J.E. Reel CVs

Wasatch15 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:52 am **Posts:** 242

Does anybody have experience with the JE Reel brand of CV joints/ halfshafts? I have been concerned about the way the CV boot pleats rub together on the original CV's since I installed the lift, especially since the post confirming boot damage from this very thing. I also tried sliding the small side of one inboard CV boot further down on the shaft, a bad thing to do. It may save the boot, but without the boot clamp groove, the clamp and boot want to slide up and down on the shaft (yes I clamped it tight, the shaft still shows signs of sliding). With the CV boot problems that started after installation of my lift and the weird sounds coming from inside my differential, I'm ready to remove the lift, go back to stock height, or purchase new parts and make this thing more heavy duty. I'm leaning toward the heavy duty parts (JE Reel CVs, DTT differential, see what's causing the differential rubbing sounds and fix it) but I don't want to put more money into that direction and find out some other problem. Is there a spring set out there that would get me back to less lift but hold up to the ARB Bumper? Your thoughts

2006KJSPORT4x4 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:53 am

I believe Mutt has them on his rig, perhaps PM him and find out for sure, but I don't think he has had any issues with them and they've held up well to his "abuse"... :wink:

phxtoad · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:32 am

I have them - but they've only been on for a week.

Keep in mind they re-build stock KJ shafts - they are not brand new aftermarket items.

I did notice when I was removing them from the box that they appeared to have way more articulation than the stock units that I shipped them. This might be due to having new internals, fresh grease, and more plyable boots - but I was impressed at how much they seemed to move.

Their boots are definitely more plyable than the stock ones - however since everything is in essentially the same place when installed, I'd assume that the pleats will still contact each other and rub.

Only time will tell. We'll see how they do in MOAB!

Todd

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:33 pm

If you want to drop down some sell the frankenlift get some OME heavy duty front coils and new struts and then you will be down about an inch to 1.5 inches at least. Could always tear apart the Franky and use the parts but that would be a shame. Wait just come to my house and I will trade ya! :lol:

Mutt · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2007 6:15 pm

Yes, I've got them. I've had no boot problems since installing the JE Reel shafts. No more broken CVs either.

"Abuse?" I wouldn't call it abuse, but my wife might agree with you.

Guest · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2007 3:27 am

What is a DTT differential? I'm dealing with some front end issues, & if this is what I'm hoping it is...

unixxx · **Posted:** Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:16 am

The Detroit Truetrac is a clutchless gear-based limited slip differential. It might be incompatible with the ESP system found in all 2006-2007 Jeep Libertys. Its gear-based carrier replaces the stock carrier. Ring and pinion gear set up is required. As with any other limited slip device installed in the front differential, it will make steering slightly stiffer and cause the steering wheel to spring back to center more quickly than usual.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liber ... t_TrueTrac

Guest · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:17 am

unixxx wrote:

The Detroit Truetrac is a clutchless gear-based limited slip differential. It might be incompatible with the ESP system found in all 2006-2007 Jeep Libertys. Its gear-based carrier replaces the stock carrier. Ring and pinion gear set up is required. As with any other limited slip device installed in the front differential, it will make steering slightly stiffer and cause the steering wheel to spring back to center more quickly than usual.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liber ... t_TrueTrac

Oh, that's not what I was hoping

, Thanks!

Wasatch15 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:52 am **Posts:** 242

Called J.E. Reel and talked to Scott. Found out their CV jionts are stronger but don't give more articulation then the original CV's. The boots are more flexible. Also found out the following;

Cost per side $385.00 (rebuilt shafts, none in stock)
Inboard CV boot, PN 86-2340-D $36.50
Outer CV boot, PN 86-2348-D $36.50

Milner · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:32 pm

So are these like the birfields the toyota guys are making....Are they just taking a stock CV and pressing a ring over it to stregthen it?

AndySRT · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2007 4:14 pm

birfields as far as i know are only on solid axle toyota. It's pretty common for them to brake with bigger tires even with the ring. as far as your question I have no idea how JE reel does the upgrades.

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2007 4:59 pm

They use the stock half shafts and just replace the race and bearings.

Milner · **Posted:** Wed Apr 18, 2007 11:17 pm

AndySRT wrote:

birfields as far as i know are only on solid axle toyota. It's pretty common for them to brake with bigger tires even with the ring. as far as your question I have no idea how JE reel does the upgrades.

CV's and Birfs are similar creaters, by different names....

J.E. Reel CVs

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