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 Post subject: fenderwell sheet metal problem
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:41 pm 
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I'm running rockcrawler wheels with 3.75 backspacing and 31x10.50 tires which causes the tires to stick out just a hair past the fender flares. I looks like the wheel stuffed up into the wheel well rubbing not only the plastic fender flares but the sheet metal lip of the body as well. When the tire drooped it pulled the sheet metal lip down away from the body.

Has anyone else ever had this problem or is there an accepted fix for this? I don't want it cutting up my tires, so I was going to just pound it back into place and fold it completely flat/vertical.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Here's a pic of the problem. Sorry for the large image size. You can see the pulled down section of sheet metal at about the 10 to 11 o'clock position of the wheel well.

Image
Image
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Last edited by gastip on Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:15 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:45 pm 
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Not sure which exact 'sheet metal' part you are referring too. Can you pls post pics for us to help you :) !!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:51 pm 
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I'll try to get a pic up in a few minutes. Thanks Oz!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:11 am 
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You must be talking about the back tires? Ive heard of this before, not to sure what people do about it though?

You could just add a bumpstop so the rear wouldnt flex as much. Of course you would loose some flex though.. :?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:18 am 
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I added some pics to the original post.

Jeepster I was thinking of that or spring isolators for more lift in the back.

The sheetmetal made some pretty deep slices into the tires where it hit, but fortunately it's just hitting lugs and not sidewall.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:29 am 
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I had the same problem with my old rims(BS 3.75") switched to rims with 4.25" BS and cured that problem.Try pounding the sheetmetal up,might help a little,but your rims are the main problem.Extending your rear bumbstops will help but you will lose articulation.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:46 am 
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I just bought some 1.99 hockey pucks, drilled them and the lower bump stop then thread tapped it to take a 3/8" bolt. A cheapie solution that should keep my tires from rubbing the top of the wheel well.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:45 pm 
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You can also take a dremmel (or similiar cutting tool) and remove just under 3/4" of metal around the wheelwell. Then you have to remove the bottom door gasket and find one that fits the trimmed fenderwell to keep water out of the cabin. I did that on my old 2002KJ and it solved the problem for the most part. I had 16X7's with 4.75" bs with 265/75/16's. I think with the 3.75"bs you might still have problems.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:17 pm 
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Thanks guys. I'll pound that back into place and try the bumpstops and see how that goes. I can't afford to switch rims and like the ones that I have anyway. If the bumpstops don't work then I consider cutting sheetmetal.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:11 pm 
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When I raced for Mazda, we used to use the poor mans method to add flairs to gain room for different tires. You take a baseball bat or piece of exhaust pipe and put it on the tire and fender...you move the car forward and backward to 'roll" the lip under. If you need more room you can actually use the same method to "push" the fender out a bit with a bigger pipe...and the tech guys couldn't figure it out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:03 pm 
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Ha Ha that's good stuff Darby! I've heard of people 'rolling' fenders before but didn't know what it meant.

I might give that a shot because that's the effect I'm looking for. I just want the lip folded up against itself for clearance and so it won't cut the tire.

What are the odds that I can mess something up doing it?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:34 pm 
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I had the same problem...
I trimmed them slightly then rolled them. Problem solved. It got so bad before it got fixed that I almost tore the flare off when the rear doors closed.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:10 pm 
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Yeah I was the same as ARBseth. nearly tore the rear door flare off.

I used a Dremel and trimmed the plastic flare back then got a hard plastic hammer and 'rolled' ;) the guard metal up - no probs here. Only thing is that it cracks the paint on the fold, cause you're taking it past its stardard 90Degree angle. I just got some kill rust black gloss paint and applied. Black hides everything :P!!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:33 am 
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Sweet Oz, I was worrying about cracking the paint and creating a nice trough for muddy water to collect in and generate rust.

I might try and fill the open end of the fold with some sort of sealant or paint after cleaning it really good.

Thanks guys!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:04 am 
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Good idea, but just remember it is a Galvanised body so it will only develop some surface rust, not the sort that eats an old car out in seconds.......

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