Did you get a pic of it with the yellow marker stuff before you took it out to show what it was ?
That would have been the 1st thing I would have done to compare ect.

I'm sure you'll get it....

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Custom, Comfortable & Capable.......just the way it should be

OzLtd, I never thought to take the original pattern. While it would have given me a good idea, the original backlash was off, so I'm not sure I would have trusted it anyways. I'm thinking that decreasing backlash may center the pattern. I've got the Yukon Bearing Puller now, so it's possible to change pinion shims. I'll see what happens tomorrow.

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Got my pattern fixed and locker completely installed today. The new pinion depth, backlash, and rotating torque are .024", .007", and 22.5 lb/in respectively. I just need to wait for the RTV to dry, fill up the housing, and finish running the air line. Here are a couple of pics of my new pattern:

Drive:


Coast:


Locker Installed:

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unixxx
I know it may be a little late but better than not at all
the routing of that copper hose is critical in respect to rubbing and I am not sure about the 8.25 rear but I know that in the dana 30 on a TJ you have to be sure that you get the carrier shims in and they are good and tight so that the carrier can not move if it moves then bad things will happen
I will go find the pics

note the tiny hose on the left side of the thing that holds the carrier in

note the shinny copper stuff on the ring gear and the chewed to heck hose


as I said bad things can happen
how ever the good thing is that I know now that my front diff breather is working good cause the compressor was airing up the whole diff and the air was coming out of the breather


I also dont know where you ar putting your compressor but if it is going inside the jeep any where then you will want to get some cheep hose and a fitting for the vent side other wise the inside of your jep will get the stink of gear oil in it
I dont mind it in the TJ but I would not want that stink in the KJ noy enough ari to move it out

Thanks for the info Jason. I should be good for the vent because the compressor is going in the engine compartment. The 8.25" doesn't actually have carrier shims because it's a side adjuster design. I did make sure that the adjusters were tightened above the 75 lb/ft factory spec. How does the pattern look?

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pattern looks good
that is what mine looked like whe I put it in the first time I did not check it the second time but it should be fine cause the shims I added were the paper thin ones

I got everything installed on Sunday and have driven the Jeep for the past two days. Everything works great! There is absolutely no noise or vibration coming from the rear end. In fact, it sounds quieter than the stock setup. Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do for an air source. Here's a picture of the completed install:

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Hey Congrats Unixxx. Now you need to come to Paragon later this month to test it out.

Jason

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Now: "07 steel blue JK Rubicon 2dr
4.5" Rubicon Express lift
rolling on 35"x12.5" Xtreme MT's
Warn M8000 winch
On board Air
Ham radios
Skidrow and kilby skids

Former: '05 Patriot Blue CRD. Lifted, locked, and a few other toys.

Thanks Jason. I need to go out to Paragon before it closes, but I'm stuck with 2WD until I finish the front diff and can't do anything involving a lot of torque for 500 miles. By the way, I forgot to mention the new measurements: pinion depth, backlash, and rotating torque are .024", .007", and 22.5 lb/in respectively.

Does anyone have any thought on how to break in the front when I finish it? It's impossible to break in on the road because I only have part-time. I guess I'll have to take it easy when I first go off-road. Also, driving around with the front driveshaft removed shouldn't pose any problems, correct? I'm assuming it creates the same sort of condition that a TJ NV231 experiences with aftermarket hubs disengaged.

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~~bookmarking thread for future reference, some great stuff in here....maybe in the tech articles perhaps for those of us who want to upgrade to the same stats on their KJ....I know i'd follow this to a T whenever I get the chance to do such improvements...thanks unixxx~~

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Had 2005 KJ Rocky Mnt. Edition (destroyed)
Had 2006 KJ Sport 4x4
Have 2007 JK 4-dr Sahara 4x4 (tow package so stock 4.10s!!)
AEV 3.5" RS Lift; Schrockworks FR bumper and Warn 9.5ti winch; Cobra 75 CB; Rigid 50" LED light bar; Adventure Trailers (AT Overland) JK Kitchen setup in the cargo area.
Southern L.O.S.T. # 236487

unixxx
all you need to do to break in the front gears is drive it for ~500 miles
remember that they are spining every mile you drive as the KJ has no disconnect at the hub so they will do the meshing or breaking in that way
I know that when we went to Gilmer a long while back one of the guys had new gears installed about a month befor and the shop that did it said that by the time he got there they would be broke in fine that was like 3 years ago and he has no problems

also a note it looks like you left a good loop in the air line you may want to shorten that up
and how did you run it to get it to the unibody or into the jeep?
I was thinking right up the wishbone/tri link thingy
I know on the TJ we used the upper control arms but the KJ does not have them