Discussion of d30a fitments

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:33 pm

Thanks a lot Jon. Great info!

sandiegodave · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:27 pm

I was e-mailed to add my 2 cents to this thread.
Yes I split my front diff with a Truetracs which I think has a design flaw.
I talked to others that have installed a Truetracs and the ones that split had the same story.
“It was not a major 4 wheel drive obstacle that split my diff, it was a small uphill obsticle!”
Whenever you are going uphill and your wheels start to spin when you let off the gas you start rolling backwards and then when you touch the brakes to stop your roll the front lockers instantly lock with a klunk. This is when your front diff splits.

I have to say when I checked into having a front locker install at several shops in San Diego they all said the front diff in the Jeep is too weak and their liability would not allow them to install one. I then had it installed by our club. After it split I left the front open but put an air locker in the back.

PS, After I split my front diff I washed my Jeep and I took my Jeep to the dealer and played dumb. I said I needed an oil change and asked if they could check under my Jeep because I smelled oil and I think there might be a problem. When they saw the split diff they said that should never have happen and replaced it for free.

jerbacher · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:14 pm

sandiegodave wrote:

I was e-mailed to add my 2 cents to this thread.
Yes I split my front diff with a Truetracs which I think has a design flaw.
I talked to others that have installed a Truetracs and the ones that split had the same story.
“It was not a major 4 wheel drive obstacle that split my diff, it was a small uphill obsticle!”
Whenever you are going uphill and your wheels start to spin when you let off the gas you start rolling backwards and then when you touch the brakes to stop your roll the front lockers instantly lock with a klunk. This is when your front diff splits.

I have to say when I checked into having a front locker install at several shops in San Diego they all said the front diff in the Jeep is too weak and their liability would not allow them to install one. I then had it installed by our club. After it split I left the front open but put an air locker in the back.

PS, After I split my front diff I washed my Jeep and I took my Jeep to the dealer and played dumb. I said I needed an oil change and asked if they could check under my Jeep because I smelled oil and I think there might be a problem. When they saw the split diff they said that should never have happen and replaced it for free.

FOR FREE???!!! :shock:

WTF?? thats awesome, but i have never heard of that happening. but, i wish i had and could have had that happen to me!

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:15 pm

Thanks Dave for adding your info!! BTW what size tires did you have on your Liberty and does it have ESP or traction control?

sandiegodave · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:46 pm

Back-n-Black wrote:

Thanks Dave for adding your info!! BTW what size tires did you have on your Liberty and does it have ESP or traction control?

LT245/75R16 BFG A/T KO's
No ESP but I purchased my Jeep with traction control but I believe thats only in the rear.

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:04 pm

Thanks again Dave. Info added to second post.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:41 pm

jsc7002 wrote:

Back-n-Black wrote:

Thanks for the opinion, I appreciate it. But $1500 is not my opinion of a smart investment for a weak front diff.

haha sorry I was just wanting to mess with ya, $1500 is too much for me too which is why I dont have one lol, but the good thing about buying the ARB or DTT is that when you go SFA, if you use the HP D30 it should fit in there. :twisted:

Gee it only cost $800 for the ARB + install on my new front diff,and that was a brand new ARB also(for a D44 though).Granted I already have the pump(which is only $150).

And of yet now one has blown a D30A with a ARB installed.I would have went with a ARB in front but decided the DTT was a better choice since I use 4wd in snow/ice conditions and the DTT rocks when up front in those conditions and can be "fooled" into locking,and yes it works I have done it many,many times with witnesses.I even think I got a vid somewhere.

InCommando · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:05 pm

You certainly can fool a DTT into spinning both tires.

Before we get to down on the KJ too much, remember all of the Wranglers & XJ's sold with that time-bomb known as the D35 ( a few KJj's, too, but not that many.) I think the D35 issue is worse, but they are easier to swap out than a D30a. And none of the KJ's competition is hitting the trails at all, so no one knows what the tolerances for abuse of a CRV, RAV4, VUE, etc... are.

Inc · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:16 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

jsc7002 wrote:

Back-n-Black wrote:

Thanks for the opinion, I appreciate it. But $1500 is not my opinion of a smart investment for a weak front diff.

haha sorry I was just wanting to mess with ya, $1500 is too much for me too which is why I dont have one lol, but the good thing about buying the ARB or DTT is that when you go SFA, if you use the HP D30 it should fit in there. :twisted:

Gee it only cost $800 for the ARB + install on my new front diff,and that was a brand new ARB also(for a D44 though).Granted I already have the pump(which is only $150).

And of yet now one has blown a D30A with a ARB installed.I would have went with a ARB in front but decided the DTT was a better choice since I use 4wd in snow/ice conditions and the DTT rocks when up front in those conditions and can be "fooled" into locking,and yes it works I have done it many,many times with witnesses.I even think I got a vid somewhere.

