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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:21 am 
Do you have an alignment printout handy?

Do you have a stuck caliper on the RF?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:31 am 
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wouldn't they have felt the sticky caliper when driving it?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:38 am 
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i did just replace the front brakes and rotors, but I had already driven 500 miles before this problem occured


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:47 am 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
There are several posts all over this website on how to check balljoints. Not to mention, before doing an alignment on ANY vehicle, balljoints/tie rod ends/bushings should be checked for play.

Does it wander? or does it pull to one direction?

If it's a wander or a "wobbly" feeling, ThunderbirdJunkie would bank on toasted upper balljoints.


I thought the alignment shop would have checked my ball joints too.. But I actually found out by checking them myself after having the "wobbly" feeling. Thats how I got the shop to redo my alignment for free. And they never could diagnose the tire pull.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:23 am 
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I am guessing that this is how to check them?
Ball Joints
Also, according to DOT.gov..

Make: JEEP Model: LIBERTY
Model Year: 2005
Manufacturer: DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION Mfr's Report Date: AUG 01, 2006
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 06V288000 EA06008
NHTSA Action Number: EA06008
Component: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Potential Number of Units Affected: 826687
Summary:
ON CERTAIN TRUCKS, THE CONSTANT TENSION FRONT LOWER BALL JOINTS MAY EXPERIENCE CONTAMINATION. IF THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD WITH THIS CONDITION, THE BALL JOINT MAY EVENTUALLY EXPERIENCE WEAR AND LOOSENESS.
Consequence:
WHEN THE DRIVER CONTINUES TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE WITH THIS CONDITION, THE CONTAMINATION CAN LEAD TO CORROSION, ACCELERATED WEAR AND POSSIBLY SEPARATION FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE CAUSING A LOSS OF VEHICLE STEERING CONTROL INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FRONT LOWER BALL JOINTS FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON SEPTEMBER 11, 2006. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
Notes:
DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECALL NO. F23. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION¿S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

This recall is still open!!!
maybe...
So does that mean that I can get my Ball Joints replaced for free again, even though I already have done it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:16 pm 
Wow rip.

You are just REALLY on top of things...Good thing you found that link for all of us that had absolutely no idea there was an open recall on lower balljoints...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:42 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
Wow rip.

You are just REALLY on top of things...Good thing you found that link for all of us that had absolutely no idea there was an open recall on lower balljoints...


:shock: :lol: ThunderbirdJunkie, I think he was wanting to know the answer to the LAST question. Can he have them done AGAIN?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:15 pm 
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To answer the question that you had rip, yes, once you have a recall that part will always ne covered given that it goes bad again. If the lower balljoints have enough play in them then they must replace them. Im not sure how much play the joint must have but IMHO any play is too much.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:15 pm 
Jeepjeepster wrote:
To answer the question that you had rip, yes, once you have a recall that part will always ne covered given that it goes bad again.


ONLY in the case of 2002-7 Libertys, 00-05 Toyota Sequoias and Tundras.

Not all recalls warranty a part for life.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:15 pm 
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well it is not my balljoints... should I go to another alignment shop and have them take a go at it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:45 pm 
riptricket wrote:
well it is not my balljoints... should I go to another alignment shop and have them take a go at it?


Replied to on last page with...
ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
Then go to a shop that knows how to align a vehicle PROPERLY.


;)

Yes, get a 2nd opinion.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:38 am 
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riptricket wrote:
well it is not my balljoints... should I go to another alignment shop and have them take a go at it?


Take a look at your brakes too. Make sure one of them is'nt dragging. The reason i say this is because i found this was the problem with mine.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:17 pm 
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Okay... here is the third alignment that I have received from 3 different hibdon's...
Image
Says it is dead center, and it is...
But still have the pulling to the right like I am driving in a hurricane.

Quote:
Take a look at your brakes too. Make sure one of them is'nt dragging. The reason i say this is because i found this was the problem with mine.

How would I go about doing this?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:42 pm 
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Pull both front tires off, then your calipers. If one side is dragging you will notice that one side has LESS brake pad left. Brake pads should have even wear on them. If your pads are LESS than the thickness of a nickle (yes the coin) REPLACE THEM! Now pushing the cylinder back in to the caliper with a C-clamp might correct this. Make sure you take the cap off the brake reservor and watch to make sure it doesn't spill over the top. (Brake fluid and paint don't like eachother) Do both sides even if you don't need pads. It wouldn't hurt to look at the rears to, cause you never know?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:51 pm 
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I did just change my brakes and rotors... but to have someone look at them, I think I will go and have a brake place look at it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:50 pm 
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alright I took it to another place and they said to wait until the wind dies down... granted our winds this week have been peaking at 60mph, and not to worry about my tires.

He said as long as the alignment is good, then turning the steering wheel one way or the other should not matter and that my tires would not wear improperly.

IS THAT TRUE?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 6:03 pm 
So your steering wheel is crooked? that's all?

When you let go of the steering wheel, does the KJ track straight, or does it try to change lanes?
When you're going straight, is the steering wheel straight, or crooked?

From ThunderbirdJunkie's experience with these stellar ( :roll: ) General tires...he would not be the least bit shocked to find out that you have a seperated belt in one or both or all 4 of them.

YGWYPF


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:49 am 
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the steering wheel and the kj both go to the right when I take my hands off of the steering wheel!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:58 am 
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Image

Circled in yellow............

Camber is both tilting both front wheels the same way,can cause a pull

Circled in red............

caster being a bit more on the left should cancel the camber for a pull,should.

Circled in orange........

Toe,the cause of your pull.You notice that both front wheels are pointed to the right slightly,the total toe is centered with the steering wheel pointed to the right.They need to tweek the toe.



Take it back and have the tow set perfectly and try to set the left camber at +0.3 degrees to mirror the right side and that should take care of your pull.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 2:58 am 
ITBJHO, that is not a big enough cross-spec on the caster or camber to cause anything that resembles a pull.

ThunderbirdJunkie's is far more right-geared on camber/caster, and it doesn't pull...

Now it's always possible ThunderbirdJunkie is just not as sensitive to a pull as anybody else.


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