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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:25 pm 
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33's really? if so i'm going to start counting down the days till you get the 4.10's :) i've been tempted to try 33's on mine but dont want to waste the $ if they dont work. those would help my ride height a lot!!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:37 pm 
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33" tires and the D30A= KABOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless you weld extra bracing onto the diff like the original Jeepin By Al,no collar going to help there.The front isn't the problem for space,it'll be the rear you will run into massive problems unless you go ubove the 5" mark in lift(bye-bye CV's).


Also 4.10's aren't even good for 32" tires on a KJ,with the KJ's powerband 4.30's gears is the best for 32" tires,33" tires need 4.56's as a minimun.If you are all armored up 4.10's and 32" tires is like still sucking wind big time,heck the CRD's with 32" tires are sucking wind and they have about 50-70ft-lbs more torque and make it much lower then a 3.7 V-6 does.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:43 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
33" tires and the D30A= KABOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless you weld extra bracing onto the diff like the original Jeepin By Al,no collar going to help there.The front isn't the problem for space,it'll be the rear you will run into massive problems unless you go ubove the 5" mark in lift(bye-bye CV's).


Also 4.10's aren't even good for 32" tires on a KJ,with the KJ's powerband 4.30's gears is the best for 32" tires,33" tires need 4.56's as a minimun.If you are all armored up 4.10's and 32" tires is like still sucking wind big time,heck the CRD's with 32" tires are sucking wind and they have about 50-70ft-lbs more torque and make it much lower then a 3.7 V-6 does.

X2

BAD IDEA. First you'll get this- Image

followed by a lot of this Image

and eventually this-Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:50 pm 
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incubusmike wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
33" tires and the D30A= KABOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless you weld extra bracing onto the diff like the original Jeepin By Al,no collar going to help there.The front isn't the problem for space,it'll be the rear you will run into massive problems unless you go ubove the 5" mark in lift(bye-bye CV's).


Also 4.10's aren't even good for 32" tires on a KJ,with the KJ's powerband 4.30's gears is the best for 32" tires,33" tires need 4.56's as a minimun.If you are all armored up 4.10's and 32" tires is like still sucking wind big time,heck the CRD's with 32" tires are sucking wind and they have about 50-70ft-lbs more torque and make it much lower then a 3.7 V-6 does.

X2

BAD IDEA. First you'll get this- Image

followed by a lot of this Image

and eventually this-Image
And then you will think that upping the $$$$ to put this...............
Image
..............in sounded like a better deal after you blow the D30A to pieces.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:28 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
incubusmike wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
33" tires and the D30A= KABOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless you weld extra bracing onto the diff like the original Jeepin By Al,no collar going to help there.The front isn't the problem for space,it'll be the rear you will run into massive problems unless you go ubove the 5" mark in lift(bye-bye CV's).


Also 4.10's aren't even good for 32" tires on a KJ,with the KJ's powerband 4.30's gears is the best for 32" tires,33" tires need 4.56's as a minimun.If you are all armored up 4.10's and 32" tires is like still sucking wind big time,heck the CRD's with 32" tires are sucking wind and they have about 50-70ft-lbs more torque and make it much lower then a 3.7 V-6 does.

X2

BAD IDEA. First you'll get this- Image

followed by a lot of this Image

and eventually this-Image
And then you will think that upping the $$$$ to put this...............
Image
..............in sounded like a better deal after you blow the D30A to pieces.


Never said anything about doing it with whats in there now, Dang thought you all knew I had more sense than that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twisted:
I will just shut up and keep it all to myself :roll:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:14 pm 
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Quote:
Never said anything about doing it with whats in there now, Dang thought you all knew I had more sense than that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will just shut up and keep it all to myself
Gotta raze on yay somehow :wink: !


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 1:17 pm 
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front
Image
Image

back
Image
Image


cv angle
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 1:41 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Quote:
Never said anything about doing it with whats in there now, Dang thought you all knew I had more sense than that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will just shut up and keep it all to myself
Gotta raze on yay somehow :wink: !


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink:

Tom

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 1:58 pm 
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Now that's pretty angular.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:07 pm 
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Those CV angles are STEEP!!

Measure front center hub to fender.

I'm running 20.5" front / 22" rear from center hub to fender. Need to lift the front more.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:09 pm 
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[quote="rangerd77"][/quote]

How'd you get that much lift with a rusty's coil lift? Did you measure that 10min after you put the lift on before it sagged? I have 245/75-16 with 3 ring clevis, rusty's 2.5 coils, and rusty strut plate and i'm at 35"front and 36" rear with an extra isolator. I need to go up at least another 1" to fit my new general grabber 265/70-16's.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:45 am 
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rangerd77 wrote:
front

Image

back
Image
Image



Looks like front 22½" and 21½" rear C/L hub to flare.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:36 pm 
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when you guys say your measuring from c/l hub. where exactly is this? center lower lip part of the center cap?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:48 pm 
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dude i have no idea what they are talking about. thats why i measured from the ground up, its just easier that way. but if they are talking about the center of the center cap to the lip of the flare, im right 23 1/2 and 24 ~3/4


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:10 pm 
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If you measure from the center of the center cap or hub to the bottom of the flare it takes whatever size tire you are running out of the measurement giving you an accurate reading. Doesn't matter then if you have a 10 tall tire or a 32 inch tall :lol:

Thats the way its been done for years now, catch up! :wink: :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:34 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
If you measure from the center of the center cap or hub to the bottom of the flare it takes whatever size tire you are running out of the measurement giving you an accurate reading. Doesn't matter then if you have a 10 tall tire or a 32 inch tall :lol:

Thats the way its been done for years now, catch up! :wink: :wink:



I know why it's measure that way. I just didn't know what reference point c/l meant. Any way from center of center cap to lower lip of flare i'm 20 1/2" front and 20 1/4" rear which is bull doo doo. I'm ordering some ome hd's for the front and rear tomorrow. I will run the extra isolator in the rear as I do now and 3 ring clevis and rusty strut plate in the front. I'm assuming that should be around the same height as you which is 22"-23" front and rear. Same height as some frankenlift measurements in this thread. I'm ditching the KK clevis idea. I'll have a sagged set of Rusty's springs for sale shortly.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:04 pm 
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OME hd's have been ordered for the front and rear should be here monday. thanks for the help.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:04 pm 
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I guess I got more lift than I had expected. I am running OME HD springs w/ OME struts and long-travel shocks. No spacers or anything extra. I am at 21" front and back from center hub. 35" from the ground w/ 245/70/16 Destination A/T tires. That setup is advertised as a 1-1.5" lift, but it looks like I got more like 2.5".

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:42 pm 
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foosed wrote:
I guess I got more lift than I had expected. I am running OME HD springs w/ OME struts and long-travel shocks. No spacers or anything extra. I am at 21" front and back from center hub. 35" from the ground w/ 245/70/16 Destination A/T tires. That setup is advertised as a 1-1.5" lift, but it looks like I got more like 2.5".


Yes everyone gets at least 2.5 out of the OMEs you really thought it was 1.5 only :shock: :shock: :shock:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:45 pm 
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That's what AllJ advertised it as. They said that the only way you would get 2.5" was to buy the Frankenlift. The ARB site also advertises a 1-1.5" lift. Not that I am complaining though.

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