Can anybody explain to me the need for Al's a-arms if I lift?

I'm hoping to get lifted soon, and a lot of folk on here list Al's arms in their sig too.
Al says this on the site:

"The Jeepin' By Al Upper A-Arms were designed for your lifted Liberty and will directly replace your stock a-arms. The original equipment a-arm hits the spring, which causes premature ball joint failure on Liberty's with a lift kit. The Jeepin' By Al A-Arms are compatible with all the lift kits on the market today!"

How does it hit the spring? How does that hurt the bj's?

Sorry for stupid questions

Thanks.

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I aim to misbehave

This is what the contact looks like:



The bj's are not that strong to begin with so a few good hits and they are done for. If you have a spacer lift, the oem struts won't be far behind, imo. Save the costs of a lot of things (and the headache of trying to locate Al's arms) and just do this (Rusty's sus. lift):



Notice? No ball joint contact, what-so-ever!

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Ron


"There are few problems in life the liberal application of duct tape can't solve."

I don't have Al's arms because I currently have no need for them. At full droop the ubj has a tendancy to contact the coil spring. If you have bump stops you can reduce the chance of UBJ contact. Allj's has them on their Frankenlifts.

If you damage your stock UBJ you must replace the whole Upper Control Arm because they come as a pair. Al's arms are designed to eliminate UBJ contact. They also have replaceable ball joints.

Are they neccesary? IMO every KJ is different. Some need them and others get by just fine with the stockers.

Al's arms should be compatible with the KJ lifts on the market.

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2005 CRD , Moab Rims, 245/75/16 Goodyear M/T
RL rear bumper, TMJ Front bumper, Frankenlinft,
*TOTALED*

1985 Mitsubishi Pickup SP 2.3 Turbo Diesel Watercooled turbo,4D56 ported head,
12" Suspension Lift with JK Rubicon axles, Elockers, 5.13's, Fox coilovers, Atlas 5.0, Rock Lizard supersliders

1996 Lexus LX450 -locked and lifted-

Nice pics

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2005 CRD , Moab Rims, 245/75/16 Goodyear M/T
RL rear bumper, TMJ Front bumper, Frankenlinft,
*TOTALED*

1985 Mitsubishi Pickup SP 2.3 Turbo Diesel Watercooled turbo,4D56 ported head,
12" Suspension Lift with JK Rubicon axles, Elockers, 5.13's, Fox coilovers, Atlas 5.0, Rock Lizard supersliders

1996 Lexus LX450 -locked and lifted-

So it's likely that if I go for a proper spring lift not spacers, then Al's arms won't be required?

Thanks.

_________________
I aim to misbehave

Not necessarily...it depends more on the length of struts you use. Longer struts can equal more droop (a good thing), but can also mean some spring contact (not as good) due to the added articulation.

With Al's upper a-arms you may still have contact between the a-arm and springs. I still do on my Frankenlift and would assume it would be the same for the Daystar lifts because they use the same top plate. However, the springs is now contacting the steel ball joint bung as opposed to ripping the boot as with the stock A-arms. Either way a like piece of rubber/polyurethane acting as a lower extension bumpstop works. The new a-arms do help with the alignment and allow it to track a little straighter on the highway.

I still have a little contact on mine too. However the reason that I got Al's A-arms was multiple. First, it straightened the angle of the upper ball joint therefore relieving a little extra wear on it. Secondly, it replaced the top ball joint with a much stronger, replaceable, greasable joint. Thirdly, because of the improved angle, it made the front end easier to align and stay aligned.

_________________
2003 Limited 4x4
Frankenlift
Al's A-arms
245/75/16's on Moabs
front and rear hitch recievers
Moog Lowers
craptastic Mopar skids

You DO NOT need Al's A-arms if you get Rusty's 2.5" Coil Lift. If you get the Frankenlift, you MAY need them.

If you do a clevis lift with your Frankenlift, I do believe you WILL need the a-arms.

Not sure if you will need them with the Rusty's and a clevis lift.

A-arm contact as shown in the pictures above are the reason.

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===
New KJ Gear - Desert Armor Flak

2004 Renegade Light Khaki - 4" JBA Lift - Rock Lizard Products: Komodo Dragon Rear Bumper, Prototype Winch-mount Front Bumper, Super Skink Sliders - All J's Super Tranny Skid II - 31" Firestone Destination AT's on Moab wheels - Cobra 75W CB w/ stock Antenna mod

[b]Retired, US Military

i believe the recommendation after lifting is to let it settle a bit B4 going w/Al's upper A's. i waited about 10 months after Frankenlifting mine. Could never get good alignment until Al's upper A's. After that install, NO PROB'S!

Personally, i would highly recommend you change the LBJ's when you install the lift. i did not as i had the MOOGs ordered when i lifted. My right LBJ failed just one week after installing the lift (MOOG's came in the mail the next day!). Believe me you'd rather not have to go through that mess! Good luck! ! !

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'04 Renny
Mod's: See Avatar
Conquests: Poughkeepsie Gulch, Governor's Basin, Black Bear/Imogene/Engineer/Cinnamon pass, Coal Creek OHV, Badlands OHV, S.M.O.R.R., K-Rocks, Parent's driveway

Should of checked the lower joints when the lift was installed. They do not just fail unless they already have some slack in them.

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
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-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
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