I wanted 3" like.. NOW! so I went 'cheap'.. The ad said " This is the best way to lift your Liberty "( no company would mislead to make a sale,right?) . So cheap equeled about $450 all said. After actually wheeling and using my libby as a Jeep the UCA's are both shot and clunking. It was impossible to get aligned to specs and my 3" lift has shrunk to about 2 1/4. Unfortunate for me i did mine before i found this site. As has been pointed out to me and several others, you go cheap you can expect a great "mall crawler" that will fit larger tires but anything else and you are asking for trouble. i am saving to do a proper lift..OME and Rancho and every $ in that account reminds me of wasted money under my rig now. Go cheap..but man up later and admit when it fails. I am still using "optional to replace" stock rears and they ride like crap! just because I have not replaced them doesn't mean they are still good. It seems almost weekly this comes up and we are lucky the ones that know do not get frustrated and stop replying. Tried and true and in the know.. nuff said.

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04 RENNY/ Totaled RIP.
04 Rubicon soft top. Warn front bumper w 9,000 lb winch. 6 KC lights 4 on bumper 2 on windshield. Warn rear w swingout tire carrier. Warn diff guards. Full skids.Super sliders. 4" lift, terraflex disconnects, Airraid filter. Flood backup lights.Midland CB. Braided brake lines Redtop w dual setup on the way.

Don't forget the fact that if customs decides they need to search your package, you get billed for the labor involved in them... opening a box and looking inside?

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02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

If height is all that matters, do whatever you want.

You can buy your $150 lift.
I, on the other hand, will continue to NOT replace my upper control arms, continue to out-flex you, and continue to have a better ride than your KJ, and continue to be bigger than your KJ.

Nobody is forcing you to spend $600+ on a lift...but we are advising you.

If flex and ride quality did not matter, Jeep would never have rehashed the CJ into the YJ into the TJ into the JK. Don't get me wrong, I loved my CJs, but I am not eager to get back into a crappy riding vehicle for a DD again.





That's what she said!

So then I must be doing something wrong because after fitting the Daystar 2" puck to the rear I killed my stock shocks in a month.

Or maybe I am doing it right (taking my KJ ofroad)

And oh..this:



Lets keep it civil guys, never hurts to be critical and ask questions. That's what this board is all about, helping out other Jeepers.

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Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es

This is like reading my posts from a year ago.... just trying to figure out why there is such a price difference from the daystar and the others LMAO Oh well, it took me forever to learn, so, lets give everyone the same change

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02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

I spent the money on the Franky 2 Premium and All Upper control arms and am really glad i did:

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2006 LTD 3.7L
Tow Package
Full Mopar skid set
Mopar front Tow hooks
Frankenlift II Premium
Al's Gen 4.5 A-arms
Boulder Bars
SpiderTrax 1.25" Spacers
Goodyear Silent Armors 245/70/17

Two comments

Back n Black

The way the Daystar lift works is this:; They give you a top plate that is 2 1/2" taller. They use the 2 1/2" red spacer to keep the coil spring at stock ride height or close to it. That way you get a 2 1/2" lift but don't have to pay for a new spring and strut. The only advatage you gain is ground clearance. If the spacer is thicker than the strut plate offset, that will preload the spring. If its a saggy spring it will probably level it and maybe a slight improvement to ride quality. If its a good spring then it will effect the progressive rate of the spring. the coils that are designed to move quickly under smaller road imperfections(lite forces impacting the tires) will be affected because the spacer will be compressing those coils. Now the road forces will start to effect the coils that are progressively stiffer. This will give a firmer feel.

If you could compare one stock strut to a Daystar setup. Measure the compressed length of the coils in each strut. if the stock spring is taller you know the kit is preloading the spring ( to what degree would be the next question) also measure the lengths of both struts from mounting surface to lower bolt eyelet. that will tell you how much lift you are getting.

What would be cool is if someone took a OME strut and spring and combined it with the Daystar top plate and spacer. You could retain the extra articulation and ride quality, proper amount of compression and droop, plus gain 2 1/2" of ground clearance from the strut plate. 4" of lift!...... I think it would over stress the ball joints and you would probably hit the UCL plus alignment woud be a problem. Someone has probably done this already.

The reason Tony CRD ruined his old shocks is because he raised the back of the vehicle by two inches. That extended the shock shaft by two inches leaving less shock shaft to extend. It sounds like he wheels his Libby so when the axle articulates the shock could not extend far enough. The shock is the first component that is limiting the articulation. All the weight of the vehicle is pulling on this one shock. If he raised the shock mount on the axle by 2" the shock mayhave been fine. I don't think the stock shocks are very good quality. It was not designed as a limiter.
Does your friend ever flex up his axle or jump his vehicle? Chances are his shock has not been over extended that much.

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06 limited, brown
OME (OME 927/948 Airlift assist bags,Aeroturbine 2525xl, Alpine 7995, CB, roof top cargo carrier.

very nice...how loud are your tires? They look good. Did you have to pound the pinch weld?

with the wheels I'm looking at, that's the size tire I need. It's nice to see what it looks like, I was afraid the sidewall would be silly short

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2006 Liberty Sport

WAY TOO much lift, and yes swmpthng tried it and has had several problems with it and ended up taking it all off, but he used crustys coils, and I think it made him sit at about 5.5" of lift

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/

Those KM2's were LOUD... "E" rated tires; very dense & Heavy 10ply tires... Killed my MPG's, but, my gawd, they were amazing off-road for the 3 weeks I had them... I traded them in For some Good Year Silent Armors (thanks Discount Tire), and the SA's are also quite amazing in thier own right....

with those KM2's, I did not need to do any pounding or trimming... but now that I have my Spidertrax wheelspacers on, I had to do alot of trimming & pounding....

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2006 LTD 3.7L
Tow Package
Full Mopar skid set
Mopar front Tow hooks
Frankenlift II Premium
Al's Gen 4.5 A-arms
Boulder Bars
SpiderTrax 1.25" Spacers
Goodyear Silent Armors 245/70/17

What size were those KM2's?

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02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

245/70/17's......... Here's the link to my buildup thread:

http://lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=36312&highlight=

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2006 LTD 3.7L
Tow Package
Full Mopar skid set
Mopar front Tow hooks
Frankenlift II Premium
Al's Gen 4.5 A-arms
Boulder Bars
SpiderTrax 1.25" Spacers
Goodyear Silent Armors 245/70/17

Thanks for the link

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2006 Liberty Sport