will work with the IFS stuff
you would get the strength of the cast 30 center and never bend a tube also keep the smoth ride of the IFS

I do not think that you will be able to use the tubes from the 30A in the standard 30 center cause they will need to be welded in those little holes on the center and alum.


what 'tubes are you referrng to ? The D30a doesnt have any 'tubes' as such. ? Its a bearing and seal arrangement then into the CV's ?

upon looking at this pic, it seems clear to me that trying to do a steel D30 pumpkin 'swap-in', isnt going to work without alot of fab, time (and money if you have it).

I think the best bet is to get the D30a pumpkin strengthened up by welding in some more gusseting. There is plenty of space and areas that could be added too ? Around the pinion shaft area seems to be the weak point, so a cradle / brace welded on, in alloy would more than strengthen it. See the lines going East - West, you could add heaps of North - South lines to GRID it up.

Image



when I say tubes I am refering to the pcs. of alum that runs from the pumpkin to the passenger side
not much of one on the driver side but the end resualt would be the same


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 11:02 am 
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[ignore on] Anybody look at the pinion from a TJ? I seem to recall that when they first came out, the old gear sets wouldn't work because of a new bearing preload system. IIRC the newer TJ D30 required a longer pinion shaft. There may also be the issue of reverse rotation vs standard rotation. [ignore off] Just saw that the TJ had a SHORTER pinion than the older D30's and that's why there was initially an availability problem. Guess that won't help the Liberty!

Also, looking at that picture of the blown diff, sure looks like the failure point would be at the first pinion bearing. Looks like that when the front wheels stop suddenly, the pinion would climb down and away from the ring gear thus loading up the first pinion bearing up and out of the housing. By supporting the housing with a collar (like many have done) sure should help the problem.

Lee

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