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 Post subject: Isolator Lift?
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:15 pm 
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I was reading up a bit on the isolator lift's and am a bit curious. So from what I understand, I basically stick a extra set of isolators in (1 in each) and this is a very cheap, and very small lift. I might be completly wrong here, or, I might have found a soltution that I can try to do myself, and give me that .5" lift that will get me happy until I save more cash?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:27 pm 
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Since were talking about cheap lifts, someone remind me what a clevis is? I've been told a rough explanation but never really understood...

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:58 pm 
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yes the isolator lift is where you
put extra ( i had three on each side )
spring pads in the rear. a clevis lift is where you
put conduit washers ( i had four on each side ) between
the bottom of the clevis and the top
of the front shock.

easy lift if your not looking for very much.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:08 pm 
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So I'm talking like, maybe 1" lift? that sounds pretty good to me for, and will give me the time to figure out what I want next.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:14 pm 
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Alright, you sold me, I'm gonna count my pennies, find someone who knows a bit about suspension, and give this a shot. I will let you all know when I actually do it, likely have pics too :)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:24 pm 
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If you have Ranchos or stock struts conduit nuts will not work. Just use a pry bar and move the coil assembly up about 3/8" and tighten the clevis bolts, repeat on other side.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:51 pm 
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Obihann you didn't read this:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=37164

You could also pick up some cheap spacers somewhere, Daystar 2,5" lift comes at around $155.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:09 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
If you have Ranchos or stock struts conduit nuts will not work. Just use a pry bar and move the coil assembly up about 3/8" and tighten the clevis bolts, repeat on other side.


Any other comments on why it wouldn't work with stock struts :? What is the size of the conduit nut?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:15 am 
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You are better of as Tony said pick up a Daystar for about a buck fifty, you will be better this way. as far as the nuts not working on the stock struts they slide over the small stoppers where the fork rests on. Even if you crimp them if you hit hard enough they will slide over. this is another reason why also do not move the fork down without using a spacer, even though it has been done in the past, they will move. just a bit of insight.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:30 am 
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06 KJ Sport wrote:
jeepkj02 wrote:
If you have Ranchos or stock struts conduit nuts will not work. Just use a pry bar and move the coil assembly up about 3/8" and tighten the clevis bolts, repeat on other side.


Any other comments on why it wouldn't work with stock struts :? What is the size of the conduit nut?


2" conduit nuts. I have Rancho RSX17505 and I did a clevis using the conduit nuts and it works just fine

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:21 am 
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The daystar lift is only $155 for you yanks. Us here up in the great white north have to pay $190 + shipping + customs + taxs. So why can't I stick conduit nuts on my stock shocks?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:02 am 
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The conduit nuts are spacers for measurement only - they're not strong enough to be part of the suspension.
the Clevis bolt torque holds it in place.
and yes you can do that with the stock struts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:21 am 
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So would I be safe going out sometime and getting some conduit nuts, and then some rear upper isolators (6 of them), and giving myself a 1.5" boost until I can afford a full spring lift? Assuming I eventually did this, then the bds spring lift, I would be looking at 1.5" in the front (clevis) + 2" front (springs)... so I'm talking a 3.5" lift? is that too high?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:19 am 
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I wouldn't stack more than 3 isolators in the rear. You already have 1 stocker. So get an additional 2 per side = 4 in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:59 am 
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ObiHann wrote:
So would I be safe going out sometime and getting some conduit nuts, and then some rear upper isolators (6 of them), and giving myself a 1.5" boost until I can afford a full spring lift? Assuming I eventually did this, then the bds spring lift, I would be looking at 1.5" in the front (clevis) + 2" front (springs)... so I'm talking a 3.5" lift? is that too high?

You might as well save your money and just pay for the lift you want instead of taking your suspension twice

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:25 pm 
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2 in the rear would give me a total of 1" right? I might just have to wait with the Christmas season coming and all. But as far as doing it twice, I don't really care about that, it gives me a chance to learn.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:32 pm 
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I did a clevis lift without the conduit nuts, after 9 months it still holds up, not sliding back.

Not even when I did what you can see in my avatar. ( the landing was pretty hard without the terraflex bumpstops and with my .75 front pucks )

Kabam!... :shock:

You cannot get a safe 1,5" lift from only the clevis imo, that would meen your stock shock is almost out of the clevis. Keepin it safe: You can gain about 2 centimeters in hight so 1 cm-3/8" clevis lift.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:43 pm 
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not sure why some of you are saying that
conduit washers will not work.

they will work
yes they are for measurement mainly
but in conjuction with the clevis bolt
being tight they do assist overall.

also, kj's have shocks, not struts.
and whether they are rancho or
stock, they are the same design.

if you get the correct washers, you'll
be fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:29 pm 
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Didn't say they won't work - we said they weren't needed - you can add them if you wish and it definitely makes it easier to balance both sides, but it's the Clevis torque and friction that are doing the work.

and the rears are shocks - they dampen the movement of the wheel - but they're not integral to the suspension - whereas the fronts are struts - not the McPherson type that eliminates the upper A arm - but they are still a structural and integral part of the suspension - i.e. the front cannot be assembled without the strut - the rear can be (yeah it'd bounce a lot - but you can bolt it together)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:57 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
If you have Ranchos or stock struts conduit nuts will not work.



realize they arent needed, but it does ensure you are running
the same space on each side. thats the only thing they were
ever for anyway.

either way, the best bang for the buck is the
ome's all around. i ran the conduit nuts with
the ome hd's and it all worked perfectly.!

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