$800 for the locker, 5-6 hours of labor @ $75 an hour and $150 pump which puts you right around $1300+ for a KJ. There are way fewer running ARBs up front in their KJs which is why we haven't seen one blow. ARBs are sweet but not the cure to the weak front diff.

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:26 pm

InCommando wrote:

You certainly can fool a DTT into spinning both tires.

Before we get to down on the KJ too much, remember all of the Wranglers & XJ's sold with that time-bomb known as the D35 ( a few KJj's, too, but not that many.) I think the D35 issue is worse, but they are easier to swap out than a D30a. And none of the KJ's competition is hitting the trails at all, so no one knows what the tolerances for abuse of a CRV, RAV4, VUE, etc... are.

X's two
Love all of this trash talk about the D30a and like its the end of the world, doesn't matter how many have wheeled theirs with no problems. Wonder what the percentage is of busted D30a's of all Libertys out there?
But I have said enough, just sitting eating a bag of popcorn and laughing looking at my spare D30a with a DTT.

Inc · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:44 pm

What percentage of those not broken get wheeled? Really wheeled? I'm not saying that Rav 4s or CRVs are better equipped than KJs but the D30a is weak period. Judging alone on its aluminum housing.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:15 pm

Inc wrote:

What percentage of those not broken get wheeled? Really wheeled? I'm not saying that Rav 4s or CRVs are better equipped than KJs but the D30a is weak period. Judging alone on its aluminum housing.

It's not just a KJ thing.FJ's are breaking front diff's left and right and they are "supposed" to be stronger.I'm not saying the D30A is strong but it is not weak either and when driven with a little care will survive with no problems,this is where driving skill comes into play.I know USAFCOP's and my D30A's have held up to some pretty knarly trails here in CO,greatly more difficult then what most would ever take there KJ's on.I've not seen one IFS front diff that is going to survive no matter what you throw at it,not even a cast or steel one.I've broken many(and have replaced many) H1 diffs,front and rear.They will break,any diff can break.I've even blown a 5ton Rockwell and also a 20ton Eaton diff,they all break.

Now some will think well he's doing a SFA swap so what does he know or care? The reason,the only reason actually,is so I can regear properly and while I'm going through all the trouble I might as well make it strong and not replace one so called turd with another one.

Inc · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:20 pm

I know it isn't just a KJ, not even close. Why do you think those newer FJs have those "bolt in" SFA kits readily available for them, because their front ends are weak just like the KJ. I have wheeled my KJ hard and it has held up fine. Would it hold to the stuff I plan on doing with my D30? No way. The D30a is a weak diff, but it is more than enough for 90+% of the KJ owners out there.

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:37 pm

since we are on the subject, i blew the front D out 3 years ago cranking up a muddy hill, only had DL in the rear, after I went DTT in the front. so far so good, and yes, you can fool a DTT. but also Im a bit more aware of what im dealing with up front.

Silverdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:33 am

I'm pretty sure BOTH of the CRD's listed are 2005 models and definitely there was no ESP/traction control available. That's one of the "diesel differences" between 05 and 06 as ALL 06's diesels have ESP.

But now just wondering if any of the gasser models on that list are 06 or better as they are all ESP equipped also.

For a fact elements of ESP are still functioning even in 4LO and so with ESP a driver would never pound down on a spinning front wheel as ESP would be applying the brake to said wheel as the open D30A is trying to get power to the wheel thats spinning slower or not spinning at all. Umm maybe thats why we really haven't heard of KK's with exploded front diffs.

I had a spotter tell me he's seen an off the ground front wheel "slow its spin down" while the other is spinning up grabbing traction while on the dirt. So Umm-- My diesel is an 06 BTW

HTH

Roland

Inc · **Posted:** Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:42 am

The KK has a different front diff.

Silverdiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:47 am

Still an aluminum shell though, Correct?

Inc · **Posted:** Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:49 am

Silverdiesel wrote:

Still an aluminum shell though, Correct?

Good question, but I do know it has a bunch of ribbing on it that is there for added strength.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:54 am

Inc wrote:

Silverdiesel wrote:

Still an aluminum shell though, Correct?

Good question, but I do know it has a bunch of ribbing on it that is there for added strength.

yeah its still Au, but it does have extra ribbing for strength and can accept more gear ratios then the KJ D30a

Inc · **Posted:** Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:04 am

jsc7002 wrote:

Inc wrote:

Silverdiesel wrote:

Still an aluminum shell though, Correct?

Good question, but I do know it has a bunch of ribbing on it that is there for added strength.

yeah its still Au, but it does have extra ribbing for strength and can accept more gear ratios then the KJ D30a

It is made of gold?

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