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 Post subject: help w/ daystar lift...IT WON'T FIT!!!.
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:51 pm 
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After much research, communicating with this site, downloading install instructions w/ pictures, my Daystar kit won't fit. The clevis lower bolt holes are 1-1/2" away from the LCA clevis mounting bracket when the lower strut poly spacer hits the frame. To get it any closer puts severe strain on the clevis and the strut. Am I doing it wrong? The kit was recommended by this site and Daystar for my stock '06 KJ Sport gasser. I hope the pictures below show what I mean. PLEASE HELP!!

The clevis is pulled up as tight as I can get it with clamps and everything is under severe strain.
Image

The poly spacer is tight against the frame when clamped.
Image

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:57 pm 
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Take 2 ratchet straps and hook one on each of the clevis "forks",then attach to something on the other side like the skid plate and ratchet strap the clevis over to put the bolt back in.You also may need to pry the LCA down via a very large prybar or pipe.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:16 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Take 2 ratchet straps and hook one on each of the clevis "forks",then attach to something on the other side like the skid plate and ratchet strap the clevis over to put the bolt back in.You also may need to pry the LCA down via a very large prybar or pipe.


Thanks, tjkj. I'll give it a try tomorrow. One more question, though. I had to unbolt the brake caliper assembly because the brake line wouldn't let the LCA drop enough to line up the clevis bolt holes. Does that mean when fully extended the brake line will be under too much strain?

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'06 4X4 KJ, skid plates, Daystar lift, Wrangler MT/R 245/75/16, Reese hitch, Surco Safari Rack/Hella 500's, Cobra 75 wxst/Wilson 4' Firestick, Optima Red Top, Pilot fog lights, Detours KJ Backbone/Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Spidertrax spacers.

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 Post subject: Re: help w/ daystar lift...IT WON'T FIT!!!.
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:19 pm 
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jhblackwell wrote:
Image


Is it just me, or is the LCA cracked below where the C-clamp is in this photo???

John, call me tomorrow, I've got ratchet straps you can borrow.

There was a problem when we put Greg's (ChiroKJ) Frankenlift on with getting everything to line up and the only solution was to move the cam bolt. See here:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=44968&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=bolt&start=20

Got your PM on the space issue. Thanks anyway. I've got others asking around too. :wink:

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Last edited by Cobalt-60 on Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:35 pm 
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Yep, I had to crank the cam bolts for as much relief as I could possibly get. I had basically the same problem you are having. Once I moved the cam bolts, it still needed some force. Good news is, the passenger side is a lot easier than the driver side. Good luck.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:47 pm 
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Been said several times, drivers side on a lift ( when using Daystar or Frankenlift ) is way harder to install

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 Post subject: Re: help w/ daystar lift...IT WON'T FIT!!!.
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:35 am 
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Is it just me, or is the LCA cracked below where the C-clamp is in this photo???

No. Just a shadow of a casting fin

John, call me tomorrow, I've got ratchet straps you can borrow.

Thanks, Colin. I've got 2" ratchet straps I'm going to try. If they don't work I'll give you a call

There was a problem when we put Greg's (ChiroKJ) Frankenlift on with getting everything to line up and the only solution was to move the cam bolt. See here:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=44968&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=bolt&start=20

I remember that conversation, and I really don't want to mess w/ the cam bolts. If I do, I think I have to reference-mark the bolt in order to reinstall it properly, correct?

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'06 4X4 KJ, skid plates, Daystar lift, Wrangler MT/R 245/75/16, Reese hitch, Surco Safari Rack/Hella 500's, Cobra 75 wxst/Wilson 4' Firestick, Optima Red Top, Pilot fog lights, Detours KJ Backbone/Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Spidertrax spacers.

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 Post subject: Re: help w/ daystar lift...IT WON'T FIT!!!.
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:44 am 
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jhblackwell wrote:
I remember that conversation, and I really don't want to mess w/ the cam bolts. If I do, I think I have to reference-mark the bolt in order to reinstall it properly, correct?


Yes, just mark it with a grease pencil or a piece of chalk. We didn't on Greg's but he took his to a place to get an alignment done the next day (knowing that he would probably have to get the alignment done again once the Jeep settled).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:48 pm 
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I used a spre floor jack to lift the lower arm up and compress the spring. I had a rod I used to alaign the holes until the bolt just dropped in and through.

Jason

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:26 pm 
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Yes! This is the same problem I had installing mine. But everyone is pointing you in the right direction. Be sure to use 2 ratchet straps like Troy suggested. That way you can pull on each side of the clevis independently. I had to turn my cam bolts too. I just marked them with a scratch-awl and then turned them back after the LCA was connected. No big deal really. You are going to need an alignment ASAP anyway. One more hint is to remove the clevis clamp bolt that clamps the clevis to the shock. That will allow for just a little more wiggle room. Good luck.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:30 pm 
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HALLELUHA!! I got the front done with all the help ya'll provided. Suffering fron 'oldtimers' I forgot about the ratchet strap trick, even tho it was mentioned in the instructions I printed out (as my son pointed out). It worked like a charm and the passenger side was much easier than the drivers side, as mentioned. Torqueing up the passenger side sway bar bolt twisted it off (DOH!) but Autozone had a grade 8 bolt that will do until I can get to the dealer. I hope to get the rear done this week by taking a day off. The pictures below show the progress so far. When done I'll post the pictures of the lift that may help other '06 owners. Again, this site rocks and all of ya'll have been invaluable in helping me through this. THANK YOU!! :D

BEFORE THE LIFT
Image

AFTER THE LIFT (FRONT ONLY)
Image

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"Keep the shiny side up and the oily side down"
'06 4X4 KJ, skid plates, Daystar lift, Wrangler MT/R 245/75/16, Reese hitch, Surco Safari Rack/Hella 500's, Cobra 75 wxst/Wilson 4' Firestick, Optima Red Top, Pilot fog lights, Detours KJ Backbone/Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Spidertrax spacers.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:15 pm 
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Good going!!!!! :D

The rear is a cake-walk compared to the front. If you want to make it even easier take off the rear sway-bar.

