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 Post subject: Lighter Rails....But Still Strong
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:10 pm 
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Im wanting to make some rock rails for my Jeep but where i wheel i dont really need them and i want to cut down on
weight so can i get by with using a 1x1 or 1.5x1.5 by 3/16? or since its gonna be smaller would it be better to go 1/4 thick?
how much weight difference would there be between 3/16" and 1/4"?


any suggestions?


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 Post subject: Re: Lighter Rails....But Still Strong
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 8:35 pm 
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jsc7002 wrote:
Im wanting to make some rock rails for my Jeep but where i wheel i dont really need them and i want to cut down on
weight so can i get by with using a 1x1 or 1.5x1.5 by 3/16? or since its gonna be smaller would it be better to go 1/4 thick?
how much weight difference would there be between 3/16" and 1/4"?


any suggestions?


Use a 2"x2", 1/8" thick. You will get the look of a nice size bar and be about half the weight of the current 3/16" bars on the market. I am sure they would hold up Ok too for light hits and scraping.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:09 pm 
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why not the 1x1x3/16 or 1x1x1/4 wouldnt they be stronger and still light?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:28 pm 
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1x1 would be pretty easy to bend, even at 3/16" 1/4" would be better but, probably still not as strong as what you're looking for.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:31 pm 
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...Unless you can get some 303 or 316L stainless steel square stock. Then 1x1 x 1/8" would be pretty darn strong. Harder to weld, though.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:12 am 
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Too bad Titanium is so expensive.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 10:40 am 
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hey dje ryu do you know how much that stainless steel would run me? for roughly 20ft ive got a friend who can weld stainless REALLY good....its his job lol 8)

but ill prolly go with the 2x2x1/8 but how strong will they be? i dont think they will be used too hard but you never know...and it is better than nothing

why wouldnt the 1x1x1/4 be just as strong? i mean i know its smaller but its also thicker, sorry i dont know much about metals

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 1:20 pm 
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I am just learning/teaching myself about this kind of stuff. Although I dont have an answer about the materials strength.....check out www.engineersedge.com Its full of great info.

For the engineers...

Is the section modulus what we need to figure out to compare these two types of tubing?

http://www.engineersedge.com/calculator ... case_4.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:26 pm 
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The strength has to do with the total volume of metal. I'm not positive on the cost (I just machine it, I don't buy it) but, I believe stainless is roughly 1.5 times the cost of mild steel.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 12:00 pm 
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will these really support a jack?!

http://www.tomken.com/catalog.php?searc ... 6cat%3Dall

"Liberty 2 x 4 Rock Rars
These can save you a lot of body work! With the Tomken 2"x4" Rocker Skids made of 1/8" wall tubing with closed ends. Will support Hi-Lift jack. Stronger than nerf bars and don't take up all the ground clearance like round tubes do. Powder coated black."

They also have very good spelling lol Rock Rars :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 12:09 pm 
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My wife has the Rusty's rails on her rig and they work great as a jacking point (used a Highlift on it this past weekend to swap a tire on the trail)

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=KJA-34&Category_Code=kj_skid

Image

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 12:15 pm 
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thanks but im making my own, i dont wanna spent that much money on something that i will not use that much

im wanting to make mine using 2x2x1/8 to save weight but i was wondering if you would be able to use a jack on them, but i might end up using 3/16


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:29 pm 
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I made me some about a year ago for around $100. Price of steel has went up since then so idk what it would cost now.

Mine were right at 30lbs a piece. its hard to make something like that strong, but yet light.

I used 1/4in 2x2 steel and 1/8in 1x2 steel.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:15 am 
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Dje Ryu wrote:
The strength has to do with the total volume of metal.


not entirely, the more material away from the centerline of the beam, the stronger the beam. 2x2 square tube in any thickness is stronger than a solid 2x2 per lb.

when beams flex, the stress is greatest on the outside surface of the beam. as you travel further into the beam, the stress diminishes, it eventually it reaches 0 at the center of the beam. since the stress in the middle is 0, you can remove that material and still retain the strength of the beam. that would be a infinitely small amount of material, but that is the concept. that's why I beams are in the shape of an I. more material away from the centerline of the beam. :wink:

you can demonstrate this by getting a tube and a dowel rod of the same OD and material. hang the same weight off of each and see which deflects further. (i saw Mr. Wizard demonstrate this on TV when I was a kid :shock: ).

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