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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 6:44 pm 
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JFortier777 wrote:
Does anyone have any pictures of the supposed arm contact with the spring. When fully unloaded my UBJ is what lays on the spring.


Why couldn't you have asked for that picture yesterday? Hold on, I may be able to do something.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 6:51 pm 
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Here you go, a picture of the old A arm. Evident in the picture is contact with A arm right above ball joint and also where the arms branch off. Look closely where I've removed the dirt.

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:18 pm 
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Thats a good thing to hear about the clearance. I've been wanting to get these A-arms for awhile now just wanted to make sure they acually cleared the spring.

I was under the impression that lifts, other than the spacers, that replaced spring actually had poly stops on them. These would prevent the A-arm UBJ from making contact and prevent the "clunk" associated with it. Your rubber UBJ boot looks like it was getting pretty damaged. Others have said that the Frankenlift didn't allow this to happen, that's why it was so much better than the OTT lifts. Now I'm a little confused as to why your UBJ looks like that.

Regardless, I'll be ordering the Jeepin Al's A-arms soon. Thanks for keepin' us up to date.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:47 pm 
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I figured I might as well post my pics, since I guess that is the same contact I was encountering.


I dont actually touch the arm at all.
Image

Hole caused by spring rubbing.
Image

Holes caused by internal binding.
Image
Image

EDIT:

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:54 pm 
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First off, the Frankenlift is a great product! The Frankenlift comes with a poly stop that is under the spring, problem was my A arm was coming in contact with the spring before it hit the stop. It's possible that the interference is due to my using the OME 927s (HD) instead of the 926s.

Once again, the JeepinAl A arms not only corrected the spring interference problem, but my alignment problems were almost miraculously corrected by them.

It's my opinion that the Frankenlift is a great lift, with the only caveat being you need to install Al's A arms with it.

In the near future, I'll be installing Rubicon Express adjustable lower control arms and a custom made adjustable boomerang to fix the rear problems.

Most complain about the price of the Frankenlift, but I've found to effectively lift the KJ and make it work to it's utmost ability will take about $1750.00. Some will probably conclude that I've lost my mind with a number like that, but parts ain't cheap.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:58 pm 
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Miah,

The coil above where the contact with the UBJ is doesn't hit the A arm?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:28 pm 
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My intentions were not to say the Frankenlift was not a good lift. I apologize if I came across as insulting. I was just surprised that there was contact at all with the UBJ. I've heard so many say on these forums that these lifts were so great because they didn't allow this to happen at all compared to the OTT spacers. The fact that one may have to be prepared to spend another $350 to fix what any of these lifts may cause is deffinately something we all need to know.

I would like to see pics of OME 926's at full extension just to see if there is any rubbing. Anyone out there have pics that show UBJ not making contact with spring and a lift?


JFortier777, those are some great pics above. I also checked out your photobucket. I always tell myself to digitize the work I do just for comparative reasons. My hat off to you for doing just that. You make sure to take a photo of every step. Now I know how the Magnaflow will look under the Jeep. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:41 pm 
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looks like you did not install the spacer pad that keeps the arm from hitting the spring.(yes you need that with frankenlift)


Even with AL's arms you will still need the pad there when at full drop.

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Last edited by PitViper on Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:53 pm 
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PitViper wrote:
looks like you did not install the spacer pad that keeps the arm from hitting the spring.(yes you need that with frankenlift)


Even with AL's arms you will still need the pad there when at full drop.


Mine has the pad installed, the Frankenlift front strut assembly came preassembled. My contact was above the pad. I thought that was clearly stated a couple of posts ago.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:56 pm 
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Sorry mutt I didn't make it clear I was talking about JFortier777's KJ

Now see that he has the RR lift... don't know what i was thinking


I guess I was thinking everyone should have a franenlift!

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Last edited by PitViper on Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:57 pm 
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PitViper wrote:
Sorry mutt I didn't make it clear I was talking about JFortier777's KJ


Cool, yeah, his isn't a Frankenlift.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:48 pm 
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Mutt wrote:
Miah,

The coil above where the contact with the UBJ is doesn't hit the A arm?


Image
See for yourself.




Thats a no.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:51 pm 
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02KJSport wrote:
JFortier777, those are some great pics above. I also checked out your photobucket. I always tell myself to digitize the work I do just for comparative reasons. My hat off to you for doing just that. You make sure to take a photo of every step. Now I know how the Magnaflow will look under the Jeep. :)


What can I say, I love to take pictures. Never trust your memory I say.

Of course it helps to have a rocking good cam with a 4GB memory card.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:53 pm 
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Mutt wrote:
Cool, yeah, his isn't a Frankenlift.


I think it might be....

In the truest sense of the name. Rofl.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:09 pm 
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OK just to clear this up.... I have a Frankenlift with the same style spacer pads as Mutt (molded black, NOT the hose clamp ones). Currently my drivers side UBJ makes contact with the spring. By replacing the a-arms with Jeepin Al's a-arms, will this solve the problem?? Or, will I still need to get the hose clamp style spacer pads?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:27 pm 
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ryanee182 wrote:
Or, will I still need to get the hose clamp style spacer pads?


I believe Heather stated in another post that All J's was working on a newly designed, built-in, bump stop. I'd wait for pics and/or a description of how they intend to address the issue.

How about limiting straps? It would provide a cleaner look over the hose clamped option. Hell, they might even look pretty trick.

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Last edited by fdezone on Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:25 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: recommendation
PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:32 pm 
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Jeepin Al wrote:
I would recommend that you undo the clips on the boots (axle side) and slide the boot down the axle, pulling the boots down the axle. It will keep them from rubbing and wearing out. With the mud and dirt that is collected, they will wear out.


Good advice of prolonging the life of the boots. The friction they create while all bunched up, especially at speeds, will destroy the boots rather quickly. Longer boots is also a viable option. The actual CV angles, however, is another story. Keep a close eye on things and good luck.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 1:24 pm 
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I spray my boots with silicone from time to time to help with wear.

ryanee182, check out the thread below:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 0&start=15

Look at the VERY last post in that thread. The built in bumpstop DOES NOT work. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:45 pm 
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I will be replacing my A-Arms soon. I just ordered them over the weekend. My driver side upper ball joint is making a lot of noise.

Any short cuts to make the driver side easier?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 8:28 am 
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Hey Al, I removed the smaller clamp on the inner CV to do just what you said and since then, when the temperature is hot, CV grease comes from that area. Yes, I replaced the clamp. It looks like the problem is that there is no machined area on the halfshaft for the CV clamp to hold onto like in the original spot. It does make the boot look less stressed though.

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