While your under there you might as well take off the (ahem...) "vibrational mass dampener" :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:21 pm 
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Good job! I just got home from installing the drivers side of this kit in my 06 with 25k miles. It was a pain. but I gotta thank everyone who mentioned the use of ratchet straps. If it wasn't for this site I would have given up. I'm glad the passenger side is easier, because I'll have to tackle that next weekend.


So thanks to everyone who mentioned the use of the ratchet straps!

Sorry to jump in on your thread but good job. It wasn't easy for sure!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:49 am 
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tier10 wrote:

Sorry to jump in on your thread but good job. It wasn't easy for sure!


No problemo. That's what this site is all about.

WARNING!! The reason I snapped the stabilizer bar link lower bolt was THE FRANKENLIFT SPECS ARE WRONG!!. The service manual for an '06 specifies 85 ft.lbs. NOT 100. Also the clevis bracket bolt at the bottom of the strut shock should be 45 ft.lbs. NOT 65 as stated.
It's my fault for not checking the service manual and now I have to crawl back to the house and re-torque the stabilizer link bolt and the clevis bolt. :evil:
I'll try to post all the torque specs for the front and rear when I have time (at work right now).

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"Keep the shiny side up and the oily side down"
'06 4X4 KJ, skid plates, Daystar lift, Wrangler MT/R 245/75/16, Reese hitch, Surco Safari Rack/Hella 500's, Cobra 75 wxst/Wilson 4' Firestick, Optima Red Top, Pilot fog lights, Detours KJ Backbone/Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Spidertrax spacers.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:36 pm 
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jhblackwell wrote:
tier10 wrote:

Sorry to jump in on your thread but good job. It wasn't easy for sure!


No problemo. That's what this site is all about.

WARNING!! The reason I snapped the stabilizer bar link lower bolt was THE FRANKENLIFT SPECS ARE WRONG!!. The service manual for an '06 specifies 85 ft.lbs. NOT 100. Also the clevis bracket bolt at the bottom of the strut shock should be 45 ft.lbs. NOT 65 as stated.
It's my fault for not checking the service manual and now I have to crawl back to the house and re-torque the stabilizer link bolt and the clevis bolt. :evil:
I'll try to post all the torque specs for the front and rear when I have time (at work right now).
To late for retorquing those bolts,the damage has been done(bolt stretch) so the only fix is for replacement.Doesn't really matter anyway since that lower clevis bolt is a M14 bolt with a 10.9 hardness and can withstand up to 150lbs-ft or torque anyway,plus those swaybar bolts are M12's and can easily withstand 100lbs-ft of torque as they are also 10.9 hardness bolts.Corrosion was your problem not over torquing.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:57 pm 
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Quote:
To late for retorquing those bolts,the damage has been done(bolt stretch) so the only fix is for replacement.Doesn't really matter anyway since that lower clevis bolt is a M14 bolt with a 10.9 hardness and can withstand up to 150lbs-ft or torque anyway,plus those swaybar bolts are M12's and can easily withstand 100lbs-ft of torque as they are also 10.9 hardness bolts.Corrosion was your problem not over torquing.

It's the upper clevis bolt on the strut shock that is over-torqued...and not by much. Are you saying not to worry about 15 lbs. over-torque ("doesn't really matter anyway")? I was planning on backing off and re-torqueing the sway bar link lower bolt as well as the upper clevis bolt. I've only put 16 miles and 30 hours on the over-torque since I've taken the day off tomorrow to finish the rear lift and re-torque the bolts. After that I plan on taking it to the dealer for a front end allignment and to replace the grade 8 bolt I have on the passenger side sway bar link lower bushing. I can replace all the over-torqued bolts, if necessary, but I need to let the dealer know so they can order the bolts from Atlanta. Again, it's just the upper clevis bracket bolt at the strut shock and the sway bar link lower bolt at the LCA that are over-torqued. I really appreciate the info and am concerned about safety so any input is greatly appreciated.

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"Keep the shiny side up and the oily side down"
'06 4X4 KJ, skid plates, Daystar lift, Wrangler MT/R 245/75/16, Reese hitch, Surco Safari Rack/Hella 500's, Cobra 75 wxst/Wilson 4' Firestick, Optima Red Top, Pilot fog lights, Detours KJ Backbone/Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Spidertrax spacers.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:20 am 
tier10 wrote:
Good job! I just got home from installing the drivers side of this kit in my 06 with 25k miles. It was a pain. but I gotta thank everyone who mentioned the use of ratchet straps. If it wasn't for this site I would have given up. I'm glad the passenger side is easier, because I'll have to tackle that next weekend.


So thanks to everyone who mentioned the use of the ratchet straps!

Sorry to jump in on your thread but good job. It wasn't easy for sure!


...Bet that thing pulls HARD to the right...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 3:31 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

...Bet that thing pulls HARD to the right...


It's still on jack stands! :(

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