Front diff. axel leaks

Jeepin Al · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 9:28 am

Ok guys and gals I need your help with this one.

I had 4.10 gears installed in my modified front diff. All new bearings and seals where installed at the same time. Within the first two hundred miles the right side axel shaft started to leak, real bad, to the point where almost all the diff oil drained out. Found out that the right side axel shaft, (original to the KJ) had a groove worn in it from the old seal. A new axel shaft later, and around 100 miles its leaking again.

It goes back to OK 4WD next week, these guys are really putting up with a lot from me, to get fixed again. I had them put in the gears (never did that before, didn't want to start now) and new front case, along with the HD JE Reel half shafts and cv's.

Looking at this, the JE Reel HD shafts are real stiff, hard to bend at the cv. My 4 inch lift (+/-), good (bad) half shaft angle and the stiffness of the new half shaft, could this pull down on the axel far enough to burn up the seal to make it leak? One explaination I got. Don't forget it has to pull down on those new bearings.

Any way I have the guy getting me the seal part number so I can cross reference it with other seals. One manufacture has a series of seals with a third lip. Take a look at some of the seals out there the edge is u-shaped, the inner edge allows just a little oil to pass thru lubing the seal so it doesn't burn out. Some HD seals have three lips forming a W.

Any advice will help. We even discussed that maybe the new housing is bent upwards forcing the axel shaft to ride hard on the bottom of the bearing and seal. I will test this theory this weekend by unbolting the right side mount bolts and see if the axel tube, pulls away from the mounts meaning the axel tube was force to an upward angle when installed, and I will try to measure the axel tube to see if it is bent.

Problems problems. Someone told me "just put a straight axel in" Too much like work number one, too much money number two, and if I wanted a straight axel I would by an old Cherokee!

Thanks

Al

chemguy · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:24 pm

Sorry to hear that Al.

Doubt this would cause the problem, but it seems that lifts in excess of 2.5" - 3" would require a redesigned lower control arm. I say this, because to the naked eye, the further you push that sucker down, the closer it seems the strut assembly gets pulled towards the body of the Jeep.

As for your issues, I suspect a warped axle housing. Just a guess.

Jeepin Al · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:43 pm

Yea, as the lift gets higher, the spring gets closer to the "body" at full droop you may even get some spring to body contact. This is very evident while you install the lift.

Al

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 2:09 pm

"Someone told me "just put a straight axel in" Too much like work number one, too much money number two, and if I wanted a straight axel I would by an old Cherokee!"

I Love the work you are doing for the KJ and the IFS so don't take this the wrong way but...
How much have you got invested into that IFS now? Fabricated upper control arms, aftermarket LBJ's, diff housing, gears, lockers, lift parts, return trips to fix it, etc? And still after all that you are not dialed in and may still want to go higher leading to more of the same problems. How much more will you spend to perfect the IFS?

I say Build it like Jeep should have. It would have been great if Jeep originally built a SFA Liberty Then changed it to IFS after a couple model years. Somehow I bet they would have sold quite a few to the "SFA only Jeeps" folks and others that liked their Cherokees but just needed/wanted a new Jeep or had outgrown the Wranglers/CJ’s. BTW, I know modding a SFA Jeep leads to problems also (got an XJ so I know 1st hand) but it Has been done before so it does make it easier.
Well, as usual, blah blah blah...yadda yadda yadda...... I just won't be happy w/ IFS until it can Survive 35's and Lots of abuse But I DO still want an IFS KJ and I Will continue to work on mine. I just know that I Will also be SFA-ing one in the future so I can move on and enjoy a more reliable trail vehicle.
:wink:

Jeepin Al · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 4:28 pm

No I didn't take it wrong, but it appears that I may have open a can of worms! I love the old Cherokees, I just couldn’t find one in good enough shape, so I went with a brand spanking new Liberty. I have come to love my Liberty, even when the LJ came out, even though temped, I did not trade the Liberty in. Maybe a diesel LJ Rubi, than I will be at the dealer first thing (sorry KJ, diesel fumes make me horney). I did not mean to disrespect Cherokees and all you straight guys out (said with a lisp) out there. I have always said, a Liberty is a Liberty, independent front axel, and that’s the way mine will stay for a while anyway.

I have thought long and hard about a swap. For one, I don’t like how the tires sticks pass the fenders on most conversions I have seen. If I were going to do a straight axel conversion, here is the way I would do it….

Buy a Clayton (or who ever) long arm kit with adjustable arms for a new TJ
Cut the belly plate up to mount to the KJ “frame”.
Weld a channel or angle like I have now the length of the frame.
Bolt the revised belly plate up to the frame.
Get old full size Wagoneer Dana 44 axels (non-Quadra-trac, the rears are off set to one side). Put lockers in them and cut them to fit the KJ’s width. Install new warn hubs.
Cut the leaf spring perches off, and weld new coil spring holders on the axels, and new shock mounts. Weld the arm mounts on the axels.

So now, you just spent close to say $4000.00. Not done yet.

Next you need the SYE (242 not ready just yet), two new driveshafts, longer brake lines (now available) and the steering. As the ones who have performed this, the steering will be the toughest. I would look into an old Bronco box and leave the OEM steering (now shorter to match the axels) from the Wagoneer on the front axel. Expect a bump steer. I had one, it would wander all over the place.

I really thought about this, but, with all the “betterering” I have done over the years, I found that it just wasn’t worth it at this point. I really haven’t spent much money to this date, maybe around 2-3 K if you figure in; not paying retail for anything (I have my ways), including the tires and rims and the things I broke over the last approx. 5 years. Time is another story. I spent a lot time welding, cutting and wrenching- a lot of time, so much so, my kids didn’t know who I was for a while, and the wife forgot she married me. They thought I was just some guy who lived in the garage and ate dinner in the house. However, if you have ever had the pleasure of working with me in the Jeepin’ By Al garage, you would see that I really enjoy tinkering. The only thing I really regret wrenching and four wheelin my KJ, is that my hotrod pickem’ up truck has been placed on the back burner. That’s ’57 International, 400 small block Chevy, 400hp, turbo 350, independent front suspension with power disc brakes and power steering. Ar Ar Ar!

Now that I said my piece or peace, I will keep trying to better the IFA on the Liberty, why because its there and I like it!

Al

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:13 pm

Al, WHEN I get back to Jersey to visit family and friends, I Will look you up and stop by your garage for a beer and some busted knuckles.

I too Want a IFS KJ and I plan on keeping my current KJ IFS but I also want a KJ that will work as well as my XJ does now which is why I am planning on finding and buying an 02 KJ (for the better trans) to convert to SFA. (Unless I can find a salvageable CRD to convert) (btw, I took NO offense to any of your XJ statements) :wink:

Front diff. axel leaks

Who is online