Put the arm in place and then the mounting bolts in place as well just to hold the arm in the position its going to be when moving around as part of the suspension. Move the arm throughout its range of motion, and note where it hits the frame. These are the areas you'll have to grind. Remember them or mark them. Remove the arm and grind those areas. Cover with paint or something else to prevent rust. I had to grind just the bottom, but a considerable amount. It's an odd angle, so having a dremel with a grinding wheel is nice for making sure you got it all and for getting it at a better angle. Put a light layer of paint or any type of marker on the grinded areas and remount the arms. Move them through their complete motion again. Look to see where you paint/marker made contact with the arms. Grind these areas once again with the same process, and remark them to see where the contact areas might still be. Repeat until paint/marker leaves no mark on the arms, meaning the arms are free to move from bumpstop to bumpstop with no problems.

I had no idea until just now that this was required with Al's arms. What a pain in the @$#%. Why isn't THIS in bold print on their website instead of the other propaganda they have posted?

"Pay me triple the amount of a stock arm and, oh yeah, you'll have to grind 3/4" of material away in order for these to work". Too bad my arms just arrived yesterday or I would have cancelled my order. I guess I'll just have to make them work.

You don't HAVE to do it, (cut out to installAls arms) but if you want full range of motion from the new arms then you should. Its not a big pain to do very simple. Or maybe you consider a major mod as hanging a tree air freshner on the rear view.
Als are not triple the amount, plus you are installing something that is an upgrade to the suspension, so of course it is more money!
I still have to shake my head in utter amazement at what some consider a huge expense in lifting or upgrading a KJ.
I have spent a half less on my mods to my KJ than any other 4 WD I have owned in over 30 years but still some complain

OK OK sorry back off the soap box now!

Tom

Don't take it personal Tom. It was just a surprise to me, that's all. I've been reading about Al's arms for a couple years now and never heard of clearancing anything. I will do the work and I understand that you have to pay to play (or at least to do it right). This ain't my first dance either, buddy. I was more or less commenting on how this has never been mentioned before (or very much).

I don't know how I missed it either, man.

Well, if you LIVE on this forum, then you don't miss anything and stay on top of everything. However, if you're one of those normal people and check the forum once or twice a week, then you'll miss everything! That's why I'm addicted! According to my wife, I live here way too much. Maybe I need to seek counseling!

I'm not trying to start a fight, but I want others who read this to know the whole story. Not only are Al's arms not triple the price, but they cost about the same as stock. I just went through this on mine. The arms were $112 to $160 each (or at least I think each) and the bushings are $25 each (you need 4). That is right at $400. Al's arms are $385. That looks like the same money to me, plus I get to replace the joints in the future for less than $40. Can someone verify these numbers? Or was I wrong in assuming that the price was per arm for the stocker units? Either way. It was worth the money to me.

Thanks,
Rescu2000