Well, that's just a bummer! So from what I am understanding, I could spend another $3k for a lift and get 33" tires under there and the result would be all the stuff that gets hi centered in the deep ruts would only be 1" higher than it is now? That's just depressing.
Then I have to worry about the front diff exploding trying to turn the bigger tires.

Then unless I am still confused, there's no advantage of this kit over the FL II if in both cases your running 32" tires. In fact, the FL II is actually better due to lower center of gravity and better fuel economy. I can see light bulbs going off in my head

I fully admit I can be missing something though.

_________________
2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

Nope your really not missing anything.

Actually going from 235/85 to a "33" there would only be slight over HALF an inch of additional ground clearance... It's Radius that gets you clearance not diameter... So a 6" lift, with our front diff. in mind, is only to be six inches higher than a stocker in terms of ground clearance

Dave

Ground clearance is measured at the lowest point of the vehicle,on the KJ that would be the rear diff,not the front.

Yes the Rear diff which would be raised .64 inches by changing from a 235/85 to a 33" diameter tire because only half the diameter (the radius) is under the rear axle...

Oh I was making the point of the fronts weakness, and being unable to run larger tires say a 33,34,35 even if we had the room

I'll be running 35" tires soon,and yes there is room to fit 35" tires under a KJ(nothing a sawsall won't fix ),now the D30A won't handle 35" tires or let alone 33" tires if wheeled some what hard.

I just think if you want to go bigger than the Frankenlift II or any 2.5" lift and run anything bigger than a 265/75, then you should probably go the SFA route. Someone on here just complied a cheap SFA price list and it isn't that much more than the 6" kit, and with a SFA you can run 35s like a few others around here. There are way too many downsides to the 6" kit and not really that many things gained by it. Yes it looks cool, and it sits nice and high above other kjs, but all I see gained by the 6" kit is more articulation, and for $3k... no thanks.

_________________
My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

Unfortunately, this has been an eye-opening series of posts. Thanks for bringing me back down to earth....I guess.

_________________
2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

Looks nice but $4K?Ouch.I've done some pretty tough trails with a 3 inches,a locker and 245/75 MT/Rs.Slow steady line choices are the key.That said I want a HP D44 up front.

_________________
'02 KJ sport
3.7 V6
45RFE/NP231J
Frankenlifted
Powertrax no-slip
Cook Bros. Diff guard
Skids front to back
RRO rock rails
10LB PowerTank
245/75-16 MT/R

Throw in a NV241OR and I'm in, too!

_________________
Ron


"There are few problems in life the liberal application of duct tape can't solve."

That's it hey, I've made it up stuff that others have slipped on due to line. I've also struggled on trails only to have Ed in his KJ glide up with no problems.

_________________
Member No: 152595
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs

Lifted by CRDSTU
265/70/16 STT's on 16x8 Chrome Soft 8's
CDKJ