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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:07 pm 
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Obihann in the pic of the white lib, if there is a bumpstop on the left rear, the tire cannot travel up any further. If you were to remove the bump stop the wheel go travel farther. if the tire is to big, obviously there would be rubbing and a need for the bump stop. if you look at my comment, i was referring to the struts.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:16 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
trac95ker wrote:
Michael-dba, I said the exact same thing about springs and dampers in another thread and I didn't receive a warm welcome. Someone actually said that using MD springs with no bumper and no winch would make it ride like a cadillac or a tracker and that is not what they are interested in. They suggest going HD and no bumper and winch. They seem to prefer less droop and a firmer ride. To top it off they are using extended bump stops with OME struts limiting the travel even more!


The other side of it is, 99.99999999% of those of us who are lifted have scooted the clevis further down the front shock, or have a small spacer on top of it, thus necessitating a longer bumpstop :roll:


some of know what works and are using them the way they should be used while others are just out there pretending right Tbird :lol: :lol: :lol: Its funny that the ones that started this whole site went through tons of different lifts to find the best setup yet others come on and think they know more than those who actually tested every combination out there. Thats why I chose what I did was from their experiences before I got on here in 04 :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:34 pm 
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Tom i did some searching and in a previous post you mentioned that you stacked a coil :( what happened there? :P Looks like you didn't choose to wisely.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:00 pm 
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trac95ker wrote:
Tom i did some searching and in a previous post you mentioned that you stacked a coil :( what happened there? :P Looks like you didn't choose to wisely.


Sheesh man, you are getting some enjoyment out of trying to prove your opinions to us here.... And after reading these posts, your not really convincing anyone of anything... :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:07 pm 
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:lol: YEAH TOM!!!! What about that stacked coil!!! :shock:



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:07 pm 
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ObiHann wrote:
trac95ker wrote:
Tom i did some searching and in a previous post you mentioned that you stacked a coil :( what happened there? :P Looks like you didn't choose to wisely.


Sheesh man, you are getting some enjoyment out of trying to prove your opinions to us here.... And after reading these posts, your not really convincing anyone of anything... :roll:


not convincing me AT ALL. sounds like a bunch of jibberish to me. like he just finished reading book, "How Suspension on 4x4 Vehicles Works" and wants to share what he learned lol :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:23 pm 
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My wife works as a librarian at a elementary, these threads sound exactly like her telling me about her day. A bunch of 3rd graders arguing that they brought there book back even though she KNOWS they didn't....

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:48 pm 
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trac95ker wrote:
Tom i did some searching and in a previous post you mentioned that you stacked a coil :( what happened there? :P Looks like you didn't choose to wisely.


No I did choose wisely, but after the initial install I took it down on the farm and twisted the H out of it to see if it would and what I needed to do, and yes I did stack the coil so then bumpstops were installed to take in for that. I did not choose unwisely !!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:28 pm 
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when you get 2.5" of lift out of 1.5" lift you are taking it away from the droop side and adding it to the extension side. Is that really hard to understand?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:35 pm 
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Tom if you stacked the coil you didn't choose the right strut coil combo. you probably installed a spacer in the strut. All you had to do is subtract the coil block height from the compressed strut and spacer dimension. If the block height was less than the compressed length you would have been fine. Thats a no brainer!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:36 pm 
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trac95ker wrote:
when you get 2.5" of lift out of 1.5" lift you are taking it away from the droop side and adding it to the extension side. Is that really hard to understand?


you're still comparing an SFA to an IFS I think, go out tear down your KJ, remove the front suspension. Now look at what all moves and where, see how much you have each way and then start installing the shocks and coils
I understand what you are trying to get at but its a little different with the IFS thats all

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:39 pm 
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trac95ker wrote:
Tom if you stacked the coil you didn't choose the right strut coil combo. you probably installed a spacer in the strut. All you had to do is subtract the coil block height from the compressed strut and spacer dimension. If the block height was less than the compressed length you would have been fine. Thats a no brainer!


