LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Adding Lockers

Somewhere in the vast recesses of the memory banks there is a thread here about my question. But, I'll be *^%#%& if I can find it!

My limited slip-ed KJ wants to be locked front and back. But she is only getting 1 at a time. Which one first?

Terry

Fulltimer wrote:

First, it would depend on what type of locker that you’re going to install. And second, (most people would probably disagree with me) I would lock the front first.

what is best locker scenario for dd and offroad conditions?just for curiosity sake.i still have to get the belly off the ground, and protect the goods, but someday i want to just go without hesitation

The best for offroad and is invisible for DD is the ARB lockers F/R,a good second is the DTT front and ARB rear(the combo I ran and kicked stupid).

I plan to go with ARB in both. I was thinking the front would be the way to go but better safe than sorry....so just ask! :lol:

Thanks guys!

Terry

My thought on front first (especially with a selectable like the ARB) is that with all the grenading fronts with extra slippage, you can try an obstacle with the rear locked/ls, and front open, if it works, great, if not, wait for front to stop spinning, lock it then crawl right up.

Both of you are making good sense! I don't normally hit the skinny petal all that hard but sometimes things just happen. I always keep in mind about that front end. Any hops I hit the break.

Terry

Fulltimer wrote:

Both of you are making good sense! I don't normally hit the skinny petal all that hard but sometimes things just happen. I always keep in mind about that front end. Any hops I hit the break.

Terry

Maybe I’m taking the literature out of context, but I’ve read that the ARB locker actually makes your front differential stronger.

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Maybe I’m taking the literature out of context, but I’ve read that the ARB locker actually makes your front differential stronger.

I do not know if I would believe that, as it does nothing to reinforce the housing, if anything, where they want you to drill in the instructions is directly over where many have cracked, and my installer drilled mine further off the side of center because he recognized the weakness there. Long story short, I think a few have grenaded with ARBs in front also, the same problem with the housing will be there, you just need to be carefull with spin regardless of open or locked.

Author:	Fulltimer [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 5:16 am ]
Post subject:	Adding Lockers
Somewhere in the vast recesses of the memory banks there is a thread here about my question. But, I'll be *^%#%& if I can find it! My limited slip-ed KJ wants to be locked front and back. But she is only getting 1 at a time. Which one first? Terry

Author:	dieselenthusiast [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:08 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Adding Lockers
Fulltimer wrote: Somewhere in the vast recesses of the memory banks there is a thread here about my question. But, I'll be *^%#%& if I can find it! My limited slip-ed KJ wants to be locked front and back. But she is only getting 1 at a time. Which one first? Terry First, it would depend on what type of locker that you’re going to install. And second, (most people would probably disagree with me) I would lock the front first.

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:57 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Adding Lockers
dieselenthusiast wrote: Fulltimer wrote: Somewhere in the vast recesses of the memory banks there is a thread here about my question. But, I'll be *^%#%& if I can find it! My limited slip-ed KJ wants to be locked front and back. But she is only getting 1 at a time. Which one first? Terry First, it would depend on what type of locker that you’re going to install. And second, (most people would probably disagree with me) I would lock the front first. X2 Since you have the trask loc in the rear lock the front 1st,it will be more helpfull till you can get a real locker in the rear.

Author:	phluffhead [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:08 am ]
Post subject:
what is best locker scenario for dd and offroad conditions?just for curiosity sake.i still have to get the belly off the ground, and protect the goods, but someday i want to just go without hesitation

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:34 am ]
Post subject:
phluffhead wrote: what is best locker scenario for dd and offroad conditions?just for curiosity sake.i still have to get the belly off the ground, and protect the goods, but someday i want to just go without hesitation The best for offroad and is invisible for DD is the ARB lockers F/R,a good second is the DTT front and ARB rear(the combo I ran and kicked stupid).

