Well I thought my CVs were bad as I have a bad clicking/binding noise/feel. Left the truck on roadside yesterday it was so bad. Went today and jacked up front. Both tires rotated freely with both transfer case and tranny in N. By shifting back and forth I was able to get noise/Binding to stop and was able to drive about 3 miles home no problem. Once home I got noise to come back by putting in 4H. I am thinking my CVs are ok and its something in front diff or driveshaft or transfer case. I am going to check all fluid levels tonight or tomorrow. If they are good I am thinking of taking out front driveshaft and see what that does. (driveshaft boots seem ok/little play back and forth when i grip shaft and turn)
Has any one had same issue. How do you tell if driveshaft is ok?
Any thoughts
Please help
Jim

most typically with the front ds the rear CV boot will tear, allowing the CV joint wear out. If your boots arent torn the drive shaft is PROBABLY ok.

its not too hard to pull it out, may try it anyway.

were you in 4WD prior to having the binding? the tcase may have hung up in 4wd even if it didnt show that on the dash, or shifter..

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2003 limited 3.7L V6
Vader Edition

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3219059

Hey Hood,
I have not been in 4 in a while, Was in 2 when happened.
What would symptom of bad driveshaft be?
Does anyone think it could be the differential?
I was convinced it was Cvs until I jacked up and spun wheels. Nothing was binding or grinding or anything.
Does everything rotate on these even when in two wheel?
thanks

How much is a little play??? THere should be no play! I just had the DS replaced on my KJ because boot had torn and DS would turn almost an inch either way... So basically if it moves or boot is torn, its probably toast!

Ohh and when your in 2wd you will prob still here it making some noise because its always working...but then when you put it in 4wd your putting load on the DS so it will be REALLY loud! Mine had a really loud grinding sound under load and some noise without...

theres a video of a bad driveshaft.. the rotational slack isnt bad, its the forward/aft slack that is a sign of a bad one, along with a torn boot.

however i doubt it would bind up so bad as to make you feel as if you needed to stop.. and yes even in 2 wheel you will be spinning everything the same as 4wheel, but you arent powering it.

_________________
2003 limited 3.7L V6
Vader Edition

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3219059

On mine it was that rear boot that had dissappeared and thus allowed the inside to disintegrate. I only had loud noise when in 4wd there was only a very slight clicking whn in 2wd.

I'd bet that if that rear boot is gone or torn than the guts are done for too.

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Brian, Blue KJ in PA
LOST#99, Mid-Atlantic LOST
Blue 2003 KJ Sport

RL Super Skinks

It could still be your CV's. Crawl under your Jeep and see if the CV's have any side/side play. If so they are done. Also if you press up hard on the inner portion of the CV and it moves up/down more than 1/8" then they are bad. Sometimes you gotta press up really hard.

I've had 2 go bad without the boots being torn at all.

Also those CV front drive shafts suck. Replace with U-joint/Double Cardian joint shafts.

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Randy, Apache Junction, Arizona
04 Liberty
Blown motor and extensive body damage.

Thanks all,
Checked fluid in front diff and transfer case. Front diff was low, I filled and drove about 100yards and bam noise was back. Removed front driveshaft and I believe its shot. Back "CV" is almost rusted solid and yes the boot is gone.
Hood, It was really bad and definently made me stop driving.
So it looks like im in the market for new front DS.
Anybody got recomendations? How much for custom setup as djui5 mentioned?
I will be going to Mr. Driveshaft (really) tomorrow to see what he says.
Its ok to drive without it, right?
For anybody following my other posts I was able to drive it enough tonight to make the check engine light go away -had a 0161 and 0158 changed right rear o2 sensor.
Front R cv boot still torn as well as lower ball joint boot. They will be next.
then I need to get the bubbling coolant issue fixed and make two more payments.
New motor and install $2500, driveshaft$?$, Front CV axel and LBJ $200-$300. Liberty priceless.
Who knows whats next
Anyone want to buy it? Thanks all for help so far

Jim,
Any good local drive shaft/axle shop should be able to put one in for you. Mine cost me $420 installed. If they put a double cardian joint at the T-case end they might have to grind down the bracket for the t-case shifter to make room. Make sure they give it enough clearance for flexing/vibrations. It makes a really annoying noise if they don't.

Yes you can drive without the front DS, just don't put it in 4wd.

If you use your Jeep off the highway I'd recommend this. If not, then a CV shaft will be just fine. Get that CV joint fixed soon too! If that fails you're gonna have real problems.

_________________
Randy, Apache Junction, Arizona
04 Liberty
Blown motor and extensive body damage.