The Engine saga, new engine issues.

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 1:16 pm

Well a few weeks ago I posted on here about the jeep being dead in the lot and suspecting the fuel pump as the culprit. After opening up the tank and checking the pump and pump filter, testing pressure at the fuel rail, checking the plugs, pulling the valve covers and inspecting the timing chain, I gave up. Towed it down to a local guy, waited about a week and heard nothing. Called him and he said I was 1/2 quart low on oil.. yea.. ok? So I just said to hell with it and took it to the stealership, well after they "diagnosed it" they called and said the engine had slung a rod and it'd be $8,000 to replace the engine with a new one. So my issue went from having a jeep that wouldnt start to one that wouldnt even turn over!

So I left the dealership and carried it to another one man mechanic, wanted $800 to swap the engine. Found a new engine on accurateengines.com for 1,999.00 New heads, new cylinders, balanced crank, valves, springs, cams, ect. So I got the engine back in, and along with a new water pump, hoses, plugs, motor mounts, intake manifold, ect.

The mechanic put in the standard ethylene glycol green coolant, and when I got it home the coolant was boiling in the tank! temp was perfect and in spec on the guage. thought I might have some air in it so I bled the coolant on the upper elbow on engine, and opened the coolant resevior then let it run for 10-15 min. Even after that it would boil after shutting it off.

Does the G-05 coolant have anything to do with this? and should I switch back to the G-05?

Also I get trouble codes of Evap system (Gross leak/ No Flow), and evap system (small Leak), fuel cap is tight, hoses are connected. PCV valve? additionally my fuel mileage dropped drammatically. like from 15-16 avg to 12-13.

Oh and from what I figure mechanic one shot the ether to try and isolate the not starting issue, because cylinder #4 was in about 40 pieces. Connecting rod was fine, along with all the other internals.

RED_KJ_666 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 4:19 pm

Is your fan working, and did you change the Thermostat?

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:14 pm

Yes and yes.

ridenby · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:29 pm

Have you used a thermometer in the coolant?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:17 pm

1st the coolant temp sensor does not read air termps so it can read normal on the gauage but your overheating due to low coolant.Plus the temp guage is a dummy gauge anyways and reads at the 1/2 mark when the coolant is between 178 degrees and 229 degrees.

While it's "boiling" carefully feel the upper and lower hoses,they both better be very hot(almost can not touch them).If not you have air still in the system of the t-stat is bad.Possible they routed the serp belt wrong also making the waterpump spin backwards.Running actual Ethylene Gylcol is okay,and can even mic with HOAT but must be changed out every 1-2 years no matter what.It does not like alloy heads and a iron block and tends to turn into acid pretty quick.

For the EVAP they may have not connected something back up,easily missed.

For the mpg's you will get bad mpg's on a rebuilt engine till it's broken in and the EVAP codes could have something to do with that low mpg's also.

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:46 pm

Since i have driven it a few times, no boiling that i have seen. I topped off the coolant and it hasnt been an issue. Mechanic recommend a new rad cap. Thoughts? I still smell some coolant when shutting down, possibly a cap problem too? Ill check on the hoses here in a few minutes. Along with the belt routing, he should get it right though seeig as its displayed on the rad cover.

As always TJ, i appreciate your guidance, and thoughts. Thanks.

Hood297 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:27 am

Well i tried the rad hose test and i was able to keep my hand on it for 2-4 seconds before i wimped out. Didnt seem excessively hot. The thermostat is 195 isn't it? Ive seen some 160's, should i switch to that? It is cold here so the cooling issues could become more prevalent once it gets in the 100+ during the summer. When i say cold i mean 40's

Hood297 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:27 am

Well i tried the rad hose test and i was able to keep my hand on it for 2-4 seconds before i wimped out. Didnt seem excessively hot. The thermostat is 195 isn't it? Ive seen some 160's, should i switch to that? It is cold here so the cooling issues could become more prevalent once it gets in the 100+ during the summer. When i say cold i mean 40's

Hood297 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:29 am

Well i tried the rad hose test and i was able to keep my hand on it for 2-4 seconds before i wimped out. Didnt seem excessively hot. The thermostat is 195 isn't it? Ive seen some 160's, should i switch to that? It is cold here so the cooling issues could become more prevalent once it gets in the 100+ during the summer. When i say cold i mean 40's

Hood297 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:29 am

Well i tried the rad hose test and i was able to keep my hand on it for 2-4 seconds before i wimped out. Didnt seem excessively hot. The thermostat is 195 isn't it? Ive seen some 160's, should i switch to that? It is cold here so the cooling issues could become more prevalent once it gets in the 100+ during the summer. When i say cold i mean 40's

1996xj · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:08 pm

hood 297 check and make sure the thermostat isn't installed backwards ! Yes I know from personal exp. you can install the kj theromstat backwards and the coolant will bubble out of the resv. and will overheat !!!

