I used this on a car I had a while back whenever I got a oil change, I found I had slightly better mpg from it since it cleaned out the engine and such. A friend was saying that in his book it told him never to use these though... I haven't checked in the book for my liberty but what do you guys think on fuel additives?

_________________
02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

IMO the additives work decently in some of the older cars (pre-1995). I wouldn't use it in any newer cars though.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport 4x4

Frankenlift; Skink Sliders; Skid Row front skid; Mopar trans, t-case, and gas tank skids; f/r recovery points; Cobra 75 WX ST; Renegade light bar; hardwired radar detector; 245/75 Guard Dog MTs; Optima Red Top, Amsoil air filter

Why is that? I remember when I got my oil changed in my car last year they offered to flush the engine out or something like that, wouldn't a addative do the same, just clean the gunk out? What "could" go wrong using a bottle of slick 50 high every few months?

_________________
02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

I'm all about the trans-flush, never had an "engine flush" . I'm just weary of adding additives to my oil with all the computer controlled things that the newer cars have - not saying that the additive will hurt it for sure, but give me a high quality motor oil any day instead of an additive.

But, like everything, get a few other opinions, then make an informed decision. You could also drop the guys at Jeep an email. They've always been pretty good about getting back to me about any questions I have.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport 4x4

Frankenlift; Skink Sliders; Skid Row front skid; Mopar trans, t-case, and gas tank skids; f/r recovery points; Cobra 75 WX ST; Renegade light bar; hardwired radar detector; 245/75 Guard Dog MTs; Optima Red Top, Amsoil air filter

When i changed my oil a few weeks back i dropped the oil ,fitted my fumoto drain valve ,filled up with fresh oil and ran engine for half an hour or so and then dropped the oil again ,filled up with oil and added a bottle of slick 50 engine oil treatment.I did the double flush with oil instead of a chemical oil flush as i think they can contain harsh chemicals that can damage seals ect. With the slick 50 treatment i noticed the engine felt smoother and more responsive and a little quieter.Just my opinion and findings .

_________________
2004 2.8 crd Limited

Use SeaFoam to clean out the engine... It'll remove all the gunk without sticking small carbon deposits in the oil passages. Most people don't recommend the engine flush because they eat away at gaskets and can actually plug some oil passages if the engine is really dirty.

Stick to SeaFoan, a clean PCV valve and regular oil change intervals and the motor will last forever.

_________________
02 Liberty Limited
Silver Outside & Taupe Inside
Heated Seats, Sunroof & Infinity speakers
USA Spec I-Pod adaptor, Mopar Sub, Garmin GPS
Tow Package, Select-Trac
Rock Rails, Tow Hooks

I've never done the slick 50 engine treatment... though I was just looking at it 30min ago in the store lol. I always used the slick 50 that goes in your gas tank...

_________________
02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

http://skepdic.com/slick50.html

This is teflon. It can trash a real motor. It will plug stuff up. Stay away. Put it in your engine and it runs better sometimes. Until it plugs crap up and your motor dies from lack of lubrication. Others have had trouble with it making seals leak.

Working in the aviation industry in the past I know that there are plenty of wonderful materials that can be applied to things like engines to make them last and last. Unfortunately-- those things cost so much money to put on a auto engine that mere mortals cannot afford them or the application process. Pratt and Whitney making a $4 million dollar titanium turbine engine, yes. Car manufacturers, no. Needless to say, you will not see Pratt & Whitney running down to the store to buy some Marvel Mystery Oil or Slick 50 snake oil for their engine.

P&W's engine probably runs a bit better than what is in our jeeps though, so it would need less attention for these areas. All in all since it is just a lubricant, I see it adding benefit, it will clean the junk out. How is this a bad thing?

_________________
02 KJ "Frank The Turtle"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3111598

Nope. A turbine (jet) engine will see temps and pressures that will destroy most parts in an automobile engine. It needs far more protection against heat and friction that an internal combustion engine block will ever need. That is why turbine manufacturers spend money on engine coatings to reduce friction and protect against heat. Real engine coatings adhere chemically to the metals and bond with them. They become the surface of the material, they are not merely painted onto the surface-- nor do they float around in oil suspension waiting to clog stuff up. That is why they cost big money and slick 50 costs three bucks to make (but they sell it for $30 or so).

Slick 50 will not clean junk out of anything. A lubricant is not by definition a detergent, although it can be. SeaFoam has a detergent action. Detergent gasoline has a detergent action. Most motor oils have detergents in them already, so adding something else to them is not likely to help and is very likely to cause the motor oil to perform in ways not intended (since you have altered its chemical makeup).

Teflon is a solid. In the case of slick 50 it is a solid suspended in oil. What does your oil filter do? It removes solids. Want to plug up an oil filter or any other engine passageway designed for liquid motor oil? Then poor solids into it. That is the problem with Slick 50. Once pluging happens-- no more lubribcation as oil pressure drops and parts of the motor become oil starved. Oil starvation results in metal to metal contact. Even if the teflon were to actually adhere to those pieces of metal-- the metal to metal contact would rub them off instantly (just like a metal fork grooving a teflon frying pan).

Surely the teflon solids particles are too small to :A: clog up oilways and :B: too small for an oil filter to pick up.

_________________
2004 2.8 crd Limited

Solids is a liquid tend to stick together thus making bigger solids. Think of it like clogged arteries in your body. The small pieces of cholesterol don't create a problem until they start sticking together. You get a clogged artery resulting in a stroke or heart attact. It would do the same thing in motor oil causing a clogged filter or oil passage way. Boom, there goes your motor.

Terry

_________________
2011 Ford F-150 XLT 4X4

Run the Amsoil 0W30, it will be fuel efficient and protect your engine. It's proven!

_________________
2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

Yep. Plus teflon expands dramatically as it heats up. The hotter your motor gets, the more stuff it is going to block. Not good. The link I posted explains all this. The end result of testing was slightly higher performance (less friction in cylinder walls promoting quicker revving) at the expense of greatly increased engine wear due to oil starvation. That is not a good trade. Note most of the race teams that use and endorse teflon products rebuild their engines every couple weeks. They don't care about the downside of teflon products. If you want to rebuild your engine every couple weeks for a slight improvement in performance, then I highly recommend slick 50. Otherwise, you are gambling with the life of your motor.