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 Post subject: what size tools?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 6:11 pm 
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Jeep-O-Caching
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Going to be attempting the lift next weekend (weather permitting) and I am wondering what size tools/ socket drives I should be using. 3/8? 1/2? I need to buy a torque wrench too. I should get my tool chest filled up if I need something I don't already have. thanks in advance for the input.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:07 pm 
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21 mm, 10mm, 18mm, 13 mm, hammer (BFH) , screwdriver, front
18 mm, 15 mm rear

that will get you started I think

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:22 pm 
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thanks Tom. I 'm pretty sure I've got all of those in 3/8 should that be ok or will I need to go 1/2 on some of them? Or should I just go wrenches and forget about the rackets?

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Last edited by DryBones on Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:23 pm 
ThunderbirdJunkie always uses 3/8 drive stuff...barely own any 1/2" drive stuff.

However, We would recommend a nice, long swivel head 3/8 ratchet in addition to:

A big compressor
high end 3/8 impact
30 pack of Stroh's
mini fridge

Anything missing?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:25 pm 
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utoh, no compressor or impact tools in my garage.....yet. Do I really need them for this?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:26 pm 
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half inch stuff is nice for the front end

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:48 pm 
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3/8 for the smaller stuff, 1/2 inch for the bigger, should have a nice assortment of each. impacts / airtolls may be faster but it can be done with out, I do it the hard way and thats how I stay in such great shape :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :wink: :lol:

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:57 pm 
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Don't forget a 12mm for the caliper bolts.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:59 pm 
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if its in your budget get a torque wrench, makes re assembly easier

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:13 pm 
tommudd wrote:
3/8 for the smaller stuff, 1/2 inch for the bigger, should have a nice assortment of each. impacts / airtolls may be faster but it can be done with out, I do it the hard way and thats how I stay in such great shape :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :wink: :lol:


And why ThunderbirdJunkie gets winded going to the kitchen for another one pound bag of cheese curls..

Troy, why does he need to remove the caliper bolts? Maybe We are missing something


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:19 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
tommudd wrote:
3/8 for the smaller stuff, 1/2 inch for the bigger, should have a nice assortment of each. impacts / airtolls may be faster but it can be done with out, I do it the hard way and thats how I stay in such great shape :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :wink: :lol:


And why ThunderbirdJunkie gets winded going to the kitchen for another one pound bag of cheese curls..

Troy, why does he need to remove the caliper bolts? Maybe We are missing something
Less to fight with if the caliper is unbolted and less likely to damage the rubber line,makes things come apart and go back together so much easier.Just remember to put the caliper back on before connecting the UCA to the knuckle.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:41 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
.Just remember to put the caliper back on before connecting the UCA to the knuckle.


Ya.. remember that part

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:24 pm 
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If you are using sockets for the big nuts, (ie 18- 21 etc) make sure they are deep reach sockets. otherwise they bottom out on the bolt itself. If you can get them, a good set of rachet spanners are great.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:44 pm 
tjkj2002 wrote:
ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
tommudd wrote:
3/8 for the smaller stuff, 1/2 inch for the bigger, should have a nice assortment of each. impacts / airtolls may be faster but it can be done with out, I do it the hard way and thats how I stay in such great shape :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :wink: :lol:


And why ThunderbirdJunkie gets winded going to the kitchen for another one pound bag of cheese curls..

Troy, why does he need to remove the caliper bolts? Maybe We are missing something
Less to fight with if the caliper is unbolted and less likely to damage the rubber line,makes things come apart and go back together so much easier.Just remember to put the caliper back on before connecting the UCA to the knuckle.


TBH, I don't even remember if i've pulled the caliper off when working on the front end of the KJ :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:50 am 
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Optional tools but highly recomemnded for those frustrating moments....

12oz cans of a good brew.



*Disclaimer* The term "brew" could be anything that comes in a 12 oz can and wets your whistle.

*2nd DISCLAIMER* You must be age 21 or older or have parental permission (state law dependent) to consume any beverage containing alcohol.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:58 am 
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3rd disclaimer:

what gets drank in the garage gets forgotten when leaving the garage

4th disclaimer:

words that get uttered in the garage shall be droned out by the radio and forgotten about upon completion of work

5th disclaimer:

a little blood on various vehicle components lets it know you care
warning- vehicle may begin to adopt traits of the blood doner

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:02 am 
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6th disclaimer:

Any color of electrical tape is not acceptable in place of a good quality duct tape...

7th disclaimer:

Only use the electrical tape to seal off holes in ones body that my be expelling blood

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:19 pm 
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Ratchet strap might help
just to hold stuff in place
or to get stuff into place

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:19 pm 
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Never removed the caliper myself, I always just use a coat hanger through the stud hole for the upper control arm to wire it up and prevent any stress on the brake line until re-assembled.

If you are doing the lift on your own a rachet strap will come in handy to help keep the strut pulled back while you connect the clevis to the lower control arm, if it is an OTT lift than the rachet strap will be less of an assist and more of a necessity.

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Last edited by SweepnChoke on Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:04 pm 
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ratchet strap....check
zip ties....check
electrical and duct tape.....check
12 oz. brews.....CHECK

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