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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:32 pm 
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do you have the spicer 35 axle or the chrysler 8.25? I know it says you have a 2002 but you never know. they are different seals.
Part # 16747 (ID 1.6140) (OD 2.5690) (Width 0.4330) (Chrysler 8.25)
Part # 16139 (ID 1.6880) (OD 2.5560) (Width 0.3750) (Dana/Spicer 35)

Is there an oem number on the old seal I could cross for you?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 12:58 pm 
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KJFROG wrote:
do you have the spicer 35 axle or the chrysler 8.25? I know it says you have a 2002 but you never know. they are different seals.
Part # 16747 (ID 1.6140) (OD 2.5690) (Width 0.4330) (Chrysler 8.25)
Part # 16139 (ID 1.6880) (OD 2.5560) (Width 0.3750) (Dana/Spicer 35)

Is there an oem number on the old seal I could cross for you?


Only numbers on the rubber parts are:

32488J

52070427a

J2332


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 1:05 pm 
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The only way I could tell with mine is call my friend at the dealership, he gave it to me, If your dealership is not that nice, give me the vin and I could check. They both have 10 bolt but one is more oval than the other.

www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 1:07 pm 
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from the pics, it looks to be the chrysler 8

I called another parts store, and I think that they have the seals I need.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 1:28 pm 
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Part# 52070427ab crosses to part# 16139(03-04 kj)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 3:12 pm 
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Thanks KJFROG! The guy at the parts store had already given me the '03 ones to try and they work like the originals.

Job is done, with about 50 pictures.

Should I do a write up?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 3:37 pm 
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Pic's would help anyone that has never done them

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 4:35 pm 
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Just did my axle seals just a few min ago,not hard only took about 30 min total,needed to change the rear gear oil anyway.You need to get the seals from a '03+ KJ with the 8.25 from Napa,they only list the d35 for the '02's and they won't work as warholamo found out.Sorry no pics.


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 Post subject: Project Documentation
PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 11:05 pm 
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So I am ready to do the left rear seal today. I get to the flat driveway (father-in-laws) and guess what:

Image

Right side has sprung a leak too. I had two seals anyway, and was going to do both, but what a coincidence. Jack it up and pop the wheels off.

Image


Trying to make sure that the wheel cylinder is not the suspect.
Looks pretty crusty there:

Image


Image

Yikes, the cleaner of the two:

Image

Lovely, looks like someone has been in here before me. Used a 1/2" socket to pull out all the bolts. Then pried off the bottom with a few bolts left in the top to drain the differential.

Image
Nice and crusty as well.

Okay, see the half-threaded pin in the center of the picture? That holds the bigger pin in the middle (you see the silver end as being round here) which runs through two gears. It is 5/16" head, very easy to remove.

Image

Once it is out, tap it out about a half an inch with a punch or similar, and with the tranny in neutral
spin the wheel hub in reverse to get to the back side where the silver pin is sticking out. Grab it with some pliers and yank it out. You may want to scribe it as to which way the pin is in to relation to the housing. You don't want to put it back in crooked. Once the pin is out, do not turn the axles, you will drop gears!

Image

Once the pin is out, walk around to the side of the Jeep, and kick the hub. You will likely hear a clink when the c-clip falls off the end of the axle into the differential housing. Do it on both sides. If they don't just fall off, they really don't require any effort to remove. Then pull out the axles.

Image

Pic of c-clip on axle

Image

Image

Image

Image

Well, here's the old seal;

Image

And the housing;

Image
Here now is my first issue. 2002 Liberty seal supplied by NAPA. Wrong. Pushed them in by hand.

Image

So I cleaned parts while I waited for a ride to get the right seals.

Image

Finally got the correct wheel seal. It is the 2003 seal.

Image

The 2002 seal is on the left, 2003 on the right.

Image

Image

Here's my cover bolts with the 3.73 tag.

Image

Ready to reinstall;

Image

Letting it get tacky;

Image

Done?

Before:

Image

After:

Image

Took about 3 hours of work for my virgin time. Would've took about 1.5 if I had the right parts. Better than paying a garage to forget my friction modifier.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:41 am 
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This is a super right up with all the pics. Thanks for taking the time to show everone else.

I think this should be moved to the technical section along with the other good stuff there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 2:36 pm 
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Real nice write up warholamo.Now I can see why you had such a stream of fluid leaking. :lol: :lol: I've never ever in my 25 years seen an axle seal rust completely out and leak at the casing instead of the rubber seal.This is definatly a new one on me. :wink: Someone must of done some water fording a time or two.Again; great write up,and thanks for taking the time to keep us posted. :wink: :)

Ron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:31 pm 
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You should see the rust in Newfoundland, happens all the time

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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2421676


Last edited by KJFROG on Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:03 am 
Hey, I just had to go back a bit...

I thought friction modifier was only required for clutch-type limited slip diffs? I'm no expert, but isn't that a normal open diff?

*EDIT*

Nevermind, I'm stupid. Just looked it up:P


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