As the bug said, with the proper welder and proper person anything is possible
the simplest and best adaptable fit method of mounting "mismatched" equipment will be to build a mounting system which bolts to the receiving vehicle rather than some 'rigamaroo' being welded to the vehicles chassis the Kj's like most vehicles have a boxing in the front |_| being two 'with the length' channels and one 'with the width' channel which form the front rigidity (complementing other components)
most of the bumpers designed for the KJ aftermarket have had roughly 4 bolts on each 'with the length' and 4 to 6 'with the width' portion - really little different than how simple box spring elevation frames are constructed for beds - just with two extra angles so that the length follows the curvature of the 'with the length' portion of the chassis
for examples sake, can use two pieces of 3/8 to 1/4" steel 90* angle pieces for the 'with the length' portion and two 3/8th to 1/4" C-channel portions to encase the 'with the width' section roughly in line with the left, and right two slots in the grill
remove the endcaps on the chassis (where the towhook bolt access is) make a "nutsert" rail out of a strip of 1/8th-3/8th steel that will fit inside the channel, drill appropriate sized holes in the strip and tack weld nuts to the strip in the locations you plan to drill holes in the mount to bolt it to the vehicle - your C-channel portions will encapsulate the width of the vehicle section of the chassis, find at least two good spots per C-channel piece for ~ 6" long 'biggin' bolts
with appropriate boxing and reinforcement and original support modification of the new bumper you can pretty much fit anything you want onto the new bolt on structure - once the bumpers been modified and fitted to your liking you can weld the bumper to the new mounts and the bumper will be able to be removed if necessary for repair or maintenance issues
there's no one particular "correct" way to do it - the ARB uses a 2 or 3 piece bolt together design - mine uses the angle and C channel mount construction - both methods are stronger than the vehicle itself - the 2" hitch mounting design is a good start but imho tying into the front 'cross member' is crucial in giving the mounting system for something which has a potential for impact or any stress other than straight back or straight out - simply using the length of the vehicle sections for a mount allow the bumper to act as a lever and has a high potential for causing some big and twisty problems
look forward to seeing how your project idea turns out
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