Front propeller/drive shaft problems ... again

ltlowe · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:14 pm

Just wondering how many of you have had problems and how many have swapped in a shaft with U-joints. I've had my front propeller shaft replaced once under warranty for bad balance, then rebuilt once because of a torn rear dust boot (which trashed the cv) and now that same boot is torn again and the cv is grinding... again.

I've seen quite a few posts about this and I'm fed up with all the problems I've had. There is a local fabricator that rebuilt the CV last time, I might ask about building a shaft like the Tom Woods one, but if Tom Woods already has the specs, I might just order one online.

pinging Wasatch15 as well ( since I don't see the info in the fab section yet

)

Todd

Wasatch15 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:52 am **Posts:** 242

E-mail me at wasatch@utahbroadband.com and I'll shoot you over a file explaining what I did to replace mine with a Tom Woods driveshaft. It will require maintenance (greasing the u-joints) but I have had zero front driveshaft problems since I installed it last summer. It will turn a

into a

. You may need to give me a couple days to respond as life has me away from my PC.

Ron

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:09 pm

RITE BEHIND YOU LOST BROTHER.
Same (F-BOMB) Problem I am having. I have changed front and rear DS, rear DIFF's both front CV's more than once. All in the last few months. I am SICK OF IT!

What is this shaft you guys are talking about? I want in. I can't take this any more. My KJ spends more time in my drive way than my blacktop does!

Wasatch15 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:52 am **Posts:** 242

This is a HEAVY duty fully splined driveshaft with one CV type dual U-joint on one end and one regular U-joint on the other. It will have to be greased occasionally, but is WAY better than the original. The original companion flanges will have to be removed from the trtansfer case and front differential and replaced with yokes. The oil seals will have to be changed out too then your cheap a*$ original driveshaft problems will go away. The new one is from Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts.

Ron

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 03, 2008 7:23 pm

Quote:

one CV type dual U-joint on one end and one regular U-joint on the other.

That type of a CV driveshaft is totally pointless(not to mention costing alot more) in a IFS vehicle in which the diff is stationary.Get a driveshaft with a single u-joint on each end and a slip joint(needed cause the front diff and t-case are mounted via rubber bushings and will move a little) and pay about $100+ less then getting that fancy CV driveshaft which you do not need.

desertrat · **Joined:** Sun Feb 26, 2006 11:53 pm **Posts:** 25

Tjkj2002 is correct in that a single U-joint and a slip yoke joint on the other end will work great and be a lot less expensive than the Tom Woods unit, unless you have the Selec-Trac Full time 4WD system. I had my 2003 unit into the Driveshaft shop recently to replace the front drive shaft, and I asked them to the replace the unit with U-joints instead. They recommended a U-joint on one end and the slip yoke on the other (similar to how Jeep Wranglers are setup), and they agreed that would be the best set-up to prevent future problems. Parts are available here in the So California area they said for such a setup, and they installed everything for right around $400 including all parts. The unit they put together was slicker than ice, and I had visions of never having driveshaft problems again -- unfortunately that was short-lived. They failed to realize that I had the Select-trac system and we quickly realized after several road tests this was not working. Just about broke my heart. Had to disassemble everything and re-order a regular drive shaft, as they checked their supplier and the parts to convert are not available for my vehicle. Possibly Tom Woods does. So, morale of the story is, if you have the Selec-trac, just be sure all parts will work before going the route with the U-joints. If you don't have the Selec-Trac, then going with the U-joint/yoke just makes sense to prevent future problems.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:54 pm

desertrat wrote:

Tjkj2002 is correct in that a single U-joint and a slip yoke joint on the other end will work great and be a lot less expensive than the Tom Woods unit, unless you have the Selec-Trac Full time 4WD system. I had my 2003 unit into the Driveshaft shop recently to replace the front drive shaft, and I asked them to the replace the unit with U-joints instead. They recommended a U-joint on one end and the slip yoke on the other (similar to how Jeep Wranglers are setup), and they agreed that would be the best set-up to prevent future problems. Parts are available here in the So California area they said for such a setup, and they installed everything for right around $400 including all parts. The unit they put together was slicker than ice, and I had visions of never having driveshaft problems again -- unfortunately that was short-lived. They failed to realize that I had the Select-trac system and we quickly realized after several road tests this was not working. Just about broke my heart. Had to disassemble everything and re-order a regular drive shaft, as they checked their supplier and the parts to convert are not available for my vehicle. Possibly Tom Woods does. So, morale of the story is, if you have the Selec-trac, just be sure all parts will work before going the route with the U-joints. If you don't have the Selec-Trac, then going with the U-joint/yoke just makes sense to prevent future problems.

The type of driveshaft I was talking about is pictured in the pic below--single u-joint,slip joint,then single u-joint--this set-up will work with full time t-cases,I had the same on my '79 Grand Wagoneer.

The Tom Woods drive shafts have a CV joint on one end(or double cardon joint,2 back to back u-joints).JE REEL drives shafts pictured below.

For the 2nd pic driveshafts to work the pinion in the diff need to be perfectly pointed at the t-case yoke(the CV driveshaft) otherwise you get severe driveline vibs,the 1st pic driveshaft will work in any situation but the more extreme angles will wear the u-joint's faster.

Wasatch15 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:52 am **Posts:** 242

All I can say is after installing the Tom Woods drive shaft, all drive shaft problems went away. I don't see that as pointless. And by installing myself I paid a bit more than the $400 listed for the other driveshaft and didn't create any other problems forcing me to remove it and try again. When I purchased the driveshaft from Tom Woods, they recommended the unit I purchased. Maybe they wanted more money, who knows. All I know is they have been in the driveline business for a long time, Driveline installed, problems gone.

Front propeller/drive shaft problems ... again

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