Suspected CV joint problem

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:39 pm

I am the 4* general with CV's.
I have replaced both CV's at least 3 times each.
I had the same problem like you did. I fixed it and a few months later I am having the same problem rite now.

When you get clicking when turning hard foward and back you will notice it more. That is your CV's coing bad.
I replaced mine with after market cv and half shafts.
If you have the dealer do it it will run you about $800.00 give or take.

I think for the reason for my bi-monthly problems is that I have the Frankenlift II with the HD coils and factory tupperwear front bumpbers. I am guessing my cv angles are too high and taking out my cv's......

I am sure TJKJ2002 (TROY) will chime in on this issue with maybe further what to check for......

DryBones · **Posted:** Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:25 pm

Jeep Dawg wrote:

I am the 4* general with CV's.
I have replaced both CV's at least 3 times each.
I had the same problem like you did. I fixed it and a few months later I am having the same problem rite now.

When you get clicking when turning hard foward and back you will notice it more. That is your CV's coing bad.
I replaced mine with after market cv and half shafts.
If you have the dealer do it it will run you about $800.00 give or take.

I think for the reason for my bi-monthly problems is that I have the Frankenlift II with the HD coils and factory tupperwear front bumpbers. I am guessing my cv angles are too high and taking out my cv's......

I am sure TJKJ2002 (TROY) will chime in on this issue with maybe further what to check for......

Well, OME only recommends the HD coils in front if you are adding additional weight like a Bumper and or winch. Just another reason for me to go with the Mediums when the time comes. One less thing to worry about.
Have you decided if you are going to remove the lift and see if your problems stay way?

kkohne10 · **Joined:** Sun Oct 21, 2007 4:26 pm **Posts:** 30

Sooo... this is my second time replacing my CV's the same on on the front passenger went out again today and its getting pretty annoying. What im thinking is wouldn't a larger tire help offset the angle??? I have a 30" BFG KO on and it has plenty of space for the 31 and wouldn't the extra inch or w/e help the angle of the CV?

or could this just be an excuse for sum bigger tires???

thnx

KJ04 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:25 am

kkohne10 wrote:

Sooo... this is my second time replacing my CV's the same on on the front passenger went out again today and its getting pretty annoying. What im thinking is wouldn't a larger tire help offset the angle??? I have a 30" BFG KO on and it has plenty of space for the 31 and wouldn't the extra inch or w/e help the angle of the CV?

or could this just be an excuse for sum bigger tires???

thnx

The size of the tire will not change the angle of the CV's.

At this point I see two options for you. If you want to keep the current height of the Frankie, you'll probably need to go with the Jeepin Al's 3/8" shaved axles and A-arms to better handle the CV angles, or, remove the 3/4'' poly spacer and replace Daystar top plate with the stock plate and add a moddest 1/4" - 3/8" clevis lift to reduce the CV angle and the height.

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:21 am

yellocoyote wrote:

Jeep Dawg - were your cv boots still intact both times you've had to replace them as well? My understanding was that you'd notice some kind of damage with the boots before you would experience full-on cv joint failure...

My Boots were intact MOST OF THE TIME. I think It has more to do with my CV angle because I have the HD coils, and no added extra weight in the front.

(DryBones)
I am thinking about removing the frankie and slapping in my old stock saggers and replace my front DS and CV's all at one time to see if it still happends.
If it does not, then I am 100% sure my CV angles were too high.

OR ANOTHER IDEA!
I can get one of thoes road steel plates and cut it to fit under the front as 1 WHOLE front skid. I am sure that will be like 400 LBS That should pull the KJ down a little bit LOL

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:45 pm

Best info I've seen is the Factory Service manual - I bought mine on CD - but Sir Sam has online reference
(Note: they're 60-80Meg each)
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=24600&highlight=manual

I've heard the best CV joints are JE Reels - I haven't tried them
http://www.reeldriveline.com/

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:01 pm

Hey Yellow,
Jeep4me99 did a pretty good write up with some pictures.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=28922

take a look at it. it will give you an idea.
you pretty much need to disassemble your whole IFS on each side to do the job.

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:12 pm

yellocoyote wrote:

Jeep Dawg wrote:

you pretty much need to disassemble your whole IFS on each side to do the job.

Goodie.

It really is not a big deal. If you never did it before, it will take you some time.

