I did a Rusty Lift today-

Matt400 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:07 pm

First I want to say thanks for all the advise and recommendations everyone gave cuz this is our first Jeep and I am new to making changes on a Liberty.

When I opened the box I was surprised to see yellow front struts and white rear shocks, I am anal about that kind of thing but let it go cuz you really don't see it much on a Liberty when its all installed.

In doing the rear I noticed two things:
1) It seems like there should be a 2.5" spacer on the "Y" shaped differential lateral support bar. I think it would make for better flex and not be so hard on the bars mounting bushings if it were kept in its intended location.

2) The supplied washers to take up the gap in the top shock mounting bracket had too big of inside diameter- 3/4", using those allowed the washer to slip over the shocks center eye sleeve and crush down the body's shock mount so I used smaller ones- 1/2" to butt up against the sleeve. I don't understand why they would make a mistake like that.

I removed the rear brake line bracket bolt at the body during the install so as not to stretch the line and then put it back afterwards as it still looks long enough. I unclipped the rear speed sensor harness from the lateral support bar and left it that way.
The rear shocks I noted are 1.5" longer than stock.

The front was pretty straight forward for me cuz I have done many strut replacements on other vehicles. Rusty's was nice cuz there is no specific location for the spring, strut, top mounting plate orientation like the factory does so you just assemble it up but being the anal person I am, I made sure Rusty's strut sticker and coil spring lettering lined up and faced out.

I bent the brake line at the caliper up just a tad for more slack and if you do this make sure to turn the wheel to full lock to make sure it doesn't get pinched between the strut and spindle when turning.

I was worried I was going to get a stiff ride because the front coils are thicker and longer while the strut itself was only .5" longer than the stock one. Funny they call it a "long travel" strut but I suppose you can do that since it is that .5" more. Ride I think is better than stock both on and off road so the strut action and spring rate must be matched up pretty well.

As advertised it raised the front exactly 2.5" while the rear went up 2.75" I took those measurements after driving it a little to settle things in.
Alignment worked out ok, I had to max out the Caster settings on the vehicle to barely get it into the minimum factory spec while maintaining near vertical Camber.

I modified the front wheel well pinch weld by cutting the plastic and smashing it over to the inside, then added some flat black paint so the wife wouldn't be too upset...so far she likes it and has not noticed the surgery there.

In a few days the tires and wheels get changed to 16x8 with 5.5" bs and 245/75R16 Load C, I hope they fit. There is a little room to do a clevis lift still if I need to.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:28 pm

We have been waiting for an rear A-Arm spacer for a while...I think Jeepin Al has made a custom one.

AllJs Products has the correct sleeve ( instead of washers ) to fit the rear shocks without any knocking.

Just watch your UBJoints closely...they will probably hit under full droop. Jeepin Als ( or Rustys ) has a better UBJ Arm that should solve that issue and help with alingment.

The 5.5" backspacing might bring the wheels "in" too far...the fronts move in as a result of the lift itself...but every KJ is just a little different. The Jeepin Al UBJ Arm might help there too...

Matt400 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:50 pm

DarbyWalters wrote:

We have been waiting for an rear A-Arm spacer for a while...I think Jeepin Al has made a custom one.

I would like to change that, either a spacer between the joint and bracket or just a bracket extension at the differential.

Quote:

Just watch your UBJoints closely...they will probably hit under full droop.

Right now it doesn't but will keep that in check if I change the clevis any, thanks.

Quote:

The 5.5" backspacing might bring the wheels "in" too far...the fronts move in as a result of the lift itself

I had not thought of that. My second wheel idea was a custom made 16x7 with 5" bs. but the wife wasn't too keen on those and its her Jeep so we will see what happens.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:04 am

5.5 BS is the stock BS. 5" BS makes the jeep look really nice. Its kinda confusing to think about, but if you get the 16x7 rims with 5" BS, they wouldnt stick out as far as a 16x8 rim with 5" BS. Make sense?

Matt400 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:45 pm

Jeepjeepster wrote:

5.5 BS is the stock BS. 5" BS makes the jeep look really nice. Its kinda confusing to think about, but if you get the 16x7 rims with 5" BS, they wouldn't stick out as far as a 16x8 rim with 5" BS. Make sense?

Sure does, my reasoning for 7" is the 75 series tire fits it better and with 5" BS I would lessen the chance of sway bar rubbing.
I test fit one of the tire & wheel assemblies today and its all good with the 8" wheel and 5.5" BS. A little trimming on the plastic below the fog lamp door was needed though.

Se7enLC · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 1:05 pm

The Frankenlift with OME front struts looks the same way (Yellow up front, Red + White out back). I sorta wish I got some OME rear shocks to match in the rear, but the ranchos are doing quite nicely

Matt400 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 1:59 pm

Since the Libby all ready had a rack to it stock and the lift added 2.75"" to the rear I did a 3/8" Clevis mod today but that puts the UBJ real close to the coil, I would like to rotate the coil for better clearance but doubt thats possible while in the vehicle. Anyone do that?

Actually I wouldn't mind lowering the back instead but don't see how thats possible with the current coils.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:37 pm

I would wait alittle while to see if anything settles. It took my rear ome coils around 2 months to settle all the way. I had around 2.25-2.5in lift and it went down to around 2". :wink:

If you have anything really heavy(dead people, bags of concrete), put that in the back to aid in settling...

I also need to turn my front coils. I guess we would have to take the front end back apart and take the coil overs out and compress them. :cry:

kolesy · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:12 pm

Quote:

When I opened the box I was surprised to see yellow front struts and white rear shocks, I am anal about that kind of thing but let it go cuz you really don't see it much on a Liberty when its all installed.

You can order the yellow shock boots for the rear from rustys to match things up. Thats what i did.

Matt400 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 6:17 pm

kolesy wrote:

You can order the yellow shock boots for the rear from rustys to match things up. Thats what i did.

Didn't know that, they coulda up-sold me on those cuz I don't like the bare un protected shafts.

kolesy · **Posted:** Mon Aug 28, 2006 6:27 pm

Yeah it was crap luck when i ordered them. I wanted shock boots, and I like yellow so i got the yellow ones. I had no idea the front dtruts were yellow at the time either. :lol:

just lucked out. They are only like 3 bucks too,

Elwenil · **Posted:** Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:26 am

Typically the boots just hold dirt and water against the shaft. It's better just to leave them open in most cases, just keep them clean.

I did a Rusty Lift today-

Who is online