LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Crd clevis lift?

OK i had to pull this old one up.

With the clevis bolt in place, and the shock lip firmly against the clevis, under full droop, the clevis barely avoids shredding the drivers side cv knuckle boot. This is with a CRD Franken II lift from allj's.

The uca also barely avoids touching the spring under full droop.
The lca seems to be at it's lowest possible arc, minus a few millimeters.

So the lca goes down a few mm, this gives me a 2-3 mm gap for one clevis ring (but is no where near enough room to actually put a conduit nut in place) And then there is no way to get more slac out of the lca or uca (coil touching)

What should i do in order to put the rings in place? It seems like i have to remove the strut? I MIGHT be able to get away with removing the driveshaft? Tony, how the hell did you do yours?

The passenger side, looks super easy, no trouble there at all.

EDIT and i assume after i were to add the clevis lift, my uca would hit the coils?

Author:	CRDMiller [ Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:04 am ]
Post subject:	Crd clevis lift?
I've been eying some of the kj's around here and i cant help but notice some of em are alot higher than mine, i've been thinking about adding a couple, (or three :P) of the conduit nuts for the clevis lift, but the drivers side cv looks pretty steep already, anyone out there do it anyway? and have you had problems?

Author:	Lancer [ Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:23 am ]
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PM CRDTony - he's done it.

Author:	JL Rockies [ Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:38 am ]
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Wouldn't be prudent but you'll end up doing it anyway.

Author:	tommudd [ Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:25 am ]
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If you are comparing gassers to CRDs then yes some will be higher than you. You can lift a gasser a little more due to the CVs are shorter on the drivers side in the CRD and can only go up so much without problems. Don't look at how much lift you have, but if it works well, rides well and does what you need it to do. There are a lot of times in life when you may look and someone elses is taller, bigger or something, its all how you use what you got

Author:	tonycrd [ Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:27 am ]
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You'll never get as high as the Franky on a gasser, because of the weigth of our engines and as you say the CV's. I did the 3 ring clevis and no issues.

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Author:	CRDMiller [ Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:56 pm ]
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Thanks tony. Because of my 235/85's I just wonder what it would be like. I have to remove my fender flares even with my sway bar connected because i can knock them off when in mud or hitting "whoops" in the desert. I don't want to give up even more articulation to bump stops. I love the 235's on the road (mpg/revs) but i guess 265/75's would be better for wheeling. I also got to use the stock rim, witch is excellent because i like the way they look. This might give me the extra clearance I need. The cv damage would be a bonus :P I am VERRY happy with the ride quality and performance of the lift i have, if i wanted a monster truck, i would have built one :P Anyway i'm glad to hear that others have done it without damage.

Author:	Luc.Blais [ Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:33 am ]
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I got a 1 ring clevis on my rig, 1/2" rear spacers and the CRD is leveled. 16000km with this config, no prob. Here's some pics ...

Author:	tonycrd [ Mon Jul 20, 2009 7:52 am ]
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Your only solution to avoid ripping the fender flares of: - bumpstops - lower tires.... Saying that fitting bumpstops will shorten articulation is relative...your tires are now rubbing on the flares...so much for extra flex. You already gained 2,5" with your OME springs. So if you fit a 2,5" bumpstop...you still have the front flex asif it was stock.

Author:	KJ 119 [ Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:16 pm ]
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Shaggyislandboy has a frankie with 235's and clevis lift,with no problems. CRDMiller wrote: I love the 235's on the road (mpg/revs) but i guess 265/75's would be better for wheeling. I also got to use the stock rim, witch is excellent because i like the way they look. I would say 235 are better IMHO.I've seen'em both in action. What I've observed: 235's rub on rear flairs a lil with no damage to tire. 265's rub severely on rear flairs poping them in and out,and get shreaded from flairs(slices in outer knobs). There's no doubt wider is better,but at what cost?I'll be switching from 245's to 235's next go round.

Author:	CRDMiller [ Sat Jul 25, 2009 6:01 am ]
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So i had a go at the drivers side a hour or so ago, i disco'd the sway bar, and i absolutely could not get the clevis off of the shock, i chewed up the shock lip a little bit to where i did not want to continue, I maby got it to move up 1/16'th of an inch, i put it back together :P. I used a regular prybar nothing special, seemed like it was binding on the back side. I'll have a go at it later, maby when it's not 1 am? :P

Author:	KJ 119 [ Sat Jul 25, 2009 10:22 pm ]
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Update?How'd the day go?

