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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 4:03 pm 
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When my A/C went I tried filling the system up with a 134a Recharge Kit from PepBoys. As it turns out there was a massive leak (because the 134a emptied, but the system was still completely out of 134a). I had to end up getting my condenser replaced. Somebody here probably has a better idea than me, but I'd try filling the system up with 134a. If that doesn't work or it works for a while, but then it goes back to blowing hot air I'd have the system re-filled with 134a and the dye to help find the leak.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:27 pm 
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Best way to check for a leak is to have a vacuum pulled on the system. If you dont want to do that you can hook a set of gauges up to it and put some 134a in it. see how long that lasts.

Ive seen them last for years with a recharge(very slow leak) or last a couple days with a recharge(bad leak).

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:36 pm 
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with the engine running, turn the a/c on and check under the hood to see if the compressor is cycling at all. if it is not cycling, chances are you have a leak, and probably a decent sized one at that (you may also have a blown fuse, but that's probably just wishful thinking). check the condenser for an impact from a rock, there seem to be quite a few KJ's that have had this happen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:30 am 
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tjkoen01 wrote:
with the engine running, turn the a/c on and check under the hood to see if the compressor is cycling at all. if it is not cycling, chances are you have a leak, and probably a decent sized one at that (you may also have a blown fuse, but that's probably just wishful thinking). check the condenser for an impact from a rock, there seem to be quite a few KJ's that have had this happen.


Makes for a good reason to cover the grill in screen. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:41 pm 
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Whatever you do just don't resort to this ...

Image

Could be fuse. Open up the fusebox under the hood and check if it's blown or if it just came loose from vibration (had this happen to mine).

Check if the A/C clutch is engaging.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:44 pm 
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[quote="dirtykj"]Whatever you do just don't resort to this ...

Image

Hmm . . . that's got me thinking. It was 111 degrees today and even with my A/C cranked I couldn't get the cabin cool enough to be even close to comfortable. If I bashed out the back window and put a smaller unit than the one in the picture above where the window was, then I could duck tape some plywood in to fill in the gaps, get a big stupid inverter to run off the DC plug in the cargo bay, maybe a duel battery setup and bigger alternator. . .

Then again, I could just park it in the shade when I get home in the wee hours of the morning and it won't be 190 degrees in the cab when I leave in the afternoon :shock: :lol: :shock:

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Last edited by mrkake on Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:32 pm 
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I just thought of an even better idea; I could install an A/C unit from a motor home on the roof. Then maybe the Liberty could double as a second refrigerator when I needed one :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:49 am 
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the best way is just take it some where and have someone look at it . the 134A recharge kits are garbage. its better to have someone nitrogen charge the system for leaks, once the leak is found, repair it and have them pull a deep vacuum on the system in order to remove any moisture. The next thing they will do is weight in the CORRECT AMOUNT of 134. that why i have never believed in recharge kits. this type of system is a critical charge so by adding even 1 or 2OZ over or under the charge can really start to effect the performance of the AC. money maybe more to fix but the out come would be alot better. on older dodges i have seen the shaft seal leak on the compressor
but it usually a very slow leak. check the shrader core access fittings and for big leaks look for signs of oil

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:34 pm 
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rt_power is right. I had a Subaru that the A/C never did work on very well. I would charge the system (without gauges or anything) and it would be cold for a week or so and then quit cooling. I finally had a guy that I knew who did refrigeration take a look at it and he had to leave the vacuum pump on overnight cause there was so much moisture in it. He found the leak with a dye charge (blown seal), pulled a vacuum on it overnight, recharged it with the correct amount of refrigerant, ran it for a couple of hours and then checked the high side and low side pressures again to make sure that there were no other leaks and the thing worked like never before. I couldn't even run it with the fan on high for very long because the car got too cold!

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