ARB air lockers & compressor info

Ivan · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:24 pm

Hello, are the RD100 and RD93 the correct ARB part numbers for the KJ ARB Air Lockers (front and rear respectively)? I have the stock 3.73 ratio axles.

Is anyone using the ARB RD104 front air locker for the Dana 30 with a 30 spline, 33.3 (1.31") axle shaft? If so, can you tell me where you bought the locker and the shafts, and your experience with this set-up so far?

Also, has anyone mounted an ARB RDCKA compressor in the engine compartment? I would like to know where you mounted it and how it's working out. I need some mounting ideas because I don't see much room under the hood, and all the interior room is accounted for by other stuff. I will go with the smaller ARB CKSA12 if the RDCKA doesn't fit, but would rather have the RDCKA because I can use it for more than just the lockers.

I did free up a little room on the passenger side by replacing the stock air filter box with an AEM Brute Force air intake.

Thanks, Ivan.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:46 pm

Check the space between the airbox and the firewall. You would have to move some things around, but it can be done.

Terry

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2007 3:13 pm

The ARB for a 30-spline dana30 will not work,you need the 27-spline ARB for the dana30.Nobody makes CV's for the KJ with 30-splines so you have to use the 27-spline shafts(OEM) and 27-slpine ARB. PM USAFCOP,he's got ARB's front and rear.Here is a pic of where I mounted my ARB mini compressor,you need the K&N or AFE induction kit to mount loke mine though.

lilmatty · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2007 3:51 pm

Plenty of room. Built a mount bracket out of a hunk of steel and mount it with the existing firewall bolts.

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2007 4:41 pm

Ivan wrote:

Also, has anyone mounted an ARB RDCKA compressor in the engine compartment? I would like to know where you mounted it and how it's working out. I need some mounting ideas because I don't see much room under the hood, and all the interior room is accounted for by other stuff. I will go with the smaller ARB CKSA12 if the RDCKA doesn't fit, but would rather have the RDCKA because I can use it for more than just the lockers.

I mounted my RDCKA like lilmatty (his idea-works great), BUT though it "can" be used for other things, it's really not that great to fill tires. Takes way too long. Good if your in a jam, but if thats what you want, get a real OBA system and run your locker off that. Takes about 10 min/tire to go from 17 PSI to 35. I dont use it unless I have to.

Ivan · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:27 am

Thanks guys, I appreciate the pics and info.

Do any of you know where I can get a 24 volt version of the RDCKA? The ARB spec sheet says that it is available, but haven't found one on line yet. Are there any disadvantages to the 24v version? I am assuming that the more robust motor will inflate a tire faster, but we know how assumptions go.

Thanks, Ivan.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:16 am

Ivan wrote:

Thanks guys, I appreciate the pics and info.

Do any of you know where I can get a 24 volt version of the RDCKA? The ARB spec sheet says that it is available, but haven't found one on line yet. Are there any disadvantages to the 24v version? I am assuming that the more robust motor will inflate a tire faster, but we know how assumptions go.

Thanks, Ivan.

I dont know about the 24v vs the 12v but I would think that the compressor piston would be the same size and thus move the same air cfm wise
I can tell you this we just a few weeks ago did a head to head my co2 set up vs a viair set up with I think a 450 compressor
the guy said that he liked it because "it filled tires fast"
The co2 cost me way less and filled tires 2.5 to 1 as far as time goes

That being said I would buy the small compressor for lockers and get a co2 set up for tires and tools

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:43 am

The 24 volt and 12 v should run at the same speed, the 24 volt just uses 1/2 the amps to do the same job. In DC systems you could conceivably run the 12 v compressor on 24 volts with no ill effects if it didn't overspeed the pump and start throwing pieces at you. We used to use the old 6V starters in the V-8 conversions in the old days because they were built heavier (had to do the same job with half the voltage and twice the current flow so the wiring, etc. is heavier) and they really spooled up the V-8 on a cold morning.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:11 pm

You would need to switch your electrical system to 24 volts or run a second battery just to run the 24volt compressor.Stick with the 12volt one since your electrical system is already 12 volts.

Ivan · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2007 2:32 pm

OK, that all makes sense. I'll go with the 12V then.