I am a PRO at it and I can tear down one side and have the CV with half shaft out in about 30 mins.

You will need to remove the following:

TIRE
BREAKS AND CALPS
LCA NUT FROm THE KNUCKLE
UCA BALL JOINT NUT
WHEEL BEARING
SWAY BAR
STRUT FORK
Jacks and Jack stands......maybe some Jack Daniles TOO!

It is easy if you actually remove the strut tower. But it can be done with it in place. JUST BE CAREFUL OF THE BOOT!

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:20 pm

you can do it yellowcoyote, I know you can! :lol:

Just take your time and don't get drunk and throw parts everywhere and you will be fine!
:lol:

Just like people thinking that swapping out the front diff is hard to do, nothing to it!

Keep the Jack and coke for the celebration afterwards is all :roll:

!

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:45 am

yellocoyote wrote:

tommudd wrote:

Just take your time and don't get drunk and throw parts everywhere and you will be fine! :lol:

But I thought getting drunk ahead of time was great for numbing the pain... :lol:

well it does help when the wrench slips and you say"@#$%$^&*&^%#$$@ !!!!!

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:32 pm

Since I’m about to install the Frankenlift II, I should probably buy the J.E. Reel CV axel assemblies with the 3/8” shaved off. Hopefully the J.E. Reels would prevent premature wear and tear on the CV’s. Any thoughts?

KJ04 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:32 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Since I’m about to install the Frankenlift II, I should probably buy the J.E. Reel CV axel assemblies with the 3/8” shaved off. Hopefully the J.E. Reels would prevent premature wear and tear on the CV’s. Any thoughts?

Couldn't hurt any. Jeepin Al has his own and are cheaper than the Reels.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:03 pm

KJ04 wrote:

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Since I’m about to install the Frankenlift II, I should probably buy the J.E. Reel CV axel assemblies with the 3/8” shaved off. Hopefully the J.E. Reels would prevent premature wear and tear on the CV’s. Any thoughts?

Couldn't hurt any. Jeepin Al has his own and are cheaper than the Reels.

Is one of better quality over the other?

carbolight · **Posted:** Sat Aug 30, 2008 1:20 pm

I used to have a clunking noise on the passenger side. Torquing the JBA UCA made it go away. Now I have this rotational clunking noise only when I turn the steering wheel to the right and push accelerating aggressively; especially off-rood . AS I'm more suspecting the CV joints. I looked at the JBA website to check on the CV axel assemblies and I want to know the differences between the JE Reels and the JBA CV assemblies.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 4:23 pm

how about sway bar mounts needing some grease?

adamkrz · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 4:49 pm

yellocoyote wrote:

So, we installed the new CV's last weekend and I've been driving on them since. No more popping or the rotational grinding sounds, thankfully.

I am, however, hearing a new sound from the passenger front side. I heard it the first time on my way to work this morning, and then again at lunchtime when I ran out. It's squeaking - not sure how to explain it. It's not like a bouncy-type squeak... more like something might be rubbing. :?:

I noticed it the first time when I was braking at a stop light, and then again when the brakes weren't applied and I was just coasting at a slow speed (10-15 mph). I know it's not the front brakes - it's a similar sound, but it doesn't squeak just when the brakes are pressed. Everything else is tightened down the way it was before we made the swap. Does anyone have any ideas on this one?

I'm planning on doing a front diff service tonight - we didn't do that after swapping the cv's, and I didn't want to let it wait too long before doing it.

Does it make a grinding rotational noise when making a hard left? I suspect the front pass. cv - but I've had the noise for at least a year without getting worse.

adamkrz · **Posted:** Thu Oct 09, 2008 6:05 pm

Dang I should read better, Try rotating your tires just to see if could be something so simple, Last week my son rotated his tires on his civic and the tires from the rear which he moved to the front made the worst rotation type noise you can imagine.

mrkake · **Posted:** Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:47 pm

I just replaced the half axles on a Camry a couple of weeks ago and when I got it back together and took it for a test drive and heard a slight grinding noise when making a left turn. I thought that I must have knocked loose one of the pads in the caliper when reassembling. I took off the tire and found that it was just the dust jacket that had gotten bent. I straightened it out and all was well. It can be something simple like that, but you want to identify it soon. Just for your own sanity's sake.

Suspected CV joint problem

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