kj stalled om me fore the first time

foxhunter · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 5:44 pm

haven't tried it that way, tried bleeding the fuel system and it would not start, then after letting it set for 20 minutes it fired right up.
there was air in the fuel filter, that's whey I am thinking 2 problems , not just one. if it was just the air it should start as soon as the air is removed.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 7:10 pm

find out soon enough, thanks again for all you help. I love a good challenge and this is a good one. so far I have replaced the fuel filter head, heater fan resister, lift pump and cps are next on the list.
both front ball joints (along with lower control arms a wheel bearing and a abs pickup)were replaced, fan motor and trailer hitch inspected, rear control arms, all under the factory recalls.
any thing else I should be looking out for, plan gde tune when I can get in touch with them.

if I understood your post the fuel tank connectors were designed for a pressure system so no need to eliminate them. if it's air in the fuel system after the filter head replace it almost has to be coming from the tank connections.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:26 am

Quote:

any thing else I should be looking out for

You are on the right track!!!
Get rid of that EGR, EGR cooler and FCV with a Weeks elbow kit. If you cannot get rid of all that crap due to visual emissions inspection, you can block off the EGR feed tube to the EGR and it will stop all the gunk buildup in the intake and make the motor run better. For all visual appearances, all the EGR system will appear to be in place! :wink:

For complete instructions on a block off plate, see this thread:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit

For the Weeks (Sasquatch Parts) elbow kit:> https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... berty-crd/

As for a tune, if you have a laptop computer you can do it yourself and save a lot of money! All that is needed is an MPPS cable available on Ebay for ~20 bucks...
The tunes are available for downloading on this forum for free! :wink:

See this thread for details:> viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

foxhunter · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2016 2:50 am

I thought the gde eco tune tune took care of the crap blowing into the engine. did I miss read their web page? or maybe the elephant hose mod.

I have silicone hoses on the way and I believe the glow plugs are still the ceramic type and will need replacing as well.
may be trying to turn a sows ear into a silk purse. I do see a lot of these crd's with 170000+ miles on them and counting.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2016 11:00 am

foxhunter wrote:

I thought the gde eco tune tune took care of the crap blowing into the engine. did I miss read their web page? or maybe the elephant hose mod.

I have silicone hoses on the way and I believe the glow plugs are still the ceramic type and will need replacing as well.
may be trying to turn a sows ear into a silk purse. I do see a lot of these crd's with 17000+ miles on them and counting.

No tune can 100% guarantee that there will be no leak by of the EGR valve allowing soot from the exhaust to enter the intake manifold where it will mix with the oil vapors coming from CCV system and make soot mud pies in the intake manifold!!!! :roll:

The ONLY 100% sure way to ensure that no soot enters the intake manifold is to block off the EGR exhaust feed tube or totally remove the entire EGR system, i.e. EGR valve, EGR cooler, FCV, and all associated plumbing, by installing a Weeks (SasquatchParts.com) Elbow Kit!
Tunes or ECM reflash as they are commonly called only disable the EGR valve operation electronically, so if the EGR valve is leaking by it can still at times dump some soot into the intake. :banghead:

Installing a tune or a reflash after installing a EGR block off plate or Weeks elbow kit keeps the DTC lights (check engine light) from illuminating due to no flow or no longer having the EGR valve and FCV connected to the ECM if removed...

Hope this clears it up for you? :wink:

Best money you can spend: Buy a Weeks (SasquatchParts.com) Elbow kit, and buy a MPPS cable and install a do-it-yourself ECM reflash!!! Problem Solved! :rockon:

foxhunter · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:04 pm

not sure I am computer literate enough to do the ecm tune. if the glow plugs have to be replaced the egr has to come out anyway so that would be the opportune time to do the elbow. if the purpose of the tune is more power, I don't need it. this thing is a tractor as it is, better fuel economy I could see, no cel as well.
thanks again for you helping this old man.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:29 pm

Where are you located Bob?
Maybe someone close by who can help you with the DIY tune! All it takes is a laptop and a MPPS cable...

You need to add your vehicle info and your location to your signature (control panel) and this will help others when trying to help you... :wink:

foxhunter · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2016 1:14 pm

Mansfield Missouri, 43 miles from Springfield mo.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Wed Dec 14, 2016 8:38 pm

wwdiesel seems you were spot on with your call on the cps. started it today and just let it idle for a few minutes and then drove it up and down the driveway 3 times(long driveway). when I came to a stop it dies. decided not to bleed the fuel system and let the crd sit for 30 minutes. everyone told if it's fuel/air it won't go away on it's own and restart, 30 minutes later it fired right up.

WWDiesel wrote:

foxhunter wrote:

wasn't cold as we were in town running around, mad a stop as the Dr's and walley world.
left walley world and drove about 1/2 mile and stopped at a red light. as the light changed and we pulled away the engine quit about 40 yards past the light. made the same sound as when you shut off the key.
while I am here where should the temperature needle run on the crd, mine is at the 1/4 mark most of the time,

OK, you have the classic symptoms of a bad CPS (crank position sensor)!
They usually cut you off after driving a short distance during the engine warm up cycle.
Normal engine temperature is just a tic left of straight up on the temperature gauge.
A new Bosch CPS can be purchased for ~50 bucks at Autozone under their store brand Duralast, Part Number: SU8492 (will be a Bosch part in Duralast Box)
There are instructions on this forum on how to replace if you want to do-it-yourself, just do a search! :wink:

It is not a real bad job, should be done from underneath the vehicle.

If you need help or advice, just ask, many on here more than willing to help!!!!!

foxhunter · **Posted:** Sat Dec 17, 2016 2:09 pm

well replaced the cps sensor this morning and went for a drive, crd ran like a top and the world is spinning in greased groove again.
still have the carter to do and replacement glow plugs.
replaced the intercooler hoses with silicone ones as well.
I am a lot happier camper than I was.
thanks to all that responded with good advice and a special shout out to wwdiesel.

thinking of doing the gde eco and a block off plate for insurance.

foxhunter wrote:

wwdiesel seems you were spot on with your call on the cps. started it today and just let it idle for a few minutes and then drove it up and down the driveway 3 times(long driveway). when I came to a stop it dies. decided not to bleed the fuel system and let the crd sit for 30 minutes. everyone told if it's fuel/air it won't go away on it's own and restart, 30 minutes later it fired right up.

WWDiesel wrote:

foxhunter wrote:

wasn't cold as we were in town running around, mad a stop as the Dr's and walley world.
left walley world and drove about 1/2 mile and stopped at a red light. as the light changed and we pulled away the engine quit about 40 yards past the light. made the same sound as when you shut off the key.
while I am here where should the temperature needle run on the crd, mine is at the 1/4 mark most of the time,

OK, you have the classic symptoms of a bad CPS (crank position sensor)!
They usually cut you off after driving a short distance during the engine warm up cycle.
Normal engine temperature is just a tic left of straight up on the temperature gauge.
A new Bosch CPS can be purchased for ~50 bucks at Autozone under their store brand Duralast, Part Number: SU8492 (will be a Bosch part in Duralast Box)
There are instructions on this forum on how to replace if you want to do-it-yourself, just do a search! :wink:

It is not a real bad job, should be done from underneath the vehicle.

If you need help or advice, just ask, many on here more than willing to help!!!!!

kj stalled om me fore the first time

Who is online