I have a perfect condition front driveshaft for sale,63,000 miles on it,$100+ shipping.

Hey, if it's in 'perfect condition', i'm interested.

I'm having trouble getting the old drive shaft off. I took all of the bolts out. The front disconnects easily but the rear CV to companion flange is stuck together or something. It won't budge. I've tried pounding with a hammer. What am i doing wrong? I hope the transfer case is still good or i might be buying tjkj's old transfer case too.

It's in perfect condition,both CV joints are good and both boots are in perfect shape,no signs of cracking at all.Just let me know,it's ready to ship.Sorry the t-case is spoken for already.

As far as your old one being stuck on the t-case side that's from the heat build up from the cv being shot.Try a bigger hammer or get a big and long punch to hit right at the spot where it's supposed to seperate.

Just a side note
I hear that if you run Track Lock with out friction modifier then with in 100 or so miles of city driving it will basically be shot
but from what I was told shot in a good way as it will simply fully lock up but at some point there is a small part that can not take the stress and will break

I would suggest having some one hold 1 tire while you turn the other
if it will not move I would start looking for a new ,full carrier, replacement
let me suggest a Detroit locker

Now if a new front DS is $750 I would do a U-joint swap
I know that the T-case is "generic" so a U-joint for it is easy also a DS is easy
I dont know what the front diff looks like on the drive shaft side
I want to say it looks just like any other dana 30 so may be able to go with parts from an XJ or TJ

Both the t-case and diff flanges are one's for a CV joint,you'd need change both ends,to yokes, along with the t-case and diff pinion seals.

I'm in for the drive shaft. It would be the same as mine right? Should fit? I got the old one off finally. About the rear diff. It was making noises before i changed the oil so it may already have been shot. I thought it was open since the rear tires always spun while one stayed still. I guess track-lok is really crap-lok.

Here is the driveshaft




Here is the torn boot on the rear CV.



Now that i only have 2 wheel drive i guess i could be in '2 lo' and still be on the pavement.

After i stuck that friction modifier in there noise went away. No binding or rubbing noises now. Yay!

TJKJ2002 i sent you a PM about the front Drive Shaft.

This is what I would and probably will do
Get a yoke and pinion seal for the front diff ,unless I am crazy I can get one from a "u pull it yard" off of any thing with a dana 30 ,maybe not from a YJ because if the reverse rotation and high pinion
get the T-case yoke and DS from the same
order pinion seals for both the diff and the T-case
get 2 new U-joints use the DS and slip joint but get rid of the double U-joint end and use just 1 U-joint per end
have the DS cut to length and rebalanced
when I did the SYE and DS in my TJ this is basically the route I took
I got the DS from the front of an XJ for $25 and U-joints go from $10 on up
cut and balance was $100
I am thinking $250 for parts is 1/2 or less the cost of a new OE DS and better

With the great deal from Troy on the driveshaft, might as well go with his replacement shaft and next time around consider doing the U-joint replacements. In the meantime, ICARL should be able to drive around without the front driveshaft temporarily until he receives the shipment. Only 2-wheel drive, of course.

_________________
2003 Jeep Liberty - Limited
2.5" Daystar Lift
BFG All Terrain 255/70R16 tires