Thanks, Ivan.

unixxx · **Posted:** Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:53 am

Ivan, the RD93 (rear) and RD100 (front) Air Lockers are correct for a Liberty with 3.73 gears.

You should look into a Viair 450C compressor. The RDCKA only produces 1CFM, has a 25% duty cycle, and costs $220, while the 450C produces 1.34CFM, has a 100% duty cycle, and only costs $190. You should also look into an onboard air tank if you want to fill tires.

http://arbusa.com/air_compressor/specifications.pdf
http://viaircorp.com/450c.html

If you're interested, I sell ARB Air Lockers and Viair compressors at http://www.c-comp.com

Ivan wrote:

Hello, are the RD100 and RD93 the correct ARB part numbers for the KJ ARB Air Lockers (front and rear respectively)? I have the stock 3.73 ratio axles.

Is anyone using the ARB RD104 front air locker for the Dana 30 with a 30 spline, 33.3 (1.31") axle shaft? If so, can you tell me where you bought the locker and the shafts, and your experience with this set-up so far?

Also, has anyone mounted an ARB RDCKA compressor in the engine compartment? I would like to know where you mounted it and how it's working out. I need some mounting ideas because I don't see much room under the hood, and all the interior room is accounted for by other stuff. I will go with the smaller ARB CKSA12 if the RDCKA doesn't fit, but would rather have the RDCKA because I can use it for more than just the lockers.

I did free up a little room on the passenger side by replacing the stock air filter box with an AEM Brute Force air intake.

Thanks, Ivan.

Ivan · **Posted:** Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:59 pm

Thanks for the info.

When I install the air lockers, that would be a good time to regear to 4.10 ring and pinions if I go to 265s.

I checked with a Jeep dealer, and I was told that I need the following Mopar parts and part numbers to re-gear the front: 5066085AA Gear Kit ($469.00); J8126499 Bearing Drive ($55.20); 5252508 Bearing Drive ($41.00); 50660523AA Seal Drive ($20.45); J8126500 Bearings ($73.25)

I was also told that the seals are included with the part, and that there is no way to determine which shim is needed until the tear down.

Is this correct? Was anything left out?

Also, I was told that with the rear dif you have to replace the rear carrier with the ring gear because DaimlerChrysler changed the bolt size. Is this true? Does it matter if I go with aftermarket ring & pinion gears like Yukon?

Ivan.

unixxx · **Posted:** Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:47 pm

Ivan, you don't need the front side bearings because the ARB RD100 Air Locker comes with them. You also don't need any seals other than the pinion seal. You do need to tear down the differential before you can determine the correct pinion shim thickness. You'll need a micrometer to measure the old shim thickness.

Install US Gear or Yukon gears in the rear; they're cheaper and stronger than Mopar gears and fit the ARB RD93 Air Locker fine.

Ivan · **Posted:** Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:48 am

OK, but which bearing parts are the ones that I need or don't need? The bearing drive, or the bearings?

I didn't know I needed a pinion seal, does Yukon make one? Would you happen to have a part number?

As far as the shim and micrometer go, I'm having this done at the Jeep dealer here. I'm in Germany and they are the only shop I can find that can do ANY of this. They probably have the micrometer (I will check to make sure).

Are shims the kind of thing that dealers have a variety of in stock? I can't afford to have my KJ down a long time while I wait for the correct shim to arrive. So if they don't have different shims on hand, I'm wondering if they are cheap enough where I can order a few different ones ahead of time to be ready.

Thanks, Ivan.

unixxx · **Posted:** Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:32 pm

You only need the "Bearing Drive" bearings, otherwise known as the pinion bearings. The RD100 includes new side bearings to replace the J8126500 "Bearings." Only Mopar makes the pinion seal. Any nearby dealership and worldpartsexpress.com can get it for you. You'll probably need to wait for the dealer to order the shim because there are over twenty different thicknesses. The shims are priced at around $10 each :shock:

If the dealership doesn't have a micrometer, run as fast as you can

Ivan · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2007 10:23 am

Great, thanks for the info. I'll hit up the dealer with the questions and take it from there.

Half the battle seems to be getting everything lined up, parts wise.

ARB air lockers & compressor info

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