been a long time coming

prionic1 · **Joined:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:32 pm **Posts:** 79

Well... Today is the day! The frankenlift is going on!

tonycrd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 12:53 pm

Congrets!!

TheBartlett · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:19 pm

Have fun! I just did mine last Thursday. After having read every how-to and scrap of info about installing it here on LOST, it definitely saved me loads of time, as I was well prepared. For me the best tip was using ratchet straps to pull in the clevis when getting it bolted back up to the LCA, as well as unbolting the front sway arms. I, having never done any suspension work before, was able to complete the install without to many thrown tools, curses or bloody knuckles. Also having a good impact would helps bunches, I didn't have one a wished I did the whole time. Good luck bud.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:35 pm

4:30 PM here should of had more than enough time to do the lift by now!
So where are the pictures? :BANANA:

prionic1 · **Joined:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:32 pm **Posts:** 79

First off... I just want to say that whoever said this job was easy is a horrible person.

Next...No it's not done yet... Almost.

How the heck do you fit a torque wrench in there on the rear drivers Side uca? It seemed like a miracle that I was able to get it off. I have no idea how to get it back to safe tightness. is it possible to put the flag bolt in backwards, or is that not recommended?

Also, I have no internet at the garage I'm at so I can't spend tons of time searching
I'm on my phone. Could someone post a link to the list of torque specs?

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:16 pm

On the UCA's tighten all of the bolts tight but do not torque until you have it on the ground ( wheels on) you can get a torque wrench on it with the right extensions/swivels. Not easy but doable. Of course most times that one just gets tightened by my calculations when i install them

And yes I am a horrible person since I think installing the lift on a KJ is super easy

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:05 pm

Tom may have forgot to tell you to invest in one of the impact style swivels rather than the standard knuckle swivel - sears / craftsman or whatever, they're usually about 10 bucks

socket + impact swivel + 12" extension + 6"ish extension + torque wrench is roughly the right combo to have the torque wrench in the roughly 7 inches of space that you'll need to work in

it's a pain, and that's a tough pull too since with the extensions and the swivel, you lose about 1/3rd of your torque output and you're doing it with one hand since you usually end up holding the extension down with your other

sorry..

but yes the drivers side will make you cuss

the passenger side will make you cuss the drivers side for being such a bear

TheBartlett · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:57 pm

I agree getting that drivers rear UCA bolt torqued was a major pain. Like JeepinJarhead said, a stack of extension, swivel and torque wrench is the way to go. Just remember to make sure when you loosen/tighten the bolt that the flag(do not not the proper term) attached to the bolt does not press against the solid lines around there; I almost had a bad day by not seeing the interference but saw it in time to stop. Also I had to loosen the brackets holding the metal lines via the bracket accessed from the under the wheel well, it helped me. I also, since I did not have an impact wrench or cheater pipe, used a large 15/16 box end wrench on my ratchet to gain more mechanical advantage when loosening the bolts, and to get them fairly tight for torquing. Besides the UCA bolts, the only major pain wiould be getting the clevis bolted back up. But as mentioned before, a good ratchet strap will make short work of it. Hope things come together for you. Any more questions just ask, the experienced members will get you sorted out in short order.

Also, per the "Instructions" I received with the lift kit, here are the torque specs:

Front Suspension:
Four Upper shock mounting nuts: 80-ft/lbs
Clevis Bracket bolt at bottom of shock: 65ft/lbs
Lower ball joint nut: 60ft/lbs
Clevis bracket at lower control arm: 110ft/lbs
Lower stabilizer link at lower control arm: 100ft/lbs

Rear Suspension:
Shocks(Upper): 80ft/lbs
Shocks(Lower): 85ft/lbs
Rear Stabilizer bolts at lower suspension arm: 73ft/lbs
Upper Control arm: 90ft/lbs
Lower control arm: 125ft/lbs
Pinch bolt on top of differential: 70ft/lbs.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:40 pm

yeah those brake lines will slow ya down both getting the "flag" to pass under them and getting the bolt out from behind them on removal

there's a 10mm? bolt in the fenderwell that you can remove to give that front drivers line a bit more movement that helps

once, or if, the lower half of the suspension is back together, clevis etc, if you put a jack under the lca and jack the vehicle till it starts to try to lift off the jackstand, the UCA should fall right into the knuckle with your hand then you get the nut on, ease it back down, wack the uca with your hand it'll seat down, finish putting the nut and carry on with the install and retorque on the ground

I use the straps of the ratchet straps to tie things up, that's about it

prionic1 · **Joined:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:32 pm **Posts:** 79

Well I guess it is obvious by now, but the lift did get done. Just took us a rediculous amount of time. Guess we are just not mechanics. Hahahaha. Anyways, haven't gotten around to putting up pics as you guys know. Soon. It needs new tires though.

