LOST JEEPS :: View topic - UCA install help

pop the UBJ out and two bolts per side for the upper arm, do the drivers side first then the passenger when drop in like nothing. Rear drivers side is a bear to get to, but doable, just takes a little while, extensions, good tight swivels Oh and torque them when you have it down on the ground again, plus I had to retighten my drivers side a week later, had a little noise, maybe drank too much after doing the right side???? :shock:

Have something to cut the pockets out top and bottom some while you are at it. Will not take long at all!

Cool thanks for that. I thought I read somewhere that cutting the pockets was bad..I think TJKJ said that. I don't remember why though. any others got words of wisdom for doing this or have a thread or link they can point me to?

how did you guys get to the rear bolt on the drivers side? from up top or below? I have so much crap in the way I dont see how to get much leverage to get it out?

Author:	0311_DoC [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:07 pm ]
Post subject:	UCA install help
I am going to be changing out my UCA's this week and would like some tips on how to do this as easy as possible. any special tricks or tools? I know I am gonna have to take out the battery on the drivers side and the air box on the passenger side which is gonna be real fun now that the snork is in place any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Author:	ATXKJ [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:35 pm ]
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Tom's comment tommudd wrote: pop the UBJ out and two bolts per side for the upper arm, do the drivers side first then the passenger when drop in like nothing. Rear drivers side is a bear to get to, but doable, just takes a little while, extensions, good tight swivels Oh and torque them when you have it down on the ground again, plus I had to retighten my drivers side a week later, had a little noise, maybe drank too much after doing the right side???? Have something to cut the pockets out top and bottom some while you are at it. Will not take long at all! (I didn't change mine - dealer did - extended warranty)

Author:	0311_DoC [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:42 pm ]
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Cool thanks for that. I thought I read somewhere that cutting the pockets was bad..I think TJKJ said that. I don't remember why though. any others got words of wisdom for doing this or have a thread or link they can point me to?

Author:	JeepinJarhead03 [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:44 pm ]
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yea after they cut the pockets they found that it made it droop too much

Author:	Rock Lizard [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:48 pm ]
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0311_DoC wrote: Cool thanks for that. I thought I read somewhere that cutting the pockets was bad..I think TJKJ said that. I don't remember why though. any others got words of wisdom for doing this or have a thread or link they can point me to? Leave the pockets alone. We have installed a lot of lifts and arms and wheeled with a lot of KJ's and we have never cut a single pocket, but have had to reconstruct one because it allowed the suspension to drop too much and bind the CV shafts. The pockets will start to self clearance and act as bumpstops as time goes on. A retractable magnet is nice to have for getting that flange nut at the front of the battery tray, and a long extention and swivel are good to have for the drivers side rear bolt.

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Author:	0311_DoC [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:52 pm ]
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So do I jack up the front end of the KJ and put it on Jack stands and have both front tires off the ground or do one side at a time? Or is it ok to just jack up the KJ under the LCA and go from there? This is why I am changing them out : Drivers side upper ball joint Passenger side upper ball joint

Author:	RAYMAN975 [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:57 pm ]
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you can jack up the jeep and put jackstands under the "jack spots" on the frame rails behind the lower control arms yea, a breaker bar, torque wrench, 1/2" drive sockets and plenty of extensions are a good idea. 3/8 ratchet is ok for the battery tray and stuff. edit: looks like your grease fittings are broke too. when you put on your new arms, make sure you notch out your upper control arm bumpstops for the grease fitting ohhh, and for getting that nut on the front of the battery tray, put some masking tape around it just enough so it fits snug inside the 13mm socket

Author:	0311_DoC [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:06 pm ]
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the fittings aren't broke they still work I just greased em the other day. I always thought they were like that for the ease of greasing them.. I just now looked at them and they aren't bent at all, I think thats how they came ??? got any pics or can you tell me how to "notch" the bump stops so I can have an idea how to cut them?

Author:	ken [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:49 pm ]
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I did mine one side at a time, the only thing you will for sure thank the lord for is a long set of extensions to reach the rearward uca bolt on drivers side. Other then that it was easy.A 3- 4 out of 10 on install difficultness. IMO

Author:	0311_DoC [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:53 pm ]
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cool. like I said other than that rear bolt on the drivers side I think my head ache is gonna be the air box since its all sealed with the urethane for the snorkel....

Author:	RAYMAN975 [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:02 pm ]
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oh i see now that you pointed it out, they must be 45* angled grease fittings

Author:	0311_DoC [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:24 pm ]
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Well the brown truck just showed up... So I will hope to have these on by the weekend after work..

Author:	RAYMAN975 [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:37 pm ]
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sweet!!! i want i want!! as soon as funds allow within the next few weeks!

Author:	JMSMN [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 10:10 pm ]
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I replaced the UCA on an early model KJ and to remove the rear bolt and reinstall I found that a 12" needle nose worked great. Grab the tab on the bolt and pull right out, just as easy going back in. That was on the drivers side also.

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Wed Jul 01, 2009 10:21 pm ]
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Make sure your KJ is completely cooled before working on it.A 15"-18" 3/8" drive extension, impact swivel,and a deepwell 18MM socket is what I use for those rear bolts.You may or may not need to unbolt the front brake line blockes(one 10mm bolt) to allow you to move the brake line for the front UCA mount bolts.

Author:	tonycrd [ Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:22 pm ]
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huh... those are the Gen 4.5 I suppose....no spacers for the joints?? Mine: And I did cut the front pocket a little.

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Author:	0311_DoC [ Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:44 am ]
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how did you guys get to the rear bolt on the drivers side? from up top or below? I have so much crap in the way I dont see how to get much leverage to get it out?

Author:	jeepkj02 [ Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:50 pm ]
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I know its too late, but you do know that you can replace the ball joints on those control arms.

Author:	JJsTJ [ Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:07 pm ]
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0311_DoC wrote: how did you guys get to the rear bolt on the drivers side? from up top or below? I have so much crap in the way I dont see how to get much leverage to get it out? couple extensions, a swivel and socket did the trick for me. I used all impacts btw and wedged my air impact in there to run it out. Hand threaded it back on during install and tightened w/ ratchet and then torque wrench. tight fit but doable. Have used same process on several upper arm installs. wish i had taken pics of it all during one of those nightmares.