Hood297 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:30 pm

Ok after driving around for a while it is no longer boiling. Put on a mew 16psi rad cap just for laughs. I drove it for about 20 min at highway and city speeds the immediately got out and checked the temp with an infared thermometer.
Upper radiator hose:210
Coolant tank:215
Passenger side head: 238

Hood297 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:51 pm

And while running at idle everything is in the 225-235 range, once i shut it off and start venting the cap it starts "boiling" again

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 5:55 pm

Hood297 wrote:

Ok after driving around for a while it is no longer boiling. Put on a mew 16psi rad cap just for laughs. I drove it for about 20 min at highway and city speeds the immediately got out and checked the temp with an infared thermometer.
Upper radiator hose:210
Coolant tank:215
Passenger side head: 238

Should have a 18psi cap installed.

2006 KJ · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:50 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Hood297 wrote:

Ok after driving around for a while it is no longer boiling. Put on a mew 16psi rad cap just for laughs. I drove it for about 20 min at highway and city speeds the immediately got out and checked the temp with an infared thermometer.
Upper radiator hose:210
Coolant tank:215
Passenger side head: 238

Should have a 18psi cap installed.

for what it's worth... i just bought a new cap for mine today because mine is stinking like coolant (although not losing any).

hopefully it'll fix my problem.

Hood297 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:29 pm

The cap that was on there stock said it was 16psi, and thats also what the stant cross reference called for.

2006, mine also has the smell once i shut it off. Cant figure it out. Are you using the green ethylene glycol?

Do those temp readings seem too hot?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:52 pm

Hood297 wrote:

The cap that was on there stock said it was 16psi, and thats also what the stant cross reference called for.

2006, mine also has the smell once i shut it off. Cant figure it out. Are you using the green ethylene glycol?

Do those temp readings seem too hot?

That's odd because my stock cap was 18psi.

Well with the 195 degree t-stat it starts to open at about 195 degrees,does not fully open till 218 degrees and the electric fan does not turn on until 219 degrees.The temp gauge will not move past halfway till the temps raise above 229 degrees.If the cap will not hold it's rated psi it will cause the coolant to boil since it's that pressure that raises the boiling point.

Do you have access to a cheap scanner that displays some live data? If so it will display the ECT sensor,just read what the ECT is reading,it should not raise above 219 degrees(fan kicks on).

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:59 pm

triple checked and both the old stock and the new cap are 16psi. My decent scanner (innova 125$) wont show live data, or I dont know how to make it anyway. It will display freeze frame data when a trouble code is retrieved.

the temp gauge never goes past the halfway mark, it barely gets dead even with the half way hash mark.

This morning when I got to work I had coolant coming out of the front driver portion of the engine bay, all the hoses looked good, couldn't find where it was coming from. There was no steaming from the engine, so I doubt a head gasket was harmed. when I restart it, it doesn't leak a drop, even once its up to normal operating temp. Coolant is low in the tank, so I'm really confused. Oil level is on spec, and the oil is nice and amber.

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:25 pm

Well i found the leaking issue, has a pinhole crack in the radiator near the upper rad hose. Might as well rebuilt the tranny and have a new jeep...

LeatherNeck97 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:40 pm

Hood, I had my engine replaced last year. I still have the EVAP codes. I thought that was odd because all of the EVAP stuff is way back above the rear axle. I got 3 different codes myself. I didn't have radiator issues til I replaced my motor. Mine had a crack in the same area. I got a replacement at NAPA and on my 3rd this year. Luckily they have lifetime warranties on them. 2 of the NAPA ones were leaking between the tank and fins and the other one had a crack in the same place as the original radiator. Thought that is strange that with and engine change we had problems with the radiator and EVAP system. Did you get rid of the EVAP codes. If so, how did you do it.

The Engine saga, new engine issues.

Who is online