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New Front Driveshaft
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25416		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Wasatch15 [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:02 pm ]
Post subject:  New Front Driveshaft
Image I finally got everything right to install my new front driveshaft. :D Does this site support a WORD document if I make a write up on what components I had to change to get this installed?

Ron
Author:  ATXKJ [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
You can write it in Word and then do a cut and paste into a Message (you have to add the image links seperately)
It's not hard - if I'm doing anything longer than 1-2 sentences I do that just for the spellcheck.
Author:  Wasatch15 [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
2002 Jeep Liberty Front Drive shaft Upgrade

At 25,450 miles the original drive shaft started to make weird noises. Instead of replacing the front drive shaft with a $500.00 original, I decided to go with a stronger shaft that will only need replacement u-joints in the future. Tom Woods made a custom CV type drive shaft. During this process I found a couple things that needed to be addressed before completing installation of the new drive shaft.

Front Differential
Dana 30A
CAUTION: The pinion in the front Dana 30A differential uses a crush sleeve design. Excessive torque, when installing new yoke will change original setting which will change pinion / ring backlash. I was told by personnel in the drive shaft business to tighten new yoke only until all play is taken out then slightly tighter (1/8 turn)and to use removable lock tight during installation.
NOTE: gear lube will drain from differential when companion flange is removed.
The original drive shaft companion flange is a Spicer 52556 with 26 splines and a 1.844" outside diameter oil seal surface. You need a 1 1/8" socket to remove this flange from the front differential. Then replace the original companion flange with a Spicer # 2-4-6901 u-joint yoke. The original companion flange and Spicer yoke have a 1.844" outside diameter oil seal surface. Note, the new Spicer 2-4-6901 replacement drive shaft yoke for the differential is originally for a Dana 35.Tom woods supplied this part which had to be drilled out for u-bolts (they stock this part).


Transfer Case
NP231J or NV231J
Drain fluid from transfer case.
Remove the original front drive shaft companion flange which also has 26 splines and a 1.620" outside diameter seal surface. You will need a 1 1/8" socket to remove this flange.
The original oil seal in the transfer case doesn’t fit the smaller outside diameter of the new Spicer 2-4-4341 replacement drive shaft yoke (1.550") so you will have to purchase and install a National 710046 oil seal.
Re-fill fluid in transfer case.
Tom Woods (1-877-497-4238) supplied all my components. Josh was very helpful. I purchased the fully splined drive shaft, you can spend $30 less for the partially splined shaft. I also opted not to have the boot installed over the splined shaft because it is VERY close to the hot exhaust pipe. The total was $450
Author:  myjeepwalks [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
That is frickin awesome!!! Any pics of the install??

MODS: This needs to be made a sticky or put in the how to section.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would love to see some bigger pics of that driveshaft.

$$??
Author:  Wasatch15 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:31 am ]
Post subject: 
I'll post some pictures soon.
Author:  C co Crusader 2/127 [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:45 am ]
Post subject: 
definaltty need bigger pics and better pics and how muck the better shafts cost
Author:  Wasatch15 [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Is it possible to post a pdf file on this forum :?: The cost was $433 and tax.
I removed the old oil seals, installed new ones, then installed the new drive shaft myself. Bigger pictures coming, just been busy working on daughters car :evil:
Author:  C co Crusader 2/127 [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
now do you think that to woods would be up to making a replacement high set of CV shafts for the front? Thats what i think a lot of us are looking for.
Author:  tjkj2002 [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
C co Crusader 2/127 wrote:
now do you think that to woods would be up to making a replacement high set of CV shafts for the front? Thats what i think a lot of us are looking for.
Our CV shafts are really strong,not much more that can be done to them to make them stronger.The whole problem is that at extreme angles no CV is very strong,and after adding a lift it puts our CV's in that danger zone.Your more likely to blow the front D30A first though.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 5:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would rather blow a cv than blow a front diff. Stupid DC.
Author:  C co Crusader 2/127 [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:13 am ]
Post subject: 
sorry about the typo.... i ment high angle cv's. An today i didn quite a bit of research on the 44 thats in the GC. It turns out that it probably would fit in there fine but i havnt figured out how the hell to remount it. and the shaft problem is an easy fix with new custom shafts
Author:  Rush345 [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:54 am ]
Post subject:  Blow CV's???
Jeepjeepster wrote:
I would rather blow a cv than blow a front diff. Stupid DC.


That Long Line over there, they all say their name is CV!!!!!

:-)r :-)r :-)r :-)r :-)r :-)r
Author:  Wasatch15 [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Jeep Liberty
Twenty Steps to a Stronger and Serviceable Front Drive Shaft

The Jeep this work was performed on is a 2002 Liberty Sport 4x4 with a NV3550 five speed manual transmission, NP231J transfer case, and a Dana 30A aluminum front differential.

Step One: Before you remove the original drive shaft mark it with line up marks at each end of the shaft and its matching companion flange. This will insure you will maintain shaft balance should you decide to return it into service.

Step Two: Using an 8mm socket or wrench, remove six bolts connecting companion flange of front differential to front of drive shaft then do the same with the six bolts on the companion flange connected to the transfer case.

Step Three: The drive shaft is now loose and can be removed. I was able to maneuver it out without unbolting and moving the exhaust pipe, but you may be forced to unbolt the exhaust.

Step Four: Measure for the new driveshaft using a tape measure and record the length between the raised protrusions around the outside of the companion flange on the differential side and the outside rim of the companion flange on the transfer case.

