Got under the Lib' yesterday with the neighbor in the driver's seat moving the T-case lever so I could see what was going on underneath. If you remember, my KJ has been stuck in 2wd all winter and the lever will not move more than 1/2" up and stops.
Underneath I could see that the linkage is fine. The connection to to T-case is trying to engage, but obviously something inside the T-case is buggered and not letting it shift.
Any of you had a similar problem? What kind of $$ am I looking at for repairs? As much as I'd like to do it myself, I don't have the time nor the equipment to do it, so it's looking like I'm going to have to shell out the bucks. So much for the tax return!

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'03 KJ "Rocky Mountain Edition" 3.7L
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Cat-Back
Yokohama Geolander AT/S (Liked the Toyo Open Country AT's better though.)

Have you tried not being afraid of it? Sometimes a little elbow grease goes a long way...

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Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

Have you tried moving the lever while rolling forward and back? There are some plastic bushings on the shift fork that can break off and it will become a pain to engage.

Travis

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2006 Liberty Sport CRD new injection pump, new fuel head, waiting for #4 injector at the dealer...2 weeks and counting
1984 CJ8
1980 CJ7 runnin' on propane
1973 J4000

Tried it every which way. You can yank on that lever until your arm goes numb, it won't budge.

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'03 KJ "Rocky Mountain Edition" 3.7L
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Cat-Back
Yokohama Geolander AT/S (Liked the Toyo Open Country AT's better though.)

I'd get the Jeep in a crossways bind and try it. Sometimes a bind will unbind if bound. Does that make sense. I know this example is electronic but I had a cell phone that quit transmitting after I dropped it. I could hear but could not be heard. Anyhow, I had seen it drop and how it landed so I dropped it exactly that way again and it started working again, never to give me trouble again. Sounds stupid I know but just try it. Same happened with my ol Chevy pickup. I got it in a bind, the syncronizers were worn and it popped out of gear while in a bind. I couldn't get it to go back in gear until I literally got it in a big bind. Do you know when/what the situation was when it no longer worked correctly? Were you in a bind? While doing so, I'd try to move the shift lever from left to right (in the little bit of play you have). There seems to be a little invisible "track" it needs to move along when shifting it so maybe that's it.
Then again, don't pull it hard. Apply pressure but work it from side to side. If all that fails, BREAK IT OFF!!! No, just kidding. Take it in to the dealership.

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05 Black "RUBI-GADE"
MOABs w/ MTRs
Rusty's 2.5 lift
Al J's Gen4 Upper Control Arms
Custom front skid
Rusty's rear diff guard
Super Sliders by Screamin Lizard
ARB Air lockers!!
Cut my teeth in a CJ-5
"It's less the Machine and more the Operator."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2591493

Try changing the T-Case fluid....

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LostRenegade - Lost # 477
2003 Jeep Liberty Renegade - Silver
Mopar Skids, Skid Row Tranny Skid, Boulder Bars, Frankenlift II, 60" Hi-Lift Jack, K&N 6x9 Air Filter, Magnaflow, Dertoit Locker, 245/75R16 BF Goodrich All Terrains, Al's A-Arms

Did that last summer.

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'03 KJ "Rocky Mountain Edition" 3.7L
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Cat-Back
Yokohama Geolander AT/S (Liked the Toyo Open Country AT's better though.)

It worked fine for me this past summer/fall when I used it while camping. I was towing my tent trailer the last time I used it. When winter started to make its presence known this past October, I tried to engage it on paved ground doing about 40km/hr. It was really tough to engage. I did manage to get it engaged a couple of days later after REALLY yanking on the lever. Once it was engaged, it ran fine, worked great and I heard nothing odd or disturbing coming from the driveline. I should have left it engaged all winter, but stupid me, I shut it off after about a week and have never been able to engage it since. That was in November.
Fluid was changed last summer and has been checked recently. It's fine. I'm out of ideas.

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'03 KJ "Rocky Mountain Edition" 3.7L
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Cat-Back
Yokohama Geolander AT/S (Liked the Toyo Open Country AT's better though.)

Do you have the command trac or select trac t-case? If you have the full time option then you have the select trac t-case,they are famous for the shift mechanism to fail,and are very pricy to fix.The command trac is a direct link shifted t-case so all that could be wrong is the cable is bad or messed up shift forks.

Selec-Trac. So far, you've given me the best answer I've heard. Tell me more. Should I go dealer or a good tranny shop? Easy fix? $$?

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'03 KJ "Rocky Mountain Edition" 3.7L
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Cat-Back
Yokohama Geolander AT/S (Liked the Toyo Open Country AT's better though.)

The trouble shooting guide in the service manual states that no shift or hard shifting t-case is caused by-----Binding shift cable---Incorrect fluid or low fluid level---Worn or broken internal parts.The select trac uses abunch of springs,detents,and plungere to shift into the different ranges,some of those parts could be broken or such,either way if it is inside the t-case it'll need to be removed and ripped apart.Check your fluid first,you should use ATF+4.I personally would go to a good tranny shop if your not to interested in ripping the t-case out and apart yourself.Not sure how much they would charge but unless something else other then the shifter cable is wrong the t-case has to be removed and split to fix,parts may not be that much but the labor is going to be the thing that gets you.

Fluid is full and clean.

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'03 KJ "Rocky Mountain Edition" 3.7L
K&N Intake
Magnaflow Cat-Back
Yokohama Geolander AT/S (Liked the Toyo Open Country AT's better though.)