Now you are assuming what I did aren't you??? I DO NOT HAVE A SPACER in the shock :? :? :? PLUS REMEMBER we do not have struts we only call them that as to not confuse the newbies , oh wait thats right......

never mind , a neighbor of my Grandfather once tried to teach his pig to sing opera, that didn't work either

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:45 pm 
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I'm talking about IFS. when the vehicle is lifted, the spindle side of the CA slants farther down. it is now closer to max droop. So you end up with less droop and more compression.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:52 pm 
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I'm trying to use lingo people are familiar with, everybody refers to the front as strut. Why didn't you just measure?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:05 pm 
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any replies?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:10 pm 
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trac95ker wrote:
I'm talking about IFS. when the vehicle is lifted, the spindle side of the CA slants farther down. it is now closer to max droop. So you end up with less droop and more compression.


Trac95ker....you have really no idea what you are talking about, now do you?

How in the .... can you lift a libby without pushing the LCA and UCA at a downward angle.

Yeah, doing a cradle drop. But you probably wouldn't understand that either.

Now on the IFS the first real droop limiter is the UCA that comes into contact with the coil. If you fit JBA UCA's that problem is mostly solved, but then as TJKJ told you already your CV isn't any longer at a given point and so it just doesn't go any further.

I'm sorry to be so harsh but it seems like you are just trying to p. everyone of.

Including me.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:16 pm 
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Tony the cas have to move down to lift the vehicle. when you do that they are closer to droop max. you end up with more up travel than down travel. has it sunk in yet?

A cradle drop is the proper way to do it if you want to keep the suspension geometry within factory specs or close to it.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:22 pm 
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I have quick disconnects :D




Ok, but why would I want more droop? The side that is drooping doesn't have as much pressure on the tire as the side that is compressed so therefore doesn't have as much grip....So if I don't have a locker that tire is bound to spin. So who cares if it's up in the air or just barely touching the ground.

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Last edited by tonycrd on Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:24 pm 
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we dont want to keep it within factory specs though! when we lift the jeep, the arms droop down more, giving us more ground clearance under the engine skid! and the suspension still works just fine!

OBVIOUSLY we have less down travel from where it sits on flat ground, thats obvious physics, but did we really lose any TOTAL down travel? NOT AT ALL, the vehicle just sits higher.

i REALLY dont know what your trying to prove in these 2 threads, other than try to piss people off, and make yourself sound like you KNOW ALL!! because you obviously dont, come on man, get real.

these arent Baja desert trucks that fly over jumps and bumps at 100-120mph, where you want fast down travel to keep 4 tires on the ground as much as possible. watch that video, watch the suspension. if we wanted suspension to work like that, we wouldnt have Jeep Liberty' :lol: . Yea, ours works similar, but will never be like that
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dal3zYS_DY

heres another vid :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMaiV8m7OYM

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:14 pm 
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Tony you want droop so your tires keep in contact with the ground when you come off a bump for what ever speed you are going. traction is good. when you 3 wheel it causes more stress on the other axles.There is no point to having a ton of compression if the wheel can't rebound far enough to stay in contact with the ground. 50/50 is good.

rayman not everyone wants to set there vehicle up like you. I understand a lot of people do. if you are in 4 hi, you will probably notice the effects of less droop. terrain such as sand duned with ripple bumps or fire roads, etc. usually terrain that cycles the suspension quickly. probably 15 mph or faster.

the point i'm trying to make is if you are a mall crawler or an occasional crawler and really want a better ride and some lift following OME reccomendations is fine. i understand people have different needs. it seem like a lot of people push HD and i'm just trying to point out issues so people can make more of an informed decision. When I take advice from someone I want to know how it effects all aspects of what i'm asking. There have been some people who were not happy with the HD setup (no bumper, no winch). Maybe the extra lift helps for the wheeling you do but if you were playing in sand dunes or some of the terrain in Baja, i think a 50/50 split would be more beneficial than an extra inch of lift. you don't need to be going 50mph to notice it.

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