Few things though. Lot's of squeeky going on. I assume that either we tightened too tight before lowering then torquing on the ground, OR just needs to settle in. The steering knuckles are hitting the plastic spacers on the bottom of the struts. Not sure if that's an issue. But there are for sure marks left on the spacer proving contact and I can hear a slight "knock" ever now and then.

Also, regarding alignment, I took it to a shop and they seemed to be able to get it aligned with no complaints or issues. They just called me back in a few hours and said it was ready to go. It drives in a straight line just fine as far as I can tell. However, when I turn and start to get the wheels turned far close to lock, I can feel resistance for the vehicle moving forward or backward and when the wheels are at full lock, left or right, I can definitely feel the tire rubber "grinding" on the ground and there is some definite wear on the front tires. So maybe they did a crap job or the lift just needs to settle a bit.

I did only install one extra set of isolator pads in the rear. I am going to put another in there some time soon when I get a little bit of time.

TheBartlett · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:54 pm

Great to here the lift's in without to many issues. I know what you mean about the strange squeaks, pops, and odd sounds coming after the lifts done. I am on my third week with my Franky installed, and I still hear the occasional noise that makes me take notice, but it's all part of it settling. I will say that after taking it for a 300 mile round trip run last night, I did notice how much better it feels after just a few weeks. Like others here have said, it needs to be flexed and worked a bit to help it settle, and to re-torque everything after awhile. I did notice last weekend when I went through and checked my hardware that some had needed to be snugged up a little again, such as the top strut bolt nuts, as well as the clevis bolts. Not much but they did need a little. Anyway, I have not noticed, after the alignment, any difference in tire wear though, but its still to early to tell. Well, here's hoping you get your tires upgraded soon, it'll all come together then.

prionic1 · **Joined:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:32 pm **Posts:** 79

So... I was wondering if one of the more experienced members could chime in on the alignment issue that I may or may not have. Currently when driving straight the vehicle "tracks" straight. It doesn't pull left or right, however, when turning slow tight corners I can definitely feel that the tires are "grinding" on the pavement. I think that when the steering is close to full lock either left or right, the tire on the outside of the turn is getting negative camber I think. The wear on the tires is certainly on the outer edge of the tread.

Now when I first put her down after installing the lift, there was a TON of negative camber and I drove it around the block a really short distance to see if it would be drivable to the alignment shop. I felt that it was not and it was grinding the tires just driving a straight line pretty bad. That chewed the tires a bit. So, I did a basic home alignment just to get it drivable to the shop. That worked out and then they aligned it. But, the above issue still persists.

I did only install one extra set of spring isolators in the rear so the back is sitting a slight amount below the front, but not much. I intend on putting and extra set in there some time soon.

Would you recommend that I take it to another alignment shop and have another go at it? Perhaps at a stealership because they know where the specs "should" be?

Also, with the way that it's driving now, would you consider it to be dangerous to drive on snow and ice?

Many thanks ahead!!!

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:12 pm

Any alignment shop should know the specs they are the same as stock so ??
Just find one that knows what they are doing instead of some who only think they know :wink:

prionic1 · **Joined:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:32 pm **Posts:** 79

Hehe... thanks Tom. Yeah I suppose that's right. I just wasn't sure if there was some sort of thing that just went along with getting a lift such as a slight alignment difference or something. I'll shop around for a good alignment place and get it reworked. :mrgreen:

TheBartlett · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:02 am

A word of warning. When I was calling around to different shop for quotes on an alignment, I had no less than 3 shops flat out tell me "no", they would not attempt the alignment due to the aftermarket lift I installed. They said there was no way they could get it back in factory spec, no matter what I told them otherwise. I finally found a Firestone that was more than willing to do it. The guy at the desk was in disbelief that the other places refused to do it, and on of them was another Firestone! So like Tommudd said, you have to shop around a bit and find a place that is confident and experienced to do the job right.

prionic1 · **Joined:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:32 pm **Posts:** 79

Well that's just it... I think I own one of probablly no more than five lifted liberties in the state of WA. I don't thing any of the alignment places here have every seen a lifted liberty before. Maybe I'll give a call down to the ARB guys a couple miles away. Perhaps they know someone who knows what they are doing.

been a long time coming

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