TRANSFER CASE

Step Five: Drain fluid from transfer case.

Step Six: Using a 1 1/8” socket, remove nut securing companion flange on front output shaft of transfer case. You may want to replace this nut with a new one as it is a locking type nut, re-use is usually not recommended. (If you re-use the nut, use lock-tite upon re-installation). This is your decision.

Step Seven: Use puller to remove companion flange from splined shaft. NOTE* if you haven’t drained the fluid from TC, it will leak out soon as you pull the companion flange from the splined shaft.

Step Eight: Carefully remove original front output shaft oil seal on transfer case and replace it with a new National 710046 oil seal. The oil seal surface on the new yoke is a smaller diameter then the original on the companion flange. That’s why the new oil seal is needed.

Step Nine: Lube the outside oil seal surface of the new Spicer 2-4-4341 splined yoke; install it on the splined shaft of the transfer case. Install new locknut or clean male threads and apply lock-tite to the shaft threads. Tighten lock nut securing new yoke.

Step Ten: Re-fill transfer case with 1.0L (2.2 pints) of ATF+4 fluid.

DIFFERENTIAL

Step Eleven: Since the original companion flange and new Spicer 2-4-6901 both have the same size oil seal diameter a new oil seal is not needed but mine leaked a short time later so I would recommend you install a new oil seal at this time. Oil seal is a Spicer 50619

Step Twelve: If replacing oil seal do this step, if not skip to step 15. Drain differential fluid.

Step Thirteen: Remove locknut with 1 1/8” socket and remove original companion flange using puller.

Step Fourteen: Remove old oil seal, replace with new Spicer 50619 oil seal.

Step Fifteen: If not replacing oil seal you will be able to quickly swap the original companion flange with the new Spicer 2-4-6901 yoke and lose minimal fluid, if you do it quickly. Place rag on cross member under pinion area of front differential to catch any fluid that escapes. Clean threaded area of pinion shaft and lube oil seal surface of new yoke. Install new yoke.

Step Sixteen: Install new locknut on pinion shaft or apply lock-tite if re-using old nut (your decision). Use 1 1/8” socket to carefully tighten locknut. Get all play out of yoke to shaft connection but be very careful not to over torque or you could compress the crush sleeve and change the original pinion setting **USE CAUTION AND CARE**

Step Seventeen: Compress new drive shaft enough to install it in the new yokes. Place front u-joint into new yoke on the differential side and install U-bolts. Tighten evenly.

Step Eighteen: Place rear U-joint into the new yoke on the transfer case side, install bolts and tighten evenly.

Step Nineteen: If you had to drain differential, re-fill it with 75W-140 synthetic gear lube.

Step Twenty: Check for leaks, Test drive at a slow speed, check for leaks, then test drive at highway speeds to check for any problems.

Part # Description Vendor Cost
35D131 Spicer Yoke (2-4-6901-1X) Tom Woods $55
50619 Spicer Oil Seal Six States $9.50
710046 National Oil Seal Six States $9.60
26ZCV131 Spicer Yoke (2-4-4341) Tom Woods $60
A2XC-131-131 Drive Shaft Tom Woods $299
Total $433.10
You will also have to pay shipping


General Notes:

I worked with Josh and Tom at Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts. Their entire shop was very helpful in making sure I had the correct parts for this upgrade. If you are interested in upgrading from the original front drive shaft to a heavy duty serviceable shaft I would highly recommend Tom Woods.

The original Spicer #52556 companion flange on the Dana 30A differential has an oil seal outside diameter surface of 1.844” and 26 splines. The new Spicer 2-4-6901X yoke matches the seal surface diameter and spline count.

The original companion flange on the front output shaft of the NV/NP231J transfer case has 26 splines and an outside diameter oil seal surface of 1.620”. The new 26 spline #26ZCV131 yoke has an outside diameter oil seal surface of 1.550”, so a new oil seal with a smaller inside diameter is needed (National 710046).

Tom Woods near Ogden, Ut 1-877-497-4238
Six States in Salt Lake City, Ut 801-488-4666, 801-488-4688

Fluids needed:
1.24L (41.9 oz) 75W-140 Gear Lube
1L (2.2 pints) Synthetic ATF+4
Author:  IceColeNH [ Tue Apr 08, 2008 4:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anyone know off hand if the dimensions for the 242 are the same?
I like this and am interested.
Author:  BeepBeepJeepJeep [ Tue Apr 08, 2008 5:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Can someone help me understand what the point of a joint (CV or U) on a driveshaft that connects to two stationary objects is?

I mean... The front dif is bolted directly to the jeep... as is the transfer case...

Why is a joint necessary?
Author:  tjkj2002 [ Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:
Can someone help me understand what the point of a joint (CV or U) on a driveshaft that connects to two stationary objects is?

I mean... The front dif is bolted directly to the jeep... as is the transfer case...

Why is a joint necessary?
Because the t-case and front diff are not perfectly inline with each other,also the t-case and the front diff are mounted using rubber bushings so they will move a little,they are not stationary,hence the need for u-joints or CV joints.
Author:  BeepBeepJeepJeep [ Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
tjkj2002 wrote:
BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:
Can someone help me understand what the point of a joint (CV or U) on a driveshaft that connects to two stationary objects is?

I mean... The front dif is bolted directly to the jeep... as is the transfer case...

Why is a joint necessary?
Because the t-case and front diff are not perfectly inline with each other,also the t-case and the front diff are mounted using rubber bushings so they will move a little,they are not stationary,hence the need for u-joints or CV joints.


Thankya!
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