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Author:	Fulltimer [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:45 am ]
Post subject:
I plan to go with ARB in both. I was thinking the front would be the way to go but better safe than sorry....so just ask! Thanks guys! Terry

Author:	Chino78 [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:59 am ]
Post subject:
tjkj2002 wrote: The best for offroad and is invisible for DD is the ARB lockers F/R,a good second is the DTT front and ARB rear(the combo I ran and kicked stupid). What about the OX lockers? they are selectable and seems to be more reliable (mechanical design: cable and shifter) than ARB(no air compresor, air lines, etc) They offer one for our IFS dana 30

Author:	oddball [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:16 pm ]
Post subject:
Fulltimer wrote: I plan to go with ARB in both. I was thinking the front would be the way to go but better safe than sorry....so just ask! Thanks guys! Terry The front, huh? Interesting, I too have given this some thought since I am removing the DTT & Powertrax to install ARB's. I also need the compressor & hose kit. Why the front first? Btw; I surfed over to the Tellico 4x4 website. Anyone know if this would be a good place to purchase the ARB's?

Author:	tommudd [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:39 pm ]
Post subject:
why the front first?? Well in Terrys case he has the factory locker already in the rear so he can run that a while yet. Installing an ARB in the front would allow him to be locked on both ends right away and then replace the rear stock locker at a later date when time and money allows. Yes I vote for the ARB front and rear, easy to use, no problems on the highway, smooth operation.

Author:	oddball [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:42 pm ]
Post subject:
Okay, but in my case, I am removing the Powertrax in the rear - should I replace it with the ARB, or do the front first? - Thanks.

Author:	USAFCOP [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:54 pm ]
Post subject:
If the powertrax is still working and not grinding, I would go with the front first because it will be the more expensive install due to the front end needing dissassembled.

Author:	oddball [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 2:52 pm ]
Post subject:
Yeah it still works. Regardless, it's coming out. - Thanks.

Author:	Fulltimer [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 3:55 pm ]
Post subject:
My line of thinking as far as doing the front first is this: BTW, I could be way off too! Front wheel drive cars get better traction in snow etc. than rear wheel drive. Maybe it's because of the added weight in the front, or maybe because you can pull better than you can push. It could also be a combination of both. I have a little, very little, help in the rear with the limited slip. Give the front a healthy shot of traction and I'm good to go for awhile. I have a CO2 tank already so I won't need to buy a compressor. Besides I can use the CO2 for air tools and airing up tires etc. Terry

Author:	USAFCOP [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 4:08 pm ]
Post subject:
My thought on front first (especially with a selectable like the ARB) is that with all the grenading fronts with extra slippage, you can try an obstacle with the rear locked/ls, and front open, if it works, great, if not, wait for front to stop spinning, lock it then crawl right up.

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Author:	Fulltimer [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 5:43 pm ]
Post subject:
USAFCOP wrote: My thought on front first (especially with a selectable like the ARB) is that with all the grenading fronts with extra slippage, you can try an obstacle with the rear locked/ls, and front open, if it works, great, if not, wait for front to stop spinning, lock it then crawl right up. Unless by loosing any momentum you get stuck. Terry

Author:	Inc [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:09 pm ]
Post subject:
I think if your front end was gripping tight (locked) pulling the entire jeep uphill, you could put some serious stress on that front end. If you were in 4wd with the rear locked and you couldn't make it up, then you could lock up your front end and give it a go. But I'd prefer to put more stress on the rear end first, before the front. I don't think a locker up front in a KJ is a bad idea, I would just prefer to put more stress where it is handled better, and then put a locker up front and spread the stress out even more. Just my 2 cents.

Author:	Fulltimer [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:21 pm ]
Post subject:
Both of you are making good sense! I don't normally hit the skinny petal all that hard but sometimes things just happen. I always keep in mind about that front end. Any hops I hit the break. Terry

Author:	USAFCOP [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:39 pm ]
Post subject:
dieselenthusiast wrote: Fulltimer wrote: Both of you are making good sense! I don't normally hit the skinny petal all that hard but sometimes things just happen. I always keep in mind about that front end. Any hops I hit the break. Terry Maybe I’m taking the literature out of context, but I’ve read that the ARB locker actually makes your front differential stronger. I do not know if I would believe that, as it does nothing to reinforce the housing, if anything, where they want you to drill in the instructions is directly over where many have cracked, and my installer drilled mine further off the side of center because he recognized the weakness there. Long story short, I think a few have grenaded with ARBs in front also, the same problem with the housing will be there, you just need to be carefull with spin regardless of open or locked.