skid plate bolt size?

BXKJ07 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:03 pm

I was installing a tranny skid on my kj the other day and i think i over tightened the bolt. Anyway it popped out. The bolt itself screws into a sinker or anchor type of thing(sorry I'm not sure what it's called)and they got stuck together. The diagram shows four bolts are needed to fasten the skid plate, but only two were included with the package. I'm not sure if 05 and earlier models needed two. Im driving an 07. I went to the jeep dealership parts dept. and they told me that the only way i can get those bolts were with the skid plate kit that they have. All I need is two bolts and two of those sinker/anchor type thing's. I also went to pep boys and they didnt have them they told me to go to jeep. Does anyone know what size these are and where i can get them? I appreciate the info.

chetos · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:46 pm

BXKJ07 wrote:

I was installing a tranny skid on my kj the other day and i think i over tightened the bolt. Anyway it popped out. The bolt itself screws into a sinker or anchor type of thing(sorry I'm not sure what it's called)and they got stuck together. The diagram shows four bolts are needed to fasten the skid plate, but only two were included with the package. I'm not sure if 05 and earlier models needed two. Im driving an 07. I went to the jeep dealership parts dept. and they told me that the only way i can get those bolts were with the skid plate kit that they have. All I need is two bolts and two of those sinker/anchor type thing's. I also went to pep boys and they didnt have them they told me to go to jeep. Does anyone know what size these are and where i can get them? I appreciate the info.

I can't remember the size. It's metric. I had to go to a specialty tool store here. Lowes has a thread checker in thier hardware dept but didn't have grade 8 bolts.

callaway · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 4:59 pm

get rid of the metric bolts and nutzerts. get a 3/8 drill bit and drill through nurzert and crossmember. use 4 grade 8 3/8 dia x 3.5" long bolts to secure skid to crossmember.

rear:

front:

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 5:14 pm

I must dissagree with the use of grade 8 bolts for an application where sheer is such a strong factor
IF you sheer off a grade 8 bolt in a hole and can not grab it on the other side AND turn the nut
then the need to drill it out comes in to play and useing grade 8 will burn through drill bits no matter what you do they are to hard
I work in a field where I run in to this problem all the time and trust me removing grade 8 or harder bolts from any thing that has been out side is a PITA and stainless steel is almost as hard
YES it CAN be done but why even risk it
Just go with grade 5 and keep spares they are cheep and easy to replace then

sorry high jack over

go with the drill through method it works very well and bolts are a shelf item at any hardware stoor

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 5:19 pm

Grade 5 would be fine. Mine I think are not even that, (cheapest ones Home Depot had). If you use grade 8, I really do not think shear is an issue, as I pushed mine back hard enough to bend my bolts, and they did not shear, also if it does shear off the head, there is plenty of room just to pull it out the otherside, no need to drill it out to clamp and remove your nut on the other side of the framerail.

chetos · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 5:21 pm

jason thompson wrote:

I must dissagree with the use of grade 8 bolts for an application where sheer is such a strong factor
IF you sheer off a grade 8 bolt in a hole and can not grab it on the other side AND turn the nut
then the need to drill it out comes in to play and useing grade 8 will burn through drill bits no matter what you do they are to hard
I work in a field where I run in to this problem all the time and trust me removing grade 8 or harder bolts from any thing that has been out side is a PITA and stainless steel is almost as hard
YES it CAN be done but why even risk it
Just go with grade 5 and keep spares they are cheep and easy to replace then

sorry high jack over

You do have a point but with your theory why not just use the nutzerts with grade 5 bolts. I bought Mutt's skid row transfer case skid bought some nutzerts from the dealership ($1.00 each) and everything zipped right in. I am not afraid of drilling holes, it's just easier. Unless they start falling apart, then i'll drill!! :twisted:

go with the drill through method it works very well and bolts are a shelf item at any hardware stoor

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 5:50 pm

chetos wrote:

jason thompson wrote:

I must dissagree with the use of grade 8 bolts for an application where sheer is such a strong factor
IF you sheer off a grade 8 bolt in a hole and can not grab it on the other side AND turn the nut
then the need to drill it out comes in to play and useing grade 8 will burn through drill bits no matter what you do they are to hard
I work in a field where I run in to this problem all the time and trust me removing grade 8 or harder bolts from any thing that has been out side is a PITA and stainless steel is almost as hard
YES it CAN be done but why even risk it
Just go with grade 5 and keep spares they are cheep and easy to replace then

sorry high jack over

You do have a point but with your theory why not just use the nutzerts with grade 5 bolts. I bought Mutt's skid row transfer case skid bought some nutzerts from the dealership ($1.00 each) and everything zipped right in. I am not afraid of drilling holes, it's just easier. Unless they start falling apart, then i'll drill!! :twisted:

go with the drill through method it works very well and bolts are a shelf item at any hardware stoor

because the same factors that will sheer the grade 8 bolt will pull the nut zerts out
how ever a nutzert will pull out befor a grade 5 bolt will sheer
also if you pull out nut zert it will be stuck in or rather on the skid plate major pita then

look the nut zerts are fine for the front ,fuel and the T-case skid but with the trany skid it will want to bend when you apply a load
enter sheer force #1 then as you try to go forward or backward ,sheer force #2 and somthing will give
it would be better to have a point that the bolt can "move" but still be held in so that all you get is the push/pull force and the bend is a non issue
this is why I say drill through on the trany skid no matter wich one you have but especialy on the OE trany skid so when it wants to bend and it will
if you hit it on ANY THING at all it can do its thing then you can pull it off and get a good one

USPLibby · **Joined:** Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:29 am **Posts:** 377

Grade 5 should be fine considering that the front bolts are torqued to 45 ft lbs and the transfercase bolts are 25 ft lbs.

The Gas Tank, Trailer hitch probably should be grade 8 at 65 ft lbs.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:23 pm

USPLibby wrote:

Grade 5 should be fine considering that the front bolts are torqued to 45 ft lbs and the transfercase bolts are 25 ft lbs.

The Gas Tank, Trailer hitch probably should be grade 8 at 65 ft lbs.

True about the hich and I will not go there as I dont engineer hiches and I know that there need's to be a safety factor and such built in

Gris · **Posted:** Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:03 am

The Nutzert part # from the dealer is 06506644AA. The nutzert are like $1 each from the dealer so I keep a few spares in case I rip out a skid plate and need to reattach it.

The bolts are M10x35mm with a 1.50pitch (coarse thread). I'd highly recommend getting these from a Home Depot or Lowe's rather than the dealer.

Also, you need a "special tool" to install the zerts correctly. If you didn't get one with the skid, a pair a vice grips and a bolt with a stack of washers smaller than the zert collar works really well (or did for me).

chetos · **Posted:** Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:58 am

Gris wrote:

Also, you need a "special tool" to install the zerts correctly. If you didn't get one with the skid, a pair a vice grips and a bolt with a stack of washers smaller than the zert collar works really well (or did for me).

Good tip!!! Now I know what to do in case I lose it!!!

BXKJ07 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:05 am

Thanks for the help guys! I appreciate it.

AbsoluteRenegade · **Posted:** Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:11 am

i used carrage bolts (looking at that, i forget how to spell carrage) anyways, carrage bolt from the top end into a carrage bolt plate and nuts on the bottom half. that way, if you shear of the nut, you can just pop the carrage out the top, no need to do any drilling or anything. i dont have pics of mine, as i just recently did them, but uh, yeah, let you know how they turn out.

skid plate bolt size?

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