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Sat Jul 25, 2009 10:40 pm ]
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KJ 119 wrote: 265's rub severely on rear flairs poping them in and out,and get shreaded from flairs(slices in outer knobs). Only if you do not have correct length bumbstops and correct wheel width and BS.With my 265/75's I barely touch the very lowest part of the front part of the rear flares at full flex,some trimming was done on the flares also,noth real extreme though and still looks stock.

Author:	Dave08 [ Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:03 pm ]
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tonycrd wrote: Your only solution to avoid ripping the fender flares of: - bumpstops - lower tires.... Or a Clevis lift... Same travel as w/o a clevis lift, only now the hub assembly is 1/4"- 3/4" lower than it would be w/o the clevis lift.

Author:	CRDMiller [ Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:27 am ]
Post subject:
OK i had to pull this old one up. With the clevis bolt in place, and the shock lip firmly against the clevis, under full droop, the clevis barely avoids shredding the drivers side cv knuckle boot. This is with a CRD Franken II lift from allj's. The uca also barely avoids touching the spring under full droop. The lca seems to be at it's lowest possible arc, minus a few millimeters. So the lca goes down a few mm, this gives me a 2-3 mm gap for one clevis ring (but is no where near enough room to actually put a conduit nut in place) And then there is no way to get more slac out of the lca or uca (coil touching) What should i do in order to put the rings in place? It seems like i have to remove the strut? I MIGHT be able to get away with removing the driveshaft? Tony, how the hell did you do yours? The passenger side, looks super easy, no trouble there at all. EDIT and i assume after i were to add the clevis lift, my uca would hit the coils?

Author:	CRDMiller [ Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:12 pm ]
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Thanks a lot tony! bfg km2 235/85/r16-e are actually, exactly, 32 inches. not 21.9, but 32. My speed is not, off at all. (it's more accurate now than when it was stock) I had the computer reprogrammed for 650 revs a mile. It's perfect up till 55 and then it's off by 2-3 mph high. (i think the gauge is just inaccurate) This is verified by gps. Stock the gauge was about 4 mph high over 60. When i first had the new rubber on, i was not shifting into top gear untill 72 MPH! (real, not indicated). I've thought about going back and having them re-program my speed to 600 revs a mile (the max) (300/mile is the minimum) and enjoy pre f37 shift points.

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Author:	Pablo [ Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:51 am ]
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CRDMiller wrote: OK i had to pull this old one up. With the clevis bolt in place, and the shock lip firmly against the clevis, under full droop, the clevis barely avoids shredding the drivers side cv knuckle boot. This is with a CRD Franken II lift from allj's. The uca also barely avoids touching the spring under full droop. The lca seems to be at it's lowest possible arc, minus a few millimeters. So the lca goes down a few mm, this gives me a 2-3 mm gap for one clevis ring (but is no where near enough room to actually put a conduit nut in place) And then there is no way to get more slac out of the lca or uca (coil touching) What should i do in order to put the rings in place? It seems like i have to remove the strut? I MIGHT be able to get away with removing the driveshaft? Tony, how the hell did you do yours? The passenger side, looks super easy, no trouble there at all. EDIT and i assume after i were to add the clevis lift, my uca would hit the coils? Are you running stock UCA's or aftermarket? Aftermarket will help with the coils hitting. To keep the boot from getting shredded you are going to need a limiting strap.

Author:	tonycrd [ Fri Aug 21, 2009 6:53 pm ]
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I disconnected the sway bar on both ends. Then you pop out the UBJ. That allows the LCA's to droop even more. Tadaaa, plenty of space. You can now disconnect the Clevis from the shock. Slide on the conduit nuts, replace the clevis. I also have Rusty's topplate spacers, that would work on yours too. Only little thing I have now noticed is that at full lock and full droop (when does that ever happen..) the tie rod ends touch the sway bar.. Ok I know...the 100th time I post this pic. But he, a pic says more then a 1000 words! Since I switched to JBA's when I fitted this lift I wouldn't know if your UCA's are going to hit the spring, remember that after you lower it from the jack our CRD's dive down quite a bit so if you can still put you finger inbetween the UCA and the spring at normal ride hight I'd say your fine. Same goes for the left CV boot. At full droop it all seems scary. On a side note, I think your tires are way to big. 31,72" is pushing it...your speedo is now almost 10% wrong...they do rub on the swaybar for sure on stock rims. (mine did with only 235/70/16's) 265/70/16 is max size for a CRD imo. That's 30,6" diameter.