LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Clevis Lift Again

for all the effort that you have put into this you could have gotten a Daystar lift. :roll:

Most people that have done this clevis lift have never even used a spacer. Very few have had problems with this.

The spacer is just an added option to ensure that both sides are even and in case that you don't properly tork the the bolt properly it won't slip back down.

Are you stock? If so, the only problem that you could have with the spacer being to thick is UBJC. With the ome shocks it would be way to much, Im not to sure about the rancho shocks. Im sure someone else will know if they would hit with that thick a spacer.

I really don't think shocks have any bearing on this matter, all they do is increase the moment of inertia.......so you don't bounce

kj@best wrote:

I really don't think shocks have any bearing on this matter, all they do is increase the moment of inertia.......so you don't bounce

Yes it does matter. UBJC stands for Upper ball joint contact. The stock shocks do not let the suspension drop as much as the Old man emu shocks do(I did mean ome). When you do a cleavis lift, you move the entire suspension down letting it get even closer to the spring. Someone with a 3/8in cleavis lift with stock shocks needs to chime in and tell you how close they are to getting UBJC and that will tell you if you can get anymore lift out of it. Or you can just put them in and see for yourself. It gets kinda old taking that front suspension apart though.

This is my suspension with the OME shocks. I purty close to getting UBJC.

Mine was the same before the lift. I only had 6.5in under the skid. When they made the libby back in 2001, that made them 3/4in higher than the current libbys. In the end of 2002 or whenever it was, they lowered them by putting shorter springs in them b/c of rollover. Thus giving you the stupid looking cv angles.

OK I have the Rancho struts and OME Heavy duty spring with 4 conduit nuts under it and it is not even close to looking like jeepjeepsters. The bottom of my strut is just up in the clevis a little bit, not even enough to measure. I think it all depends on what stuts you are using as far as to where it will sit at. I would think that it would be OK but hey it is not that big of a deal to tear everything apart to take them out if too close

I have 1 conduit nut under mine in that pic.

You can see it in that pic. Its almost level with the bottom. I wouldnt worry about that, you will run into ball-joint problems before you do that.

Thats sounds like spring sag.

Or has that already been established?

Author:	jason thompson [ Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:19 pm ]
Post subject:	Clevis Lift Again
ok one last clevis lift question i have 2 options for the lift i have the 3/8" aluminum spacers but when i cut 1 i did not notice that the spacer had moved in the drill press and cut a little offcenter i dont think it that big a deal i also just found 2 spacers ,yes they were made to be spacers just not for this, they measure od=3 1/2" id=2 1/8" and they are 7/16" thick this is just a 1/16" thicker than the popular 3/8" and in the tech section the artical talked bout 5/8" so would it be safe and resonable to go with these? they are nice machined pcs so if i just spray them black they will look like they were made to be there what do yall think

Author:	tarkus [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 12:03 am ]
Post subject:
for all the effort that you have put into this you could have gotten a Daystar lift. Most people that have done this clevis lift have never even used a spacer. Very few have had problems with this. The spacer is just an added option to ensure that both sides are even and in case that you don't properly tork the the bolt properly it won't slip back down.

Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 12:24 pm ]
Post subject:
tarkus wrote: for all the effort that you have put into this you could have gotten a Daystar lift. Most people that have done this clevis lift have never even used a spacer. Very few have had problems with this. The spacer is just an added option to ensure that both sides are even and in case that you don't properly tork the the bolt properly it won't slip back down. i put no real effort in to getting the parts just the info the 2 alum pcs were cut from 3" bar stock for me by one of my customers for free i am the on who frecked up the center hole and did that on company time as far as the other two steel pcs again i found those at another customer and asked for some that were used and presto here ya go thats why i got what i got i just wanted to know if the 7/16 would be to thick?

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 12:40 pm ]
Post subject:
Are you stock? If so, the only problem that you could have with the spacer being to thick is UBJC. With the ome shocks it would be way to much, Im not to sure about the rancho shocks. Im sure someone else will know if they would hit with that thick a spacer.

Author:	kj@best [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 1:00 pm ]
Post subject:
I really don't think shocks have any bearing on this matter, all they do is increase the moment of inertia.......so you don't bounce

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Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 1:06 pm ]
Post subject:
Jeepjeepster wrote: Are you stock? If so, the only problem that you could have with the spacer being to thick is UBJC. With the ome shocks it would be way to much, Im not to sure about the rancho shocks. Im sure someone else will know if they would hit with that thick a spacer. yes i am stock what do you meaan by "UBJC" and do you mean oem (original equipment mfg) not ome (old mam emu)? and if a 3/8" on stock is ok and 7/16" is to thick maby I should go less then 3/8"

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 1:50 pm ]
Post subject:
kj@best wrote: I really don't think shocks have any bearing on this matter, all they do is increase the moment of inertia.......so you don't bounce Yes it does matter. UBJC stands for Upper ball joint contact. The stock shocks do not let the suspension drop as much as the Old man emu shocks do(I did mean ome). When you do a cleavis lift, you move the entire suspension down letting it get even closer to the spring. Someone with a 3/8in cleavis lift with stock shocks needs to chime in and tell you how close they are to getting UBJC and that will tell you if you can get anymore lift out of it. Or you can just put them in and see for yourself. It gets kinda old taking that front suspension apart though. Ohh, it only takes one hit with that UBJC to destroy that ball joint. It puts a really small tare in it and it only gets worse from there. So be very careful with that. This is my suspension with the OME shocks. I purty close to getting UBJC.

Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:02 pm ]
Post subject:
Jeepjeepster wrote: kj@best wrote: I really don't think shocks have any bearing on this matter, all they do is increase the moment of inertia.......so you don't bounce Yes it does matter. UBJC stands for Upper ball joint contact. The stock shocks do not let the suspension drop as much as the Old man emu shocks do(I did mean ome). When you do a cleavis lift, you move the entire suspension down letting it get even closer to the spring. Someone with a 3/8in cleavis lift with stock shocks needs to chime in and tell you how close they are to getting UBJC and that will tell you if you can get anymore lift out of it. Or you can just put them in and see for yourself. It gets kinda old taking that front suspension apart though. This is my suspension with the OME shocks. I purty close to getting UBJC. now i see what you are refering to last night i was looking at that on the KJ and looking at it for what started all this it is "sagging" in the frontwhen you look at the front suspension all of the "sprung" components are lower than the "nonsprung" compnents in other words the axel side of the cv shaft is about 1/4" lower than the tire side of the shaft almost like someone is standing on the bumper but nothing is differant from stock both the UBJ and LBJ's are in a reverse position from the ones in your pic it is almost "lowered" if i jack up the front from the ground it needs to move about 1/2 inch to get to what looks normal and i would like to get about 1/4 to 1/2 over that it is still the wifes DD for about another year and she goes into a lot of parking lots that barely clear it now

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:31 pm ]
Post subject:
Mine was the same before the lift. I only had 6.5in under the skid. When they made the libby back in 2001, that made them 3/4in higher than the current libbys. In the end of 2002 or whenever it was, they lowered them by putting shorter springs in them b/c of rollover. Thus giving you the stupid looking cv angles.

Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 3:12 pm ]
Post subject:
Jeepjeepster wrote: Mine was the same before the lift. I only had 6.5in under the skid. When they made the libby back in 2001, that made them 3/4in higher than the current libbys. In the end of 2002 or whenever it was, they lowered them by putting shorter springs in them b/c of rollover. Thus giving you the stupid looking cv angles. so am i to assume from that ,that putting in a spacer of either 7/16 or 3/8 it would be fine

Author:	tommudd [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 3:57 pm ]
Post subject:
OK I have the Rancho struts and OME Heavy duty spring with 4 conduit nuts under it and it is not even close to looking like jeepjeepsters. The bottom of my strut is just up in the clevis a little bit, not even enough to measure. I think it all depends on what stuts you are using as far as to where it will sit at. I would think that it would be OK but hey it is not that big of a deal to tear everything apart to take them out if too close

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 4:41 pm ]
Post subject:
tommudd wrote: OK I have the Rancho struts and OME Heavy duty spring with 4 conduit nuts under it and it is not even close to looking like jeepjeepsters. The bottom of my strut is just up in the clevis a little bit, not even enough to measure. I think it all depends on what stuts you are using as far as to where it will sit at. I would think that it would be OK but hey it is not that big of a deal to tear everything apart to take them out if too close That with my wheel off the ground, you know that right. Thats when it will hit it, not while its sitting on the ground.

Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:42 pm ]
Post subject:
tommudd wrote: OK I have the Rancho struts and OME Heavy duty spring with 4 conduit nuts under it and it is not even close to looking like jeepjeepsters. The bottom of my strut is just up in the clevis a little bit, not even enough to measure. I think it all depends on what stuts you are using as far as to where it will sit at. I would think that it would be OK but hey it is not that big of a deal to tear everything apart to take them out if too close do you have a picture? how thick is each nut? the bigger question is realy how much strut needs to be left in the clevis?

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:20 pm ]
Post subject:
I have 1 conduit nut under mine in that pic.

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Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:47 pm ]
Post subject:
Jeepjeepster wrote: I have 1 conduit nut under mine in that pic. about how much strut is left in the clevis

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:49 pm ]
Post subject:
You can see it in that pic. Its almost level with the bottom. I wouldnt worry about that, you will run into ball-joint problems before you do that.

Author:	jason thompson [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:30 pm ]
Post subject:
Jeepjeepster wrote: You can see it in that pic. Its almost level with the bottom. I wouldnt worry about that, you will run into ball-joint problems before you do that. maby you are missing the reason why i am doing this it all started when i noticed that every thing on the front end is in a "reverse bind" not to the up side but to the down side like the jeep is being pushed down or the front end gained about 300 lbs but ever thing is still stock in order to get the ball joints and the cv shafts strait i need to jack the center under the skid plate up about 1/2" now because i am very "frugal" i am trying to fix it with as little money as i can and get about another year out of it so i saw where other used this as a method to gain a little extra lift so i decided to see if it would work for me but at the same time as being "frugal" i am also very particular about how things work i appreciate all the input though keep it comeing

Author:	JFortier777 [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:38 pm ]
Post subject:
Thats sounds like spring sag. Or has that already been established?

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:40 pm ]
Post subject:
Haha, I understand this fully and have the entire time. Did you read where I said its normal for the CV's to have a Negative tilt since they lowered the libby? Mine was the same way before the lift. But like I said, before you run into not having enough strut in the cleavis, the upper ball joint will hit the spring while at full droop so you do not need to worry about that. Im trying to give you all the info I know about this!!

Author:	Jeepjeepster [ Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:41 pm ]
Post subject:
JFortier777 wrote: Thats sounds like spring sag. Or has that already been established? No, its not spring sag. It makes total since that he must raise his jeep a 1/2in to make the cv's level since they lowered them 3/4in!