Frankenlift or straight OME for lift? Long term driveline

paullgj · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:38 pm

I've been reading everything re. a lift for about two years, now it's time to do something. I've come down to two choices: (1.) Frankenlift or (2.) OME HD springs and shocks all around using stock upper/lower mounting plates. My vehicle is a 2007 Liberty Sport, 6 spd. From what I can tell, Frankenlift might be somewhat easier to install as the strut is already assembled, but which would be best for long term driveline longevity - mainly the CV's and U-joints? I'm not so much concerned about which is higher, but which is simplest in the long run. K.I.S.S.! Currently I'm running 245/70 x 16 on stock rims and will go to 245/75.

Thanks.

Gene, in way South Texas

kskj · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:40 pm

I think you would be happy with either one. Neither one should shorten the life of the drive train. Mine has been lifted for 90,000 miles with 175,000 miles on the jeep and have replaced a couple of parts but only after a hard day or two on the trail :lol:

I don't think you will have a problem with either one.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:44 pm

I don’t have an answer to your question, but I would think the OME spring lift would keep your parts closer to factory specifications. On the other hand, there doesn’t seem to be any complaints about the Frankenlift. In my opinion, the Frankenlift is the perfect ride height.

infernicus · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:49 am

I have a 2007, Jeep Liberty, 6 speed. I have a Frankenlift, only about 6,000 miles since May.
Some people on the forum have "issues" with the Frankenlift. Honestly, I don't know the reason. I LOVE my Frankenlift. I haven't had any issues. I do recommend, if you're going the Frankenlift route. That you order four (4) rear upper isolaters. To level it out.
Also, if you get the Frankenlift, it will take longer for it to sag back to stock specs.
Another argument of Frankenlift vs. OME, is that you can save some money by doing a "clevis" lift.

To each his (or her) own.

Although, if (and when) my Frankenlift sags, (which will be a long time from now) I can do a clevis lift.

paullgj · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:00 am

infernicus wrote:

're going the Frankenlift route. That you order four (4) rear upper isolaters. To level it out.
Also, if you get the Frankenlift, it will take longer for it to sag back to stock specs.
Another argument of Frankenlift vs. OME, is that you can save some money by doing a "clevis" lift.

Hi! Thanks for the response. I do have a question about the rear isolators. With the Frankenlift as is, is the rear lower than the front?
Do the isolators return the KJ to the stock position with the rear slightly higher than the front?

Thanks.

infernicus · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:03 pm

Yeah, with the Frankenlift, the front is taller than the rear.. one isolater is ok.. two puts you level. I only have one and I have one more on each side to put in..

digglesworth · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:04 pm

im runnin ome 927/948 setup with ranchos all the way around. im pretty much maxed out in front with 3 conduit nuts and 3/8" top plate. ive got an extra isolator per side in the rear... im still debating on adding one more per side. im not a huge fan of the liberty "rake"... its sittin pretty level but i think the back will settle just a bit more so i will add the extra ones down the road.... i probably have less invested in my lift than the cost of a frankenlift. i was able to get the lift and UCA's for around what a frankenlift would cost. i had access to a spring press to assemble the fronts so that was no big deal for me. i know some shops are iffy about puttin stuff together that just walked in off the street. you should really think about swapping the UCA's for some JBA's. if you want durability and long lasting, they are the way to go. your stock ones will bang on the springs and the harsh angles will probably cause the upper ball joints to wear out we all know where that could lead. theyre a good investment if you can afford them too. and its nice to replace everything at once while you have it apart.... just puttin in my :2cents:

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:53 pm

paullgj wrote:

I do have a question about the rear isolators. With the Frankenlift as is, is the rear lower than the front?
Do the isolators return the KJ to the stock position with the rear slightly higher than the front?

I have two extra isolators on mine, and you can see that it's about level. Although, I do have 3 conduit nuts to offset the extra weight of the bumper and winch.

paullgj · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:20 pm

[quote=" you should really think about swapping the UCA's for some JBA's. if you want durability and long lasting, they are the way to go. your stock ones will bang on the springs and the harsh angles will probably cause the upper ball joints to wear out we all know where that could lead. theyre a good investment if you can afford them too. and its nice to replace everything at once while you have it apart.... just puttin in my :2cents:

[/quote]

Definitely going with the JBA UCA plus extended brakelines. Looks like I'm buying a little bit each month so it won't be a sudden jolt to the credit card all at once.

Thanks for the info.

Gene

ptsb5a · **Posted:** Sun Sep 05, 2010 12:01 am

OME790/RSX17505 + 2 conduit nuts and a 3/8 plate

OME948/RS52something or other and an extra upper iso per side

Ride is amazing. Have a strut compressor at my club's shop and used that to put the front spring/shock together myself. Been rocking the OME/Rancho gear for about 20K Kms, replaced clapped out Rusty's lift. No adverse driveline effects to date. Wheeled regularly.

Frankenlift or straight OME for lift? Long